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tech24

Just got a 2010 YZ450!!!

19 posts in this topic

I haven't been on in a while but decided to go pick me up a 2010 yesterday. Ive only rode if for a few minutes so far, I think it wants to kill me.

Is everyone happy with theirs so far?

Any things I should keep an eye on?

Leaded fuel is ok to use in these things isn't in?

(even though the owners manual says it will destroy everything, What a bunch of crap)

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I've ridden mine twice now and loved every minute of it. I had a problem with it dying on me a lot the first time I rode, but it only died once the second time out (long day at Bulcher).

I still haven't taken it full throttle for more than a blip, but I can tell that this thing is a beast.

My one complaint is the twitchy throttle at slower speeds (I ride in the trails with a 13 year old and tend to spend a lot of time in 1st gear).

I can only assume you're kidding about the leaded fuel bit...

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Some things to consider: check the air filter. I've seen a few come bone dry with not a very good seal around the lip.

Tire air pressure seems to be 2 pounds or 20 pounds from the dealer.

Set your sag. Have fun. Break it in hard!

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I use to run Union 76 leaded fuel in my two stroke, since pops could get it dirt cheap when at the Nascar tracks when he worked for a team. I haven't tried it in the 4 bangers, and because the expense is so great at fixing one, I don't think I ever will.

As for the twitchy throttle, you can either gear it up, which just makes that Grand Canyon of a gap between 2nd and 3rd gear even bigger. Gear it down and ride in 2nd-4th as your primary gears, or you can get a programmer.

I went with the ladder, and I love that programmer

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There's no legitimate reason to run leaded fuel, but there are some valid concerns connected to it.

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There's no legitimate reason to run leaded fuel, but there are some valid concerns connected to it.

I'll probably stay away from leaded but I run cam2 or VP red in other stuff so I was just kind of curious. Guess I'll stick with pump gas for now. Plus I was reading map data base and the yammy maps were with U4.2 which is leaded.

Is everyone using the GYTR programmer? Seems to be nicest I've seen.

Gonna swap filter for a twin air and put a skid on it. Hopefully I'll get to ride a few this evening cause I'm going back to hatfield and mcoy in a couple weeks. Gonna check the stair steps out

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I took it out for a short put last night and all I can say is WOW! What a machine. I do agree throttle is way too sensative but a programmer and some seat time should remedy that. Other than that this thing is comfortable and a beast for sure.

It does seems a little easy to flood on hot starts if you kick too hard but I started just kicking softer and it fires right up. Can't wait to ride it again!

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didn't find anything but I pretty much got it figured out anyway.

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Kick through the stroke until you find yout compression stroke (it will up at the top and one of the hardest kicks to push down on) once at the comp stroke, kick the tar out of it.

Mine fires up every time

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Kick through the stroke until you find yout compression stroke (it will up at the top and one of the hardest kicks to push down on) once at the comp stroke, kick the tar out of it.

Mine fires up every time

hmmm mine seems to dislike hard kicks. Cold start I kick slow twice to charge condensor and 1 smooth kick to start. But if I stall or shut it off hot and try to restart and I kick it hard it seems to flood but I found 1 slow smooth kick seemed to fire it right up. Havent been on it much Im sure after a few more rides ill have no problem.

Although flooding seems to be no big deal comparred to FCR a few slow kicks with throttle open clears it right out.

I plan to run amsoil 10w40 year round. My buddy is a dealer and stocks it for his Hondas and I get it cheap. Anyone see a problem with running this year round?

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I use it year round and have had no problems. I use the MCF BTW

yeah thats the stuff was gonna use 20w50 but have heard its been too thick for some oil pumps but that could be bull

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yeah thats the stuff was gonna use 20w50 but have heard its been too thick for some oil pumps but that could be bull
Depends on the outdoor temperature. When the temps stay consistently over 90, I use 20w-50 (MCV). Anything less than that, 10w-40 (MCF). Truth to tell, though, 10w-40 is OK up to 110 degrees or so.

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Depends on the outdoor temperature. When the temps stay consistently over 90, I use 20w-50 (MCV). Anything less than that, 10w-40 (MCF). Truth to tell, though, 10w-40 is OK up to 110 degrees or so.

guess im ok either way was leaning toward 20w50 since its been consistently 100 degrees but i have to buy a whole case of that but like you said to 10w40 should be alright

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guess im ok either way was leaning toward 20w50 since its been consistently 100 degrees but i have to buy a whole case of that but like you said to 10w40 should be alright
You don't have to buy a case, and you can buy it in gallons if you like:

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motorcycle-oil

If you use enough of either oil, signing up as a preferred customer will save you enough to cover the shipping and then some, even factoring in the membership fee:

http://www.amsoil.com/a/wholesale-preferred-customer

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You don't have to buy a case, and you can buy it in gallons if you like:

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motorcycle-oil

If you use enough of either oil, signing up as a preferred customer will save you enough to cover the shipping and then some, even factoring in the membership fee:

http://www.amsoil.com/a/wholesale-preferred-customer

I might check that out my I have to buy a case or large order to for my buddy to order and get his dealer discount which may not be much I think he said he gets it for 8 bucks a quart which isn't much off so I'll check that out

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FYI, he gets his dealer discount on every purchase, large or small, and he gets it for about $8/qt if he just buys one.

Gallons are a little cheaper, but not so much. Your buddy is probably trying to work the shipping cost end of things.

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