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coreyl

screwed up the oil filter cover bolt again need ideas

20 posts in this topic

i got the timecert installed and it work untill i noticed that there was a slow leak coming fron the cover. i tightened the bolt a little more and it didnt have too much resistence still leaked so i tried to take it out now the bolt just moves in the threads and i cant get it out. does anyone have any ideas? should i just take it to the machine shop? i need it fixed by spring break (one week) fixed one problem and the nmade another:banghead:

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It sounds like you didn't install the Time-Sert deep enough to restore the original depth of the hole the bolt shoulder runs in and the bolt bottomed out on the insert before it clamped the cover down. I believe I mentioned this to you.

Nevertheless, at this point, I think you'd be wise to take it to a shop and have someone fix it for you.

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i drilled the hole and i did the counter bore as deep as it would go and then inserted the time sert as deep as it would go and did the ball bearing mod

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i finally fixed it

for anyone else that has this problem if any one does, clamp the oil filter cover with a a pair of large vice grips and pull out very hard while to are unscrewing the bolt.

hopefully no one is as stupid as i am and you wont need this

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Now that I just got a 2000 YZ426 and reading all the mod threads about what I will need to do, I tried this. I had a old side case from a blown up 450f and wanted to check the angle for a tap to fix the metal shaving problem on the bolt threads. It took about 5min to do.

DSCN5343.jpg

DSCN5346.jpg

A 5/32 tap fit right in no problems, set screw right in. This was very easy and think it should work out fine.

Edited by socalhodaka

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Nice. But that doesn't relate to the repair of the stripped thread Corey has. It's a preventative measure to keep metal debris from causing the damage in the first place, but unless you already have the tap and set screw on hand, how is this better than the method I outlined here?:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

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Nice. But that doesn't relate to the repair of the stripped thread Corey has. It's a preventative measure to keep metal debris from causing the damage in the first place, but unless you already have the tap and set screw on hand, how is this better than the method I outlined here?:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

Right, it has nothing to do with the repair Corey has. My bad. It is a prevent measure as you outlined in your past post. I'm totally new to the modern 4 stoke type bike, my screen name tells that right. Hodaka. I will make sure I pick the right thread next time before I post as not to confuse anyone. I guess my excitement of getting a newer bike got the best of me, and after reading all the post I could on what I could do to this bike things started to get blurred with my judgment. Never did I say I had a better method then what you outlined, and yes I did have a tap and screw as well as a jacked up case from a blown up bike on hand, I didn't have a ball bearing from a bicycle shop floating around. Wow you kinda deflated my whole excitement of participating on the forum after the warm welcome and suggestions that where reply to me on my opening post on my new 2000 YZ426f.

Corey, please forgive me for this mini hijack of your post. I felt like I got it from the dad or something. Grayracer I'm fully sorry for my posting. But I never said it was better.

Thanks.

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Now that I just got a 2002 YZ426 and reading all the mod threads about what I will need to do, I tried this. I had a old side case from a blown up 450f and wanted to check the angle for a tap to fix the metal shaving problem on the bolt threads. It took about 5min to do.

DSCN5343.jpg

DSCN5346.jpg

A 5/32 tap fit right in no problems, set screw right in. This was very easy and think it should work out fine.

No offense Gray, but this looks like it is the easiest and cleanest fix yet. Nice job!!!!!!!

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No offense Gray, but this looks like it is the easiest and cleanest fix yet. Nice job!!!!!!!
Well, you can approach it either way you like, but if it's really cleaner, then Yamaha and the rest of the industry should stop using pressed in steel balls for this sort of thing (your bike came with at least 3 in the cylinder head, and all of those have oil pressure under them, forcing them outward, not over them, forcing them into their bores as the plug in the well does)

The screw will, of course do the job quite well, but screws are somewhat well known for their ability to unscrew themselves for one thing (but that could be avoided by running it in a bit deeper and staking over it). The other thing is that on the whole, most people are more likely to have an 11/64 drill bit than a 5/32 tap (which is a very odd screw size, BTW, are you sure it wasn't a 10/24 or 10/32?), and loose balls are less expensive and far easier to locate than small set screws if you have to shop for them. The fact is that I have both on hand and I chose a steel ball insert as the better choice, but do whatever you want.

To SCH, as for deflating your idea, that wasn't really my intention. However, if you look at the thread regarding this fix that I put up, there has been a segment of members here who have done nothing but offer "better" alternatives to it since I put it up, suggesting everything from screws to rivets to silicone sealer. The excuses fell mostly into two camps; fear of using a drill, and fear of the ball backing out, either of which are pretty weak at best. The whole thing got pretty old a long time ago, thanks.

Either method accomplishes the same thing, and if you have one on hand but not the other, then you can let that decide the matter for you if you choose. But if the tap and screw method takes 5 minutes, that's 5 times longer than seating the ball takes, so simpler it ain't. It isn't any "cleaner" either, but that's subjective. If it's what you prefer, go right ahead.

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They are both good ideas, i have a tap on hand but no set screw or ball bearing so im SOL

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i was lucky enough that i was able to just drill a little deeper and insert another time sert

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i was lucky enough that i was able to just drill a little deeper and insert another time sert

Way to go and stick with it on your repair, this is good for a 16 yr old. It would have been easy I guess to take it to a shop and pay for the repair as was suggested somewhere along the line. Heck I would bet most Yamaha shops would have just said your screwed and had you by a new case. So again, good for you.

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Ditto. Nothing like fixing it yourself! I never take my bike to the shop, it gets me in trouble sometimes but you don't learn by having the shop do your work for you!

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What you now need to be sure of is that the oil filter well drain port that crosses into the lower cover bolt hole that you just repaired is closed off by either the insert, or the bolt, or the combination of the two. This is important because their is a real potential for a loss of oil pressure system wide if an insert is placed only partially over this hole.

With the filter cover off, identify the drain hole. It is the smaller hole of the two at the bottom of the well, and the one on the left. You should be able to fill the hole with carb cleaner, gas, etc. and NOT have it drain away. If it does, try it with the bolt in place. If it still drains through, plug the hole as in this post:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

or the one above by SoCalHodaka.

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i did that in the beginning right after i striped the bolt while i was waiting for the timesert kit from ebay i did your ball bearing mod

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Just ordered a ball bearing off ebay (from a bmx steering bearing) should get them by monday so i can do the mod too. Last time i threaded the bolt it didn't feel good!

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i did that in the beginning right after i striped the bolt while i was waiting for the timesert kit from ebay i did your ball bearing mod
Then that's not a worry. :thumbsup:

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just to chime in, i only use the tap and set screw method. i cant stand drilling a hole that has a limited depth like you need to do on the check ball method.

even with the tubing over the drill bit, if it grabs and pulls in deeper than it should it drives into the bottom of the cover bolt hole.

i find it is way easier and cheaper to tap and insert the set screw with some red loctite.

never been a problem since i went to this method on my yzf's.

every lowes i have shopped at has a set screw drawer and taps in any size.

my local auto parts has taps and set screws in metric as well as sae.

both ways work but after i did the check ball method on my first yzf....all of my yzfs have been done with the tap and set screw method.

better in my humble opinion

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All of these methods acheive the same results - they are all good. :thumbsup:

But once the threads are stripped out, the best solution is to use the TimeCert method vs a helicoil.

To Greys point you must use the correct length to permanently fix the issue and you will never have particle issues with this again.

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