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durzer

Harsh front end

12 posts in this topic

Compared to other bikes, the front end seems very stiff and harsh. Even when parked and pushing down on it. No end of clicker adjustments has made much difference, now set back to standard.

All standard as far as I know. Get a little air out after a good ride.

Lived with this for too long now and may sell the bike on as it's that bad!

Any suggestions?

What is the fork oil height?

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try loosening the axle pinch bolts .Then grab the front brake and push on the front end a few times. Then tighten them again

If the forks arent compressing parallel to each other they will bind and be very harsh

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By chance did you buy the bike used? Maybe the other rider was much heavier and has stiffer springs, oil weight and level.

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try loosening the axle pinch bolts .Then grab the front brake and push on the front end a few times. Then tighten them again

If the forks arent compressing parallel to each other they will bind and be very harsh

Tried that several times. Don't think anything has been changed as he was around my size.

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prolly time to pull them apart and take a look...

what year bike ?

07 450

Put it in for seals and fresh oil a couple of times since owning, never any mention of problems. (Don't like messing with forks myself!)

Would oil height cause this?

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Absolutely! If you started having problems after fork seal replacement the tech filled the forks with too much oil.

Unfortunately you have to pull forks to remedy. Fork springs have to come out to set level properly. You should be running 130mm from top according to manual. IF you, like me, are a little larger, you'll want to bump that up a bit. Right now I'm currently at 110mm to help with bottoming.

John

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A professional suspension expert told me to try 2.5W oil to smooth things out. I haven't tried it, so............

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I know it sounds lazy but I'm a busy guy!

Could I just jack the bike up, remove the bars, fork caps and springs to dip for oil height?

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.

Could I just jack the bike up, remove the bars, fork caps and springs to dip for oil height?

IMHO yes.

If it was me I'd be trying to get the forks as vertical as possible for my measurement by raising the rear wheel somehow.

If you don't then you'll need to be absolutely certain that the point at which you measure the oil level is exactly in the centre of the oil surface.

If you don't get the forks vertical, and (for example) your measuring device (stick, whatever) is against the front inside face of the fork tube then you'll get a low oil level reading. Conversely, if its against the back of the tube you'll get a high reading.

Hope that makes sense!

I don't subscribe to the oil level problem theory in your case BTW. An increase in oil level has always, by my experience, allowed the first part of the stroke to remain plush, it just stiffens up the latter part.

This is due to the fact that the increased volume of non-compressible oil replaces the decreased volume of compressible air. That compression only really comes into play towards the latter part of the stroke.

I think your problem is something else, eg. bent tube, something internal out of position, etc. Hopefully its a CHEAP fix!

Greg

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I don't subscribe to the oil level problem theory in your case BTW. An increase in oil level has always, by my experience, allowed the first part of the stroke to remain plush, it just stiffens up the latter part.

This is due to the fact that the increased volume of non-compressible oil replaces the decreased volume of compressible air. That compression only really comes into play towards the latter part of the stroke.

I think your problem is something else, eg. bent tube, something internal out of position, etc. Hopefully its a CHEAP fix!

Greg

You're correct to a certain extent. If the oil level has been increased by 25-50mm or more the forks will get extreemly harsh. Oil level is an excellent tuning tool for, as you said , last third of the travel to prevent bottoming. But if an ignorant tech filled the tubes with too much oil and didn't set level properly this coould easily be the problem.

Easy enouogh to check and set. It's only a total of 7 fasteners to pull forks. Loosen top cap prior to loosening lower pinch bolts, follow manual and it's a piece of cake (and peace of mind).

John

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I know next to nothing about suspension but have had mine tricked up by Robbie Maddisons old man,that is not relevant, I just like to gloat.

Maddo does his stuff when it comes to suspension and told/showed me these little springs that sit in the bottom of each fork, they turn to poo after about 1000kms and stop the suspension/valving working properly, he explained a lot of other technical mumbo jumbo but I started to nod off.

The up shot is, every WR suspension is pretty much crap and needs a complete overhaul after about 800-1000kms.

Mine is now the sweetest ride I have ever had due to the correct valving and springs.

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