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Alexandros

WR400 CDI Problems

4 posts in this topic

I have a 99 WR400 that has 50/182 Jets, Hot Cams and FMF powerpipe. Problem is my brother tried to start it last week, started then died, I never had a problem with it before after doing all that work. I was not outside when he was starting it.

Yesterday I cleaned out the carb, then pulled out the plug and cleaned and verified the gap on it. Just for amusement I took a volt meter and hooked it to the spark plug wire, and started to crank it over. I knew we had fuel all along, it was flooded actually, but at any rate. As I started kicking it I set the meter to the 10V reading, nothing, not even a teeter. Then I went down to 2.5V and it slowly started moving closer to 2.5V as I cranked on it.

Now correct me if I am wrong but an ignition system is supposed to put out alot more than 2.5V correct? Possibly thousands of volts right?

I am thinking it is the CDI box that finally went out, and a new Vortex CDI Unit is $499.95. I do not have a problem having to pay for that one day, but for right now I would rather have a cheap fix. A vortex igntion and an edelbrock carb will be my future engine upgrades as I get the rest of my gear together for the dirt bike parks.

Question is what could be the problem. Again I never had a problem with the bike until my brother started messing with it. And now it cranks, smells like fuel, but no start. I am sure the problem is ignition, and my father who is a master HVAC mechanic, says pull the plug and wire and crank for spark. Verify spark.

I agree with that, but he does not seem to acknowledge that I am getting a silly 2.5V reading from the volt meter, (the volt meter) is working just fine. Suggestions on a cheap fix? Where can I get the CDI rebuilt? Anyone ever had the same problems? Is it the CDI unit you think? Any talk at this point is good talk. I am not too knowledgeable on CDI units but I assume it stands for capacitor discharge ignition. Suggestions on how to diagnose? I have a repair manual, not chiltons, but the other company. It says open hot engine valve, crank over 20 times to clear the motor, then crank once and it starts, no worky.

Alex

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Shorted plug. Just pulled the plug, and have a spark to the frame from the plug housing, just no spark in the plug. Tried to clean the plug, and still not worky. Trying to find a replacement for the NGK R CR8E plug, an iridium plug on sunday is impossible.

Learned one thing though, moto shop wants $6.99 a plug, advance auto is $3.99, the iridium plugs at advance auto are $6.99. Isn't that cool? Did the grey wire mod too, can't wait to see what it does now.

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Just for amusement I took a volt meter and hooked it to the spark plug wire, and started to crank it over.

Now correct me if I am wrong but an ignition system is supposed to put out alot more than 2.5V correct? Possibly thousands of volts right?

Ehm.. Yes.. the spark that jumps the gap in the plug is thousands of volts, but it's so brief I'd be amazed to see it move a voltmeter at all. If you want to test for a spark, use another, known good plug, a screwdriver stuck up the plug connector and held close to the engine, a bare HT wire end, or stick a finger up the plug connector and kick the bike over.. A good spark you'll feel in your shoulder, a weak spark doesnt get much beyond your wrist. What does it feel like? A jolt of static electricity..

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Shorted plug. Just pulled the plug, and have a spark to the frame from the plug housing, just no spark in the plug. Tried to clean the plug, and still not worky. Trying to find a replacement for the NGK R CR8E plug, an iridium plug on sunday is impossible.

Learned one thing though, moto shop wants $6.99 a plug, advance auto is $3.99, the iridium plugs at advance auto are $6.99. Isn't that cool? Did the grey wire mod too, can't wait to see what it does now.

It works now...

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