Pro's and Con's - 2004 YZ450F

Here is what I would suggest as this is what I did with my 04 when I got it... Install a Stealthy Flywheel weight (13oz), cost was about a $100. Make the gearing 14-51. A tapered head pipe if you can find one (I can't remember who the mfg was that I got mine from), run Water Wetter or a good coolant product or addative and stuff a radiator cap with a 1.5 bar pressuer rating instead of the 1.1 bar that comes with it. (I think I stole one from a KTM as it fit and ran a higher rating) and make a small puck jug for the overflow, it doesn't need to be much bigger than about 6-8oz in size and can be easily mounted with the overflow tube run into it (don't forget to vent it with a small pin hole).

I rode mine in just about every condition imaginable and the only time I had an issue was in 90 plus weather and having to be just off idle in 1st for a couple miles. It would dump a little bit of coolant, but that was what the puck tank was for....

The flywheel weigth will mellow the nasty hit down and turn it into a pretty amazing traction monster, the 51 toth made first a little lower which helps in the low speed stuff and it didn't take a huge amount of the top, I would say it dropped 6-8 miles an hour off top speed, but the stock bike top speed was in the upper 70s anyway so not a big issue unless you are ricky racer and like to go as fast as you can on open fire roads....

Thanks for the suggestions and everything. Is there any chance you could take a picture of your overflow tank, I am just interested in what yours looks like.

I've had my 03 yz450 for two years now and finally have it to where it's great for trail-riding/singletrack. In stock form it is way too tall for the tight woods. I added the 8oz DrD FWW first and that helped some, but the biggest help for me was going 13/52 on the sprockets. I've also added the Clarke tank, lowered the stock pegs, higher bars, Pirelli MT43 and a WR 18" wheel in the rear, handguards, the zipty APS and a kickstand and I'm loving it.

I contemplated going to the rekluse or the wr450 gears, but after gearing down the sprockets I'm right where I need to be. Not to mention how much cheaper it was!

APS? Accelerator Pump? Was kind of iffy on that acronym. Yeah, I think I am going to put a heavy flywheel weight in and change the sprokets to 13/52 or 14/51. It might already have different sprokets, according to the ad.

I am just very excited to see this bike on Sunday, and hopefully get it. I got big plans, but not a lot of money right now, so hopefully I can get it to my single track riding needs without a lot of money at first, will be my project, to set up a bike for me... Which means a lot of suspension work, and springs do not come cheap.

Sorry, sold the bike in 2006. If I remember rigth I used a small bottle that was about 1-1/2" diameter and 6-8" long, drilled a hole in the top so the overflow tube would fit tight and drilled a second 1/16" hole next to it for a vent. I placed the bottle right next to the radiator and actually ziptied it to the louver and agains the frame.... Worked like a champ and you could look right down at it and see the fluid level, always knew if the rad had fluid in it or not.

Make sure the hose extends all the way to the bottom of the container, as the bike cools after riding it will actuall draw any expelled fluid back into the radiator. It's just like a puck tank on a car...

Sorry, sold the bike in 2006. If I remember rigth I used a small bottle that was about 1-1/2" diameter and 6-8" long, drilled a hole in the top so the overflow tube would fit tight and drilled a second 1/16" hole next to it for a vent. I placed the bottle right next to the radiator and actually ziptied it to the louver and agains the frame.... Worked like a champ and you could look right down at it and see the fluid level, always knew if the rad had fluid in it or not.

Make sure the hose extends all the way to the bottom of the container, as the bike cools after riding it will actuall draw any expelled fluid back into the radiator. It's just like a puck tank on a car...

Nice deal, I will have to rig something together. Doesn't sound difficult at all, I was just wondering where you mounted it. I figured it was where you said, just wasn't totally sure. :banana:

i ride an 04 and love it. I try to ride twice a week mostly trails and have had no problems. keep on top the maint and it will be fine. it is reliable, has gobs of power and starts easy.

yes it will lug at nothing speed in second if you like. i don't run a flywheel weight and find the power is super smooth and torquey. it wails, but if you are smooth with the gas it is smooth with the power. also, i dropped the front forks 6-7mm and it made a world of difference on front end grip (i am 6'3 220 so take that in account)

Scratch the electric start, sounds to me like it sucks on the WR and that the YZ is an easy kick.

Brandon, it is absolutely not correct to say that the e-start sucks on the WR. That simply is not true at all. It hit the button and the bike fires right up every single time. What's so bad about that.

Now.. It took a a little while to truly figure out how to jet and setup the carb properly. Its not hard, its just that you need to pay attention.

A properly jetting wr/yz will start on the first kick 75-80% of the time if you do it right. Here's what I do.

1. put it in neutral.

2. kick through the bike easily until you feel the kick start lever stop. You'll feel the pressure.

3. if you can, move the kick start lever just a hair beyond this point.

4. raise the kick start lever back to its highest point.

5. no gas or throttle

6. hot start lever if the bike is really hot

7. smooth steady and firm kick downward (not too fast). Be somewhat gentle with it.

the bike will light right up. It take me less than 10 seconds to do this with a properly jetted carb (which is the key).

My daughters have two strokes and I agree never to use the button when they are around. I do this all the time and its no problem. For almost all of 2009, my battery was too weak to hold a charge and I kicked all year long. It was no big deal.

On the other hand, my rght thumb can hit the little grey button and do the same thing.

If you are an offroad rider, an autoclutch negates the need for estart.

Brandon, it is absolutely not correct to say that the e-start sucks on the WR. That simply is not true at all. It hit the button and the bike fires right up every single time. What's so bad about that.

Now.. It took a a little while to truly figure out how to jet and setup the carb properly. Its not hard, its just that you need to pay attention.

A properly jetting wr/yz will start on the first kick 75-80% of the time if you do it right. Here's what I do.

1. put it in neutral.

2. kick through the bike easily until you feel the kick start lever stop. You'll feel the pressure.

3. if you can, move the kick start lever just a hair beyond this point.

4. raise the kick start lever back to its highest point.

5. no gas or throttle

6. hot start lever if the bike is really hot

7. smooth steady and firm kick downward (not too fast). Be somewhat gentle with it.

the bike will light right up. It take me less than 10 seconds to do this with a properly jetted carb (which is the key).

My daughters have two strokes and I agree never to use the button when they are around. I do this all the time and its no problem. For almost all of 2009, my battery was too weak to hold a charge and I kicked all year long. It was no big deal.

On the other hand, my rght thumb can hit the little grey button and do the same thing.

If you are an offroad rider, an autoclutch negates the need for estart.

Yeah, I have no say if the electric start is good on those bikes or not, that is just word from another user, that I read a comment by.

I have never owned a kick start only bike, so I will probably be rubbish at first. My current bike, 2002 VOR 450 EN-E, has electric start and a kick start, and I cannot kick start it cold for the life of me. But it has a forward kicker, which could probably explain it. I had never had problems with two strokes and the regular kick start, just hoping I can power through it with my bad right knee. Still have most of the strength in it, we will see. Glad a four stroke kick isn't as snappy as a two.

Also, thank you for the instructions, it might come in handy later on. I know every bike has its little tricks to easy starting, not always easy to figure out.

Now, I was wondering if anyone knew how far they can go on a tank. I am talking about the stock 7 liter tank of course.

so looks like the way to go is with a fly wheel weight, and slight change in gearing. as it is a lot cheaper than the rekluse auto clutch. just wander if there is any major advantage to one or the other... all of my riding is on trails and fire roads.

betts

That is a stock muffler on that bike. Not a Dr D. Header looks stock also.

so looks like the way to go is with a fly wheel weight, and slight change in gearing. as it is a lot cheaper than the rekluse auto clutch. just wander if there is any major advantage to one or the other... all of my riding is on trails and fire roads.

betts

Yeah, that is all I ride to, single track and fire roads. Occasional WFO (Wide :banana: Open) field and straightaway.

That is a stock muffler on that bike. Not a Dr D. Header looks stock also.

Yeah, it looked like the stock muffler when I was looking at some pictures side by side. It may be an older picture, you never know. I am hoping there is a Dr. D full exhaust on it, lol. That would be one less thing I would buy, although I would rather it be a quieter exhaust, not a fan of closing down trails.

Well, was supposed to meet today, but the other guy had to work... on his day off... I dislike waiting, lol.

Wondering if he is a fire fighter, or forest service, since there are around 9 forest fires going here right now, damn thunderstorms in summer with very dry forests, not a good thing... Flash flood wasn't fun either, still haven't fixed yard... that will be awhile yet.

Hopefully tomorrow I get to look at this bike and hopefully get it now. :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now