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tribalbc

Trail Tech speedo power source

16 posts in this topic

What are you guys using for a main power source on your Trail Tech 's on 07+ WR's. I would like to use my stock speedo leads as the main power wire is pretty mickey mouse and there is no way it is going to survive long connected to my battery, not to mention it's an ebatt so hookup is a little more complicated. I tried hooking into my speedo leads with the brown and black wires. Looking at my manual it says brown is power in and black ground. Well I imediately blew a fuse with this :)

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I've been running my vapor's power directly from the battery (OEM Yuasa ) via the tiny little wire that came with the unit for 3 or 4 months now with no problems on my '04. I just put some spade connectors on the end to attach directly to the batt terminals. Been no problems with storing on the battery tender between rides either.:)

IIRC your ebatt has a bit of a different setup as far a connections or terminals goes, but I'd think you could make it work.

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I've been running my vapor's power directly from the battery (OEM Yuasa ) via the tiny little wire that came with the unit for 3 or 4 months now with no problems on my '04. I just put some spade connectors on the end to attach directly to the batt terminals. Been no problems with storing on the battery tender between rides either.:)

IIRC your ebatt has a bit of a different setup as far a connections or terminals goes, but I'd think you could make it work.

I could come off my starter relay and a ground with some heavier gauge wire but I'd still rather not. There must be a way to connect into the existing speedo leads.... I don't have a spare fuse right now so I don't feel like playing around. Electrical is not my strong point....

I pound on the MX track quite a bit as well as race hare scrambles and I just don't see that tiny wire lasting very long or being reliable in a race. Last thing I would want is a short.

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You've got the wire colors correct for the '07. I'd check for shorts / skinned wires and double check that you didn't mistakenly use the Black with White wire.

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You've got the wire colors correct for the '07. I'd check for shorts / skinned wires and double check that you didn't mistakenly use the Black with White wire.

Thanks, that's what I thought. I think I could of possibly had the ignition on and touched some wires when I was splicing it in. I'll get some extra fuses tomorrow and give her another go :)

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If.......... you connect your unit to a switched source, expect occassional data loss, like the tripmeter. When it looses power on the hot lead and internally toggles over to the battery, sometimes, it hiccups and loses the data. I have mine (on my DRZ) on an always hot lead now. It draws next to no power and is not a problem. Only comes on when the engine is running or the bike is moving.

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If.......... you connect your unit to a switched source, expect occassional data loss, like the tripmeter. When it looses power on the hot lead and internally toggles over to the battery, sometimes, it hiccups and loses the data. I have mine (on my DRZ) on an always hot lead now. It draws next to no power and is not a problem. Only comes on when the engine is running or the bike is moving.

I was worried about this problem with the data loss, when my bike gets stuck on the compression stroke with the electric start it momentarily kills power and resets my stock speedo. A definate pain in races were you're trying to keep track of time and distance. Trail Tech told me this wouldn't be a problem.... Maybe I will just stay on the units battery power to avoid this problem, I don't really need the LED's anyways. I have the Vector and LED's are for temp and fast/ slow laps, not realy a biggy. Any idea how long the batteries in these units last?

If I was going to try running from bike power would bringing a hot lead in from the battery and grounding to the triples be a good call to try?

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You should not have this issue with the stock unit, unless your battery is getting near the end of its' life.

In any case, wire the Trail Tech to a hot, as long as a little voltage is there, it should be fine. On your bike, the OEM wires are:

The Red with White trace is always on and at the OEMN speedo connection. The Brown wire is only hot when the 'On' button is engaged. For a ground, use the Black (any one, they are all grounds, confirm with a meter).

The batteries in mine are almost two years old and still work (I think) but I run on the bike battery 99% of the time. The built in battery, if used to power the unit 100%, will last about one year, assuming the battery is new and good quality.

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You should not have this issue with the stock unit, unless your battery is getting near the end of its' life.

In any case, wire the Trail Tech to a hot, as long as a litle voltage is there, it should be fine. On your bike, the OEM wires are:

The Red with White trace is always on and at the OEMN speedo connection. The Brown wire is only hot when the 'On' button is engaged. For a ground, use the Black (any one, they are all grounds, confirm with a meter).

The batteries in mine are almost two years old and still work (I think) but I run on the bike battery 99% of the time. The built in battery, if used to power the unit 100%, will last about one year, assuming the battery is new and good quality.

Thanks for the help. It's an Ebatt, quite new and has lots of juice. It's my second ebatt, first was the original nicad model. It's always done this with the Ebatts, can't remember with stock as this was long ago. The thing is with the high compression piston and YZ cams in my bike it likes to get stuck on the compression stroke even more often.....

So if I use the red with white line lead from the speedo there should be enough power to run the Vector?? This seems like the best option.

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I have a wr426 2002 and so my bike has no battery and i have fitted mine to the stator and ive not had any prolems at all, it is best to attach the trial tech to the battery as you will have no problem with loss of data if for any reason it was too, the unit does not use enough power to kill the battery you could have the unit sucking power for over a few months constant with no charge and still work. the battery is the best option. thats my opinion and also from trial tech them selves when i spoke to them.

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Yup, should be, that is how I'd wire it up.

Worked a charm, LED's and all :)

I tried the compression stroke thing on the electric start and 1 time out of 5 it reset the speedo so that's not too bad. I'll see in time.....

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any idea what the redwire is under the speedo..... just curious because thats what i power my horn and turnsignals with... i used red and black

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You need to give more info. What plug is it in/color codes,/wire count/plug style.

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