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Skotten

450 engine break in

12 posts in this topic

Ok so I read a few threads now concerning break in. I am concerned that it might not be broken in properly.

I ran the engine at idle for about five mins, gave it the odd rev, as you do with a new toy, but nothing more than quarter throttle jab.

I wheeled it into the garage and changed the tires to spike tires.

I then warmed up the motor and took it for a 200m blast but not more than a 3rd throttle, in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear.

I then parked it on the jeep and took it home. Keep in mind it was at least -10 that night.

I then had to get it up the icy hill to the house so I had to use 1st gear not more than quarter to half throttle for 5 mins. I shut it off, next day took it around the local mx track about 4 laps at not more than half throttle. (I gave up because of no front end traction crap enduro spiked tires) I took it out on some snow covered roads last week for about 30 mins at not more than 3rd of throttle could I now consider the bike broken in?? I changed the oil and filter last night. Do I need to go out now and ride it hard as hell?? or is it too lake or is it ok???

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have you ever seen this article ?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

i used this on my new husaberg 650 a few years ago. and when i did take the engine apart the rings had sealed perfectly, no leaks at all and ran great until the big end bearing failed.

used the same method on my rmz-450 last winter. haven't had to rebuild that 1 yet, but it runs great after 25h so i'm confident it worked on that bike to.

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I see you ran your rmz in, winter time what was the air temp then??

I read that article but I dont agree with

"If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again."

So does that mean when I put new rings in I have to re-hone the cylinder??

I hope it is run in now, confusion...

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I took it for a hard 20min thrash yesterday, still never got it out of third..... fast bike very fast. I got a feeling this is going to hurt me.......

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I see you ran your rmz in, winter time what was the air temp then??

I read that article but I dont agree with

"If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again."

So does that mean when I put new rings in I have to re-hone the cylinder??

I hope it is run in now, confusion...

The article is fairly accurate. The only point of disagreement with it that I have is that for practical purposes, the whole issue is made too much of. It just isn't all that critical for the typical rider.

The break in procedure is laid out in the manual. I normally fire them up, take a short spin on them (10 minutes) at < 40% of the engine's capabilities, come back make some adjustments and let it cool a bit while I check it over. Then take it for a half hour ride at not more than 80% capacity, but run it a bit harder; don't lug it around, take it easy, or baby it. Toward the end of the ride, bust into it a few times for a short burst. Bring it back, change the oil, and call the matter finished. It's broke in. Go ride it.

And yes, whenever you replace rings, you need to hone the cylinder:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4380759#post4380759

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I see you ran your rmz in, winter time what was the air temp then??

I read that article but I dont agree with

"If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again."

So does that mean when I put new rings in I have to re-hone the cylinder??

I hope it is run in now, confusion...

i think it was about -10°c or colder when i ran it the first time.

about an hour in a few runs at the local mx track.

had just recovered from a accident at the time so i didn't use that much throttle that time though :banana:

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Good !!! thanks guys for your input, I feel confident that it should be broken in, and will not burn oil ect. It´s the first bike I have ever had out of the box, and it was all the cash I had to get it. I just want it to be right. I guess it to stop worrying and get out on it.

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Just out of interest how many times can you hone a cylinder??? By the way gray the free length of my rear spring is 260 like you said fitted length is 252mm and I have a sag of 101mm whats the verdict??

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Using a ball hone properly, you should be able to hone it 2-3 times, possibly more, as very, very little material is actually removed by the hone. Of much greater concern is the wear condition of the bore when it is serviced. Refer to the manual when doing your inspection during any rebuild.

Sag is an individual setting. You have to work out what works best for you. It should be "about" 95-105mm with your weight on the pegs, and "about" 25-35mm under just its own weight.

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I guess I am in on the spring rating then, I guess its just to fiddle around with it, like I did with the CRF. As I said before I am a trials rider, and new to Mx, shame I started too late.... at 33 a veteran rider... veteran..... What happened to young and daring..

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my break in was less then scientific.

3 heat cycles in the garage.

Then to the track for about a 1 hour total ride time.

3 warm up laps, 5 medium laps after bike cool down. then 5 hard laps after bike cool down.

keep in mind a hard lap for me is the same as a pro rolling the track...

then putting new oil and filter in it, and a fresh air filter and calling it a day.

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