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platt

handlebar settings 2010yz 450

14 posts in this topic

Which is the best position on the t/clamps for soft sand riding,the forward or rear hole.Bars in forward front wants to dig a bit I feel as weight is forward on bike.What I think (sand bars back holes)(hardpack bars in forward setting).Need advice which is best.

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It all depends on your torso size and riding style and how your suspension is set up. Handlebar positioning is like the rest of your YZ's controls: all personal preference.

I've sat on some friends' bikes, and they feel goofy to me, as does mine to them.

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Which is the best position on the t/clamps for soft sand riding,the forward or rear hole.Bars in forward front wants to dig a bit I feel as weight is forward on bike.What I think (sand bars back holes)(hardpack bars in forward setting).Need advice which is best.

Pretty sure mine are rear... if your riding in sand you want to have weight on the pegs while leaning back and weight on the back of the bike so the front tire is almost hydro planing. I'm 5'10 and im pretty sure I'd feel uncomfortable with them forward, especially in sand washes or dunes. I also personally hate super skinny tires on the front in the sand... such as some of the michlins but maybe its just a mind F_@#. :smirk:

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I am 5'-11" and my bike came with the bars in the rear mounting position but I found it hard to get up on the tank in the corners with them mounted in the rear so I moved them to the front holes and i've been very happy. Seems i get alot more leverage when pulling back on the bars in the whoops too. Bleeding the forks is a pita tho because the handlebars are directly on top of the bleeders. I'm going to look into getting some bleeder valves...

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I am 5'-11" and my bike came with the bars in the rear mounting position but I found it hard to get up on the tank in the corners with them mounted in the rear so I moved them to the front holes and i've been very happy. Seems i get alot more leverage when pulling back on the bars in the whoops too. Bleeding the forks is a pita tho because the handlebars are directly on top of the bleeders. I'm going to look into getting some bleeder valves...

Definitely a neat item, push button bleeders. You might be suprised at how much pressure builds up after a few hours of riding.

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I am 5'-11" and my bike came with the bars in the rear mounting position but I found it hard to get up on the tank in the corners with them mounted in the rear so I moved them to the front holes and i've been very happy. Seems i get alot more leverage when pulling back on the bars in the whoops too. Bleeding the forks is a pita tho because the handlebars are directly on top of the bleeders. I'm going to look into getting some bleeder valves...

it is funny how everyone is different

i am 6.1 tall and love the rear mounting

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yah im 6'2 and my bars in mounted in the rear hole front feels realy funny. but each to there own

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crazy... i dont see how anyone my size could ride with them in the front holes. lol. I guess I'm used to a 250f tho so I like the compact feeling of the bike. hell, she feels like a 250f as far as weight... even tho the scales tell otherwise.

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If you get fork bleeders get the Moose ones. They are very low profile with little anodized caps. They're not cheap, but they're solid. I've used the other kind and they are way too tall and can be easily broken off. The only thing with moose is that they've got a smaller than 8mm wrench fitting. The kit comes with a tiny aluminum "wrench" that bends easily. I don't know what size it really is, 7mm, 6mm? Anyhoo, I've had them for over a year and all my buddies have them. Worth the money! I wanna say they were around $28-32.

(No I don't work for or am sponsored by or otherwise have any connection with moose!)

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I used a pair of those bleeders once on my 06 ihad and liked them for like a half a ride. The dang gone top of the bleeder came off and when I came in off the track I noticed a lot of stain on my riding pants.

I wiped some of it on my finger and smelt of it and I knew from the smell it was fork fluid. Checked my bleeders and and seen the top off the left bleeder.

I was wondering why everytime I went around a left turn the bike wanted to wash out so I knew why after that.

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About the fork bleeders. I read somewhere that although it makes bleeding "easier" you have to bleed them more often. All it takes to bleed them is a small flat head screwdriver that will easily fit under your bar pad. Keep in mind, the front wheel needs to be off the ground to properly bleed the forks. So if u keep your stand in the truck and your tools in the truck why would you spend money on something that isnt any more convenient than a screwdriver in a toolbox? It takes me about 1 minute to bleed my forks start to finnish.

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About the fork bleeders. I read somewhere that although it makes bleeding "easier" you have to bleed them more often. All it takes to bleed them is a small flat head screwdriver that will easily fit under your bar pad. Keep in mind, the front wheel needs to be off the ground to properly bleed the forks. So if u keep your stand in the truck and your tools in the truck why would you spend money on something that isnt any more convenient than a screwdriver in a toolbox? It takes me about 1 minute to bleed my forks start to finnish.

I use a screwdriver now but with the handlebars in the forward mounting holes it places the bars directly on top of the bleeders and makes it very hard to get them out. The screw driver is on such an angle that i cant even get the whole blade in the bleeder at once. I'm going to try and spin the tube and see if i can get it in a better position.

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So if u keep your stand in the truck and your tools in the truck why would you spend money on something that isnt any more convenient than a screwdriver in a toolbox? It takes me about 1 minute to bleed my forks start to finnish.
Takes me about 10 seconds, and I can do it anywhere that there a slight slope I can use to "hang" the bike by its front brake so as to extend the fork.

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