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Rear Shock Torque Settings

11 posts in this topic

Are the torque settings in the manual correct for the rear shock? The manual says 40 ft-lb for the top and 38 ft-lb for the botton. When I was torqued the top to 40 ft-lb the nut stripped. I check my wrench (snap-on) and I had the correct setting.

Thanks,

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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I don’t have my manual handy , but if that’s what it says then that’s what it is IMO. Forty pounds doesn’t seem excessive for what is probably a 10 mm bolt (??). I’ve had mine off three or four times and torqued to spec. w/ no breakage.

Maybe the locknut was already cross threaded.

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I know what you mean, some of the torques do seem excessive and I was a bit leary myself on a couple. I do know one thing, I am not impressed with the Yami Hardware and smallish head size on some bolts (10mm?) Easy to round off. Honda hardware is of a better quality in my opinion.

G

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Then we have a partial pecking order, because the Yamahama stuff definitely trumps KX fasteners. 8mm heads on 8 mm bolts where most on the YZ seem to have 10 mm heads.

The Yamaha stuff I’ve had to get at the fastener supply place has been much easier to come by, some of the (forever disappearing) fasteners on my old KX 500 were factory only due to the small heads and flanges.

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I have found out a couple things since my post. First, 40 ft-lbs is a lot for a 10 MM 1.25 bolt. That is normaly a 25 ft-lb torque. But, it as a lot of threads so it will hold 40 but not 45. I checked my wrench and it was just a little off. The botton shock bolt I am not going to torque to 38 ft-lbs. That is aluminum threads and I do not want to replace the part. I torqued it to 35 ft-lbs but I did it in steps and used plenty of lock tight.

KX Note:

I have owned a CR250 two KX250's and now my personnel favorite YZ426.

The Honda and Yamaha have very similair build quality. I may even give the edge to Yamaha. That said the KX is not that far behind. The 99 KX250 was a step up from the 98 KX250.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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Are you using a six point socket or a twelve point?

This will make all the difference in the world! More surface area touching the head.

I actually stripped a bolt on my skid plate and now everytime I have to take it off I "HAVE" to use a six point.

But anyway I started using them on everything............at least on my baby!

G4

$.02

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ride BLUE

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I only use 6 points sockets. Well ok, 90% of the time.

In my case I stripped the nut for the top bolt on the shock. It stripped at 45 ft-lbs. My torque wrench is a little off. I have a tap and die so I cleaned up the bolt and put a new locking nut on.

Now I need to find a snap-on shop to get my wrench serviced.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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Just for clarification. I stripped the threads on the nut not the sides.

Just curious, how did you strip your drain bolt? The torque on that is like 15 ft-lbs. You could torque that with a 12 point and not strip it.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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Rick,

Yea, I torqued the drain bolt to 15lbs. On my next oil change I used a 12 point craftsmen socket and it just rounded right off. What a nightmare! The bike was brand new! To top it off the first extractor snapped off right up the middle of the bolt. What a bitch! I had to use a 1/4" cobalt bit to drill it out, cursing all the way, praying that I didnt drill into the case threads and then use next size extractor. It still felt like it didnt want to break free but after applying careful pressure ....waaaalaaaa. My new rule is ..use a 12 point only when you dont have enough space to get in there with a 6 point. My oil drain bolt was torqued to 15lbs but "froze" over the course of a weekends riding.

Mike

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