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Mrmonk7663

Why are the threads here GONE

7 posts in this topic

Where are all the threads from 04/14 till 06/07? They are all gone. There was some info I needed that has now been removed. What is the deal?

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It is stuck in the old 'new and improved' format. I know the Brian/Bryans are working to port it over.

Is it info I might be able to provide?

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Those posts are still in the "new" system the site tried out for a month and a half. The administrators are looking into how to import them back into this format with the software people from that group. Once they figure something out, expect it to take another couple of weeks.

Meantime, there's no harm in simply asking the question you want an answer to.

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Well someone wrote a nice paragraph in one of my posts regarding how to properly dial in a fuel screw. Itvwas rather lengthy and detailed. Basically I cleaned my carb put a new needle pilot main and float bowl on. I can start the bike with choke on and hot start open. If i turn off choke it will die unless I idle it up a bit. With choke off and cracking the throttle it pops a whole lot. I'm guessing this means lean but I don't know what to do. Pilot is 45 needle is jd main is 165 I believe. Rd float bowl. I wish there was a shop here in Houston that could tune carbs. Everyone says they can but I've never seen a shop worth anything when it came to really tuning a carb. Thanks and sorryfor spelling this is from my phone....oh yah. I also need to know how to adjust the TPS. I pulled mine off the carb which I guess is a no no. It is back on the carb but not plugged in. I don't know if this affects starting or the popping or what. Thanks.

Edited by Mrmonk7663

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Ah, a easy one. You did instsll a new pilot jet, not merely a 'clean one', right?

Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

For the TPS, take a good read in your owners manual, be sure to have a quality VOM meter.

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Thanks for finding the post. Yes, pilot jet is NEW. I have the carb off now and I see a jet that sits by the main jet. It is size "72" I started a post about it. Is this the normal size I need?

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