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Throttle snap in neutral = bike dies... every time

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Does ANYONE'S bike actually snap to life instead of die when snapping the throttle in neutral? I've messed with the fuel screw and the acc. pump screw a lot with no improvement whatsoever. I have the fuel screw out 2 turns and the acc. pump in stock position. The farther I go from those settings, the worse the problem gets. It really isn't a problem when riding, but the power isn't very snappy at all, just kinda mellow and boring. I am trying to get some better response for snap wheelies, and I ride at 4500 feet if it makes any difference. Thanks for your help!

Chris :)

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I have the same issue... it has become problematic especially when approaching a fallen tree at almost a complete stop and then try to do a "trials" wheelie and preload the rear suspension for some pop. Every time I snap the throttle the pig just stalls... I ride 1000-3000 ft. Let me know if you find a resolution for this issue!

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Well you need to look at your jetting, I'm running a 158 main, and a 45 pilot, I have the baffles out of the exhust, the throttle stop cut, and the grey wire cut. I went in 1/2 turn in the acc pump screw from stock, and my fuel screw I play with a lot but generally about 2 turns out. I will get a slight hesitation when I whack the throttle while the bike is sitting still but I have no issues when riding the bike. I have ridden my bike all the way from 2500' to 6000' with just making adjustments to the fuel screw.

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The only thing I have changed is going to the 155 main jet. Everything else in the carb is stock. :)

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look at my jetting at the bottomn of this message. that's for sea level, if you're higher you need a fatter needle straight so an EMM becomes a EMP and as they don't make one of those you need to buy an EKP. the last letter is the difference because the middle code is simply the taper height and that can be adjusted by your clip.

the other thing is that my MJ would still be rich at 4,500ft and it could come down below my 150MJ or so i shouldn't bet-especially on the new 450's.

my bike had what you americans would describe as a canook pipe on it. noisier than your's but about as restricted as a WB pipe at it's quietest. so the 150MJ i ran would be about right for an open pipe at 4,500ft.

160MAJ

155MJ

EKP needle

35PJ

45/50 PAJ

smidgen of APJ

same starter jet as mine-probably. but because i can't remember a single reply once, ever to the request "what does it do on choke" i can't tell you!

good luck

Taffy

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Does ANYONE'S bike actually snap to life instead of die when snapping the throttle in neutral? I've messed with the fuel screw and the acc. pump screw a lot with no improvement whatsoever.

Why do you care how the bike behaves in neutral? This does not mimic any riding situation I can think of.

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So Taffy... Can you snap your throttle at idle and not make the engine stall? Are you saying that the needle is the cause of the stalling? :)

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Hick- I'm trying to make the bike more responsive when I snap the throttle for wheelies. I believe that these two problems are related because the bike stalls when doing this from idle. It gets better when the rpm is higher, but never goes totally away until about (guessing here) 5000 to 6000 rpm. From then on up it is fine, but that is not the rpm I typically have the engine at when riding. I like to have the rpm a lot lower... about 3000 to 4000 rpm. This is the rpm in which I'm trying to get really good response.

So to answer your question: yes, this has everything to do with RIDING, not just messing around while stopped. When riding in a high gear around idle rpm, grabbing a handful of throttle does the same thing as the kill button for a couple of seconds. :)

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Taffy is the man to talk to. It's not JUST the needle straight, but the combination of pilot, pilot air, and needle.

Get the PAS from sudco or whoever, and some pilot jets and experiment. When you get the PJ/PAS/needle right you won't belive how low you can lug it.

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When riding in a high gear around idle rpm, grabbing a handful of throttle does the same thing as the kill button for a couple of seconds. :)

At your altitude I'm sure you are too rich. Your problem with idle to 1/4 throttle, for example, is going to be the pilot/idle/needle straight.

If it were me, I would be one size leaner on the pilot, main, clip and needle straight (almost) before I ever rode it. Unless you are at pretty cool temps I'm sure you are too rich.

Here is the needle I would try first, Yamaha PN:

5TA-14916-VR-00

Or maybe this one, a bit leaner still off the pilot:

5TA-14916-VS-00

Take this w/ a grain of salt, because I don't own a 450. But I'm sure you will like any change on any jet that is in the direction of leaner. Try a 40 pilot (assuming a 42 is stock) and reset the idle mix first. That is probably 80% of your problem.

Hope this helps.

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