Tusk Enduro Light kit help

Also, I figured out how to make everything run off of one single main power switch. You can either use the stock Yamaha main power switch with the little red LED or you can eliminate that and use the Tusk main power switch, you don't need both.

As described by other posters the horn, taillight, and turn signals will run off the battery DC power and therefore when you turn the main power switch on they will turn on. The headlight will run on a completely different power circuit and will run off the stator AC power. Therefore the headlight will only run when the bike is running.

If you want to keep the stock Yamaha switch with the little red LED:

- Take the Tusk red wire and splice that into the stock Yamaha brown wire. This brown wire can be found by following the stock Yamaha main power switch to the four pin connector junction. The brown wire is coming out of that connector junction and goes into the bike.

- Take the Tusk black wire and splice that into the stock Yamaha black wire. This black wire can be found by following the stock Yamaha kill switch to the two pin connector junction. The black wire is coming out of that connector junction and goes into the bike.

So now the stock Yamaha main power switch will send DC battery power through the Tusk dual sport kit and power the horn, taillight, and turn signals.

See my above post on how to connect the Tusk headlight hi and low beam handlebar switch to the stock headlight. Once again the way described will run the headlight off the bike's stator AC power and therefore will only run when the bike is on.

I guess if you wanted to get really fancy you can have the best of both worlds and rig it so the headlight can run off the battery DC power when the bike is not running. The way to do this is by splicing in one end of a red wire(supplied by you, not part of the Tusk kit or from the stock Yamaha wire harness) to the blue Tusk headlight switch wire. Then splicing in the other end of the new red wire supplied by you to the stock Yamaha Red/Black wire coming from the stock Yamaha main power switch. I have not tried this but my theory is the low beam headlight will act just like the little red LED in the stock Yamaha main power switch. It will turn on when you switch the light on but turn off when the bike is on, this will then allow the headlight to switch over to the AC stator power. Now I am not sure if you also need to connect the black wires too but I am guessing the existing black connections will work. I will try this out and let you know if it works but this may take until the weekend. You all can try this at your own risk beforehand. Who knows it could blow up your bike or something! Well probably not but I don't want anyone blaming me for any sort of damage to their bike.

Edited by mtnman0712
another brain cell fired

mtnman0712 - Yes, you can convert the headlight (though I did not analyze your method and therefore will not comment on its' correctness) to DC but you must replace the reg/rect and do the stator mod. Otherwise, the battery will be drained in short order.

:bonk:I just finished the install of the tusk system on my 01 wr 426. Works great all but the headlight. I am scratchin my head. After reading this I think I got it, here goes. Splice the two headlight wires from the bike to the black wire on the tusk switch and the high beam connector on the headlight. Then Tusk blue wire to the low beam and white to ground? Ah i am confusing myself....is this right? I understand everything except how to get the power to the tusk switch.

I do not think you want to splice the two wires from the bike. They are the power and ground wires and you will most likely cause a short. Here is my understanding: One of your wires is the Ground and the other is the power. The power is probably on a relay and the circuit is only complete (On) when the bike is running.

Wiring Instructions:

1) The Ground from the bike goes to your light bulb. 2) The power from the bike goes to the Black Tusk wire. 3) The Tusk White wire goes to the Low Beam on the light bulb. 4) The Tusk Dark Blue wire goes to the High Beam on the light bulb.

If I am correct and the power from the bike is on a relay, you will only be able to test the wiring when the bike is running. If you already spliced the power and ground together, you may have to replace a fuse to get everything working. Take everything with a grain of salt, I only got my light working last night.

I hope the information is helpful.

...Dave

mtnman0712 - Yes, you can convert the headlight (though I did not analyze your method and therefore will not comment on its' correctness) to DC but you must replace the reg/rect and do the stator mod. Otherwise, the battery will be drained in short order.

Hey William1, what I am suggesting is that you don't run the headlight on DC the whole time. My theory is that you can run the headlight off DC when the bike is off. This is for people who need the lights to run while the bike is off for passing state inspection. Then when the bike is on you run the headlight off AC.

This is accomplished by using the relay connected to the stock main power switch's red LED. I figure when you push the stock main power switch to on the little red LED turns on and is running off the battery DC power. Then when you start the bike the relay flips over thus breaking the red LED DC circuit. Now theoretically when that circuit is broken then potentially you can run the red LED off stator AC power because that circuit will now be live with electricity. Now switch the red LED for the headlight low beam and hopefully voila you can run the headlight low beam off DC when the bike is off then off AC when the bike is on and you won't need to modify the stator and as long as you don't run the headlight with the bike off too much then you won't run down the battery.

Now I am fortunate to have a daytime running light incorporated into my headlight as I have the Polisport MMX headlight. The DRL bulb is only 4 watts as opposed to 35 watts so it can run off the battery for much longer without draining the battery as much as the low beam.

I am praying this works and if it does then I will really be proud of myself as it would have been the most advanced thing I have done on my bike. But I am not popping the champagne yet.

Make sense?

I got you.

You could also run the relay (A DPDT one) off of the stator. Using the NC terminals, power the head light by DC, then when the stator is generating current, it would energize the relay, switching to the NO terminals and to AC.

However.... I would not go to all that bother. It is too simple to just make the bike completely DC. You have 100% of the stator output go to the battery, great for those days when you stall 80 times on a mountainside, keeping the battery fully charged. A switch on the head light that enables turning it off conserves even more juice for those days.

You are going to find the 4 watt DRL is not considered a headlight, they look at it as a position or parking lamp. I have them in all my bikes. When I first fire up a bike, I have this light on and do not switch on the main lamps until I have ridden a few miles, giving the battery all the bikes juice for a bit.

William1, as always great points and advice. To be honest I am a bit scared to do the whole stator mod, it sounds a little like open heart surgery. I will do it one day, maybe this winter.

thanks mtnman that cleared it up for me. i will wire it tomorrow. passed inspection today in illinois. yeah ha! only questioned about the registration light. i showed them the white light coming from the taillight. kinda got an eye roll but it passed.

Hi I am not sure about this kit but if you do a search for newfoundlander and look for dual sport setup you will find a post that I did in 2005. This works great all you have to do is make sure that all of the negative leads from the turn signals, lights etc are ran directly off the battery and not grounded to the frame. This eliminates having to float the ground and you can run directly off of DC from the battery. There is a wiring diagram and this can easily be done for under $100. If you have any further questions please feel free to send me an e-mail or post on this thread.

Hi I am not sure about this kit but if you do a search for newfoundlander and look for dual sport setup you will find a post that I did in 2005. This works great all you have to do is make sure that all of the negative leads from the turn signals, lights etc are ran directly off the battery and not grounded to the frame. This eliminates having to float the ground and you can run directly off of DC from the battery. There is a wiring diagram and this can easily be done for under $100. If you have any further questions please feel free to send me an e-mail or post on this thread.

Issue still is the headlight operating when the engine is off.

You should always run everything off a ground wire and never use the chassis for ground. Floating the ground on a modded bike is only because of the design of the stators and if you did not float it, you'd need to add a wire. So to combine all the output of the stator to rectify it into DC, part of the job is to float the ground.

WR's (stockers) use a split system and float the ground on the AC side and not on the DC side

My situation is a little different, I’m stumped with the tusk endurance kit and a acerbis Cyclops headlight.

I'm a newbee and I’ve recently purchased a 2004 Yamaha wr250f. I’m configuring it to be an on/off road bike.

I'm a green newbee and I’ve recently purchased a 2004 Yamaha wr250f. I’m configuring it to be an on/off road bike. I just want to ride it on the road to get it to the trails.

My Point: I’ve installed the tusk endurance kit (kind of) successfully. The signals, brake light and horn work properly but:

1) I need a running light (required in Ontario) to stay on even if the engine isn’t running. The Cyclops has a total of 3 lights (low/high/running), I figure the running light would be perfect for running on dc temporarily until the bike is started

the control switches

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VF97dVAXbwcWpijxyArW89Fi3lOAexbAdX4Yge69CobDSjfGhm4aogA4at1d2ViBU3iqe2g9g4-xa-8SQGd5yPbSKA=s512

wiring harness connections

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/ifxIhbdkXbMTmtQ59NvhaCF4cgBtnvjJJzS06BzarWHhinkQ5WaR_eUIi_Vl7E_G84LXRM71wB-9is_iTUKLg93gLg=s512

2) When I plug in the Cyclops into the existing connector on the bike the lights go on but only if the tusk light control switch is turned off. When I turn the light control switch on, the lights turn off ?!$*

cyclops wiring

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/kHOpmhWzYsvfA-Xk7rjIGkzey3jL5iWhcuRXT-mdazKbNdf_N4-QuVavbEVTYxIXXqgzFIC5c5O0mE2Mu2VKmmBJ0g=s512

3) There is no engine kill switch connected, it was broken when I got the bike. Can I use the tusk power switch (on/off) to turn on the lights and ignition even if the bike isn't running yet and bypass the yamaha power button (little red led).

A kill switch used to be on the end of this, without this, how do I shut it off

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xr7LfMNpf1jud_IpXvnbJQKmMlu_IsN7fEtXvSas5ybOFp899wpryiutvkMZ60ERlvd3gGeDs-SHrt0BXP0WoFJXUw=s512

Any help would be appreciated, thanks for your help. If you need bigger/better pictures I can send them to you

What is your electronics background? Can you read a schematic?

Did everything work correctly before you started? Headlight go on when the engine started but stay off when the engine was off?

How do you stop the engine now without the kill switch?

Was the stator mod done that you know of?

What headlight (since you say there are 3) is going off when the motor starts, all of them?

Answer those and let's see what we find from there. The number 1 thing I would say is get a manual if you don't have one and number 2 to spend the $10 on an aftermarket kill switch.

Thanks for the reply miweber929,

-My electronics background for bikes is "nil" and I'm new to schematics but I purchased the Haynes repair manual and the wiring diagram doesn't look too complicated (hopefully those aren't famous last words) plus I just received an original 2003 yamaha service manual, hopefully a lot of stuff is still applicable. I haven’t had the chance to go through it yet.

-The headlight was broken when I got the bike, so the first time I saw power come from the front plug was when I plugged in the cyclops

-The original kill switch is still on the bike it is just not connected, at the actual push button and at the plug between the forks

-When I took the bike for the test ride I tried a couple times to get it into neutral but I was too cold to worry about it and just stalled it. I'm from the toronto area, the temperature was about 20f and there was about 2ft of snow on the ground. So, I've been turning the idle screw to stall it. Did this three times to check the lights while the bike was running.

-I don't think the stator mod was done, he wouldn't have had any reason to do it, plus he didn't perform any of the other (free) mods either, so he wasn't a mod type of guy

-The lights (all three) are on when the bike is running with the tusk light control switch turned off, but with the bike still running and I turn the tusk light control switch to low or high beam, all the lights go off

thanks again for your help

Thanks for the reply miweber929,

-My electronics background for bikes is "nil" and I'm new to schematics but I purchased the Haynes repair manual and the wiring diagram doesn't look too complicated (hopefully those aren't famous last words) plus I just received an original 2003 yamaha service manual, hopefully a lot of stuff is still applicable. I haven’t had the chance to go through it yet.

-The headlight was broken when I got the bike, so the first time I saw power come from the front plug was when I plugged in the cyclops

-The original kill switch is still on the bike it is just not connected, at the actual push button and at the plug between the forks

-When I took the bike for the test ride I tried a couple times to get it into neutral but I was too cold to worry about it and just stalled it. I'm from the toronto area, the temperature was about 20f and there was about 2ft of snow on the ground. So, I've been turning the idle screw to stall it. Did this three times to check the lights while the bike was running.

-I don't think the stator mod was done, he wouldn't have had any reason to do it, plus he didn't perform any of the other (free) mods either, so he wasn't a mod type of guy

-The lights (all three) are on when the bike is running with the tusk light control switch turned off, but with the bike still running and I turn the tusk light control switch to low or high beam, all the lights go off

thanks again for your help

Answers. Sorry it's a couple days later, been busy:

- Go through the manual, read up on the elecrtical system. Makes more sense that way. It will be different though as a 426 doesn't have a battery from my limited knowledge and the 03 up 450 does. Get the right manual at some near point or look for an online one.

- OK, so with the headlight then you have nothing to go on so we can only assume it was correct. Seems like it is.

- Hook up the kill switch. Done. It's a no brainer.

- OK

- Again, OK. I didn't catch it was a 426 right away so i am not 100% sure the stator mod is applicable then.

- Wiring in the headlight. One thing to realize, and this is important, is that the Tusk light kit headlight switch is nothing but an on/off switch, it provides NO power at all. This is not very clear in the instructions and unless you spend time looking it's not very apparent. What I did on mine was pick up a different headlight socket from a salvage yard and tap the switch into the original headlight socket, leaving the original unplugged and taped up. I can go back to stock if I want at some point. I can go into this in more detail if needed (just let me know) but the only way to power the headlight through the switch os to grab it from the plug and hook it through the switch.

Now if I am wrong about the battery, and I may be, this all still applys. You need to look at the wiring diagram and apply power from somewhere, after a switch. Relay it off the on/off stock Yamaha one or the one from the Tusk kit or run a seperate relayed line from the battery. Knowing very little as I do, I believe the Cyclops has the smallest light to be hooked up seperately from the normal 2 lights and it's to be used as a key-on light for DOT compliance. Again, might be wrong as I am unfamilier with that exact light but ones like it hook up that way. If this is the case, run that smaller running light off the same circuit as the running tailight and the actual headlights through the Tusk switch.

Again, if I am full of it, correct me please someone and if what I said doesn't make sense or you need somethig more specific, let me know. I do have an electronics background, but sometimes things get jumbled and what I am thinking doesn't translate into what I am writing. And what I have done.

Mike

Answers. What I did on mine was pick up a different headlight socket from a salvage yard and tap the switch into the original headlight socket, leaving the original unplugged and taped up. I can go back to stock if I want at some point. I can go into this in more detail if needed (just let me know) but the only way to power the headlight through the switch os to grab it from the plug and hook it through the switch.

You need to look at the wiring diagram and apply power from somewhere, after a switch. Relay it off the on/off stock Yamaha one or the one from the Tusk kit or run a seperate relayed line from the battery. Knowing very little as I do, I believe the Cyclops has the smallest light to be hooked up seperately from the normal 2 lights and it's to be used as a key-on light for DOT compliance. Again, might be wrong as I am unfamilier with that exact light but ones like it hook up that way. If this is the case, run that smaller running light off the same circuit as the running tailight and the actual headlights through the Tusk switch.

Mike

-Thanks for the info, actually I have a 250f, I just used this forum because its so simular to my issue.

-thanks, could you provide the details on tapping the switch and how to power the headlight through the switch. Thats the part I'm having the issue with, to power the light using the wires (blue, black & white) coming from the switch. I've tried many combination's and they all end with the lights always on or always off. Therefore controlling high/low beam isn't working. I got the running light to work but none of the other lights would come on. I must be missing something simple but can't figure it out.

Tomorrow I'm going to try wiring the running light directly to the brake light line.

Edited by bradlee14181
info added

-thanks, could you provide the details on tapping the switch and how to power the headlight through the switch. Thats the part I'm having the issue with, to power the light using the wires (blue, black & white) coming from the switch. I've tried many combination's and they all end with the lights always on or always off. Therefore controlling high/low beam isn't working. I got the running light to work but none of the other lights would come on. I must be missing something simple but can't figure it out.

I too struggled with this at first as I mistakenly believed that the switch was powered, which it isn't. If I remember correctly, you first have to introduce power (either from your battery if dc system or from the stator if ac system). A stock WR would need to use the ac circuit just like the stock headlight. Reason being is that there is not enough juice sent to the battery to run a headlight for long. If the stock stator has been modded (Baja Designs) or a completely new stator (Trailtech, Electrex, Ricky Stator) then usually all the power is run through the battery as dc and you no longer have an ac output. So first find out what you have.

As someone else noted above, the headlight switch is merely that, just a switch. My recollection is that it goes in line between the power wires to the headlight and the headlight itself. I believe I wired mine (Trailtech stator) with a negative lead from the battery to the black wire and a positive lead from the battery to both the white and the blue wires. It's essentially the same if you are running off the ac system on the stock stator, just that you won't have power unless the engine is running. So you now have power to the low beam (white) and high beam (blue). From there it is just a matter of connecting the proper 3 wires (black, white, blue) to your head light. If using a stock WR headlight, you probably only have a low beam (but I could be wrong about that) and so would only need the black and white wires.

Keep in mind the power to the headlight has nothing to do with the position of the Tusk on/off switch. That switch only gives power to the tail light, blinkers, and horn (all dc from the battery). This is why so many people would rather wire those lights into the stock WR ignition on/off button because it is just another unnecessary button that takes up space on your bars. The Tusk kit is made for a lot of different bikes, which is why they provide that I believe. Even their kit that is for a WR will work fine on a KTM so I'm not sure why they show different part numbers for different kits other than the hydraulic brake switch for the rear brake is somewhat machine specific (Nissin vs. Brembo brakes).

Hope that helps a little.

Bradlee, I just reread your post a couple posts up. You are not going to be able to do what you want to do with your headlight through the Tusk headlight switch. Reason being is that you are wanting to run your "running light" dc so it is always on and I'm guessing the main headlight ac (stock stator) to only come on when the bike is running. You can't run both ac and dc through that same switch. But why not just run a separate set of leads to that running light directly off your batter and just add a small bar switch or toggle switch on the light and then use the Tusk switch for the main head light? You just can't mix the two forms of current through the same switch is all. As to why the light comes on in the off position and off in the on position is just a matter of swapping out your wires from the switch to the light. It sounds like you might have something switched around.

Thanks Brett, your right. I understand now that I can't run the running light and the hi/low through the same switch. I'm running the stock stator therefore, I'll try running the set of leads from the battery to the (running) light with a toggle. Its not a big light and won't be on long so it won't run down the battery. And I'm going to try implementing your advise regarding the on/off switch too. Its getting crowded on the handlebars and I still need room for a trailtech endurance computer and brackets for acerbis hand guards. I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again

Was just going through this old post and thought I would include my wiring for the Tusk system. My 07 still has the stock electrical but I also wanted to delete the Tusk on/off and didn't want to splice into the stock wiring.

First , I removed the on/off switch and connected the two wires(blk & yel) leading to the switch together. Then removed the Tusk power leads from the battery and connected them to the now unused stock tail light connector. You can rig two female spade connectors or get a Yamaha connector to match and use the pig tails from that. Either way you end up with switched 12v DC to the Tusk unit minus the headlight(like normal)

Thanks for all your suggestions and help guys. The WR is now wired for the road with running, hi and low lights. I was able to get the safety with no problems at all and the guy I took it to checked everything thoroughly (to Ontario specs).

thanks again for the help

Was just going through this old post and thought I would include my wiring for the Tusk system. My 07 still has the stock electrical but I also wanted to delete the Tusk on/off and didn't want to splice into the stock wiring.

First , I removed the on/off switch and connected the two wires(blk & yel) leading to the switch together. Then removed the Tusk power leads from the battery and connected them to the now unused stock tail light connector. You can rig two female spade connectors or get a Yamaha connector to match and use the pig tails from that. Either way you end up with switched 12v DC to the Tusk unit minus the headlight(like normal)

I have read all of the posts am now even more confused. I have wired up the Tusk dual sport kit to my stock 2007 WR450f. Blinker, horn and all 4 turn signals work as does the rear brake light :smirk:. I do NOT want the extra switch as my handlebars are already crowded. I would love to use the stock Yamaha on\off switch with the little red light to power the system. What do I need to do (keep in mind that I am an electrical idiot and know nothing about electricity:bonk:) so step by step instructions (for a dummy) would be great. :smirk:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now