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ironhead23

Stripped Oil Drain Plug

10 posts in this topic

My friend has a 2008 YZ-450, and tightened the oil drain plug a bit too much last oil change and the threads stripped and now the oil plug will not properly seat into the threads. It stays in the hole but would most likely vibrate out when the bike is being used. So far he used grip glue to hold the plug in temporarily, anyone have a suggestion for a fix on this?

We have considered using lock-tight on the bolt to keep it in between oil changes. Would using a tap on the threads to properly cut them again be a good idea?

Thanks in advance

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you can try to just retap it w/ out drilling

but i would drill and retap or heli coil it (but u have to drill and retap to heli coil)... find a tap chart so u can match the drill w/ the tap and hand tap do NOT use a drill to tap.

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I'm no expert with tapping holes, what do you mean by drill w/ the tap? Is it not just the tap shaft with a handle that tightens on the square end of the tap? And also, what exactly is heli coil?

Thanks again

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If it doesn't work to just run a tap through the same size as the threads, will I have to cut a bigger diameter into the hole and get a new larger diameter bolt?

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I've had good luck with self-tapping drain bolts. Figure out the size and pitch of the drain bolt in your motor and buy one the next size up. You can get them at auto parts stores for about $3-4.

The first time you using the self-tapping bolt, coat the threads in grease to catch the little bits of metal. You should also run some oil through the gearbox to be safe. Since these are designed for automotive, you might also need to grind down the bolt a bit so you don't have clearance problems. You can check the depth with a caliper.

I've had one in a YZ250 and a car with an aluminum oil pan for over a year. I can torque the bolt down normally. So far so good. Fast, easy and effective fix.

Helicoils are a big pain because you have to drill the hole exactly straight or the bolt head won't sit square and will leak. With the self-tapping bolts you don't have this problem.

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I stripped my drain plug a year ago on my 06 450 and just wound up buying a Time-Sert Mx10 and had to take the whole motor off in order to get a good straight line to the the drain hole.

The Time-sert worked just as they stated it would and did a great job. I even believe you can even toque it to greater measures with the time-sert plug in.

It was worth the extra time it took to take the motor off to put in the Time-Sert. I did the whole job in one day,just put the plastic's back on the next day (like shrouds and gas tank).

If he is going to keep the bike for awhile it will be well worth to get a Time-Sert.

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I stripped my drain plug a year ago on my 06 450 and just wound up buying a Time-Sert Mx10 and had to take the whole motor off in order to get a good straight line to the the drain hole.

The Time-sert worked just as they stated it would and did a great job. I even believe you can even toque it to greater measures with the time-sert plug in.

It was worth the extra time it took to take the motor off to put in the Time-Sert. I did the whole job in one day,just put the plastic's back on the next day (like shrouds and gas tank).

If he is going to keep the bike for awhile it will be well worth to get a Time-Sert.

time sets are fantastic worth what they charge

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I did the same to the bottom drain on the eng. on my 426. :banana: I had a heli-coil put in and good as new. Only prop is when you put in the heli coil you cover up the cut out slot in the threads that lets you get all the oil. Not sure if the 450 has it put my 426 does so now I must lean it to the right to get all of the oil out.:)

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