fork tool question

Can any of you suggest a good place to buy the tool used to disassemble the forks to change seals? I have a seal driver but I need the tool that holds the innards while you spin them out. Thanks in advance...

If your just replacing seals you dont need a special tool. Just remove the cap, slide the tube down, then press the spring down and there is a nut under the cap, thats hiding by the spring, put a wrench on it and the cap, and your done. Remove the spring, and it takes a good tug to get the tubes apart but no problem. oh yeah the dampening rod will want to slide out just be careful you dont drop it on the flooor and twek it.

Doug

Mike, you can order the cartridge holder tool from White Bros, Race Tech, and many other suspension shops. I recently made a custom one that works great. Like Doug said, you don't need to remove the cartridge to change seals, but it is a good idea to do a complete disassembly and cleaning on a regular basis, like everytime you change seals.

Doug left out some very important info. You must pry down the dust wiper and remove the clip before pulling the tubes apart.

oooops your right about the wiper & clip , thats why a person should check the book instead of spoutin off from the top of their head.

Doug

Here are a couple things that helped me out;

1. Clean the whole fork thoroughly before you disassamble it.

2. Disassemble the whole fork, cartridge and all. This will allow you to drain ALL of the old oil.

3. If you don't want to buy a cartridge holding tool you can use an impact driver and a 14mm hex head socket.

4. Remember to first loosen the base valve before you take off the fork cap.

5. Find a 17mm or 5/8 "thin" wrench for use on the nut located under the cap bolt (see manual). A regular craftsman wrench is to thick.

6. Use a heavy plastic bag to help slide on the new seal (good pictures in the manual)

7. Motion Pro fork oil level tool is worth the $30

8. When you replace the base valve use locktight

9. Before you slide the dust seal back into place stuff as much waterproof grease as you can up next to the seal and clip. This will help keep dirt and grime out of the seal. Oh, I used Silkolene RG2 (great stuff!)

Good Luck!

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender

Good tips JJ. Here's a few more comments:

3. That's a 14mm hex driver, not socket.

5. I ground down a 17mm Craftsman wrench.

6. A little "baggie" or a piece of "Saran wrap" works great.

8. I never locktite the base valve, but I do carefully torque it.

9. I don't do this because it would be a mess to clean at next service, but I do use a light coating of seal grease on the seal and wiper.

Driver, socket....ehh! :)

I don't work for PJ1 but I wish I did at times. They make the best all purpose cleaner I have ever found, Super Cleaner, Industrial Grade. It makes cleaning up any mess a snap! Really try it! :D It doesn't even hurt plastic.

I need to collect commision...

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JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender

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