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rep

To HicK: Once more, por favor.

6 posts in this topic

Thanks for the advice, I was hoping you'd answer.

I am contemplating using Loctite High Strength Sleve Retainer to take up the slack in the crankshaft keyway and/or main gear splines. The key fits snug in the cb gear but there is some play in the keyway as well as between the splines and main gear.

The Loctite Sleve goo says it "restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies". Also says you can disassemble part by heating to 500 degrees and use a puller to separate.

Please stop me before I make a mess!

Don't know what else to do if the new key looks the same as the other and fits sloppy in the keyway.

thanks again

rep

p.s. The mangled lockwasher was only on one bent over.

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rep,

I have never used the Loctite product you mention, so I hesitate to comment, but it sure sounds like it would work.

If the key you have fits sloppily in the crank keyway I’d try a new one to see if this can’t be improved upon, any good automotive supply will have metric straight keys. If you go this route make sure the key is trimmed down to the proper length (it shouldn’t protrude out from under gear at all).

I would also encourage you to use a new lock washer. If you DO reuse the old one make sure you bend it back flush. And of course a quality torque wrench is a good idea.

Also, the play in the main gear sounds strange, it should fit pretty snug. You may consider replacing it (probably about $30).

Hope this helps!

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Originally posted by Hick:

rep,

I have never used the Loctite product you mention, so I hesitate to comment, but it sure sounds like it would work.

If the key you have fits sloppily in the crank keyway I’d try a new one to see if this can’t be improved upon, any good automotive supply will have metric straight keys. If you go this route make sure the key is trimmed down to the proper length (it shouldn’t protrude out from under gear at all).

I would also encourage you to use a new lock washer. If you DO reuse the old one make sure you bend it back flush. And of course a quality torque wrench is a good idea.

Also, the play in the main gear sounds strange, it should fit pretty snug. You may consider replacing it (probably about $30).

Hope this helps!

Thanks again,

Is it possible this is normal play? The sloppiness is before I torque the nut. Most of it goes away when I finger tighten it. Just seems like a lot of play. No wear showing on the main gear or crank splines but some discoloration that looks like its been heated. Would you be able to see wear on the gear or splines? Should there be play after only 250 miles?

In regard to the cb drive gear, I ordered a new key from Yamaha but my concern is the crank keyway. Don't know if a different key will help because it fits in the gear snug.

rep

[This message has been edited by rep (edited 12-21-2000).]

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rep,

You make some good points and without being there all I can say is use your best judgement. What you consider to be “some play” may look to me like “fits perfect!”

I (and others) had the same discoloration, maybe some kind of assembly lube or something (?), not sure.

However, with a new key I can say for sure that my CB drive gear, when installed just by itself (no main gear and no nut) could not be moved at all. This despite the chunk that got taken out of the keyway when the original key got chewed up. If there is any available play the CB will rock to and fro and this will eventually cause more key & keyway damage (and worse). So keep an eye on things.

What does your keyway look like? If it is damaged maybe you should call a crank rebuilder to see if this can be repaired or replaced/rebuilt. I think Falicon Cranks rebuilds cranks, they seem to be mostly 4 cyl. road bike oriented but it’s a start…

Hope this helps and good luck with your scoot.

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Originally posted by Hick:

rep,

You make some good points and without being there all I can say is use your best judgement. What you consider to be “some play” may look to me like “fits perfect!”

I (and others) had the same discoloration, maybe some kind of assembly lube or something (?), not sure.

However, with a new key I can say for sure that my CB drive gear, when installed just by itself (no main gear and no nut) could not be moved at all. This despite the chunk that got taken out of the keyway when the original key got chewed up. If there is any available play the CB will rock to and fro and this will eventually cause more key & keyway damage (and worse). So keep an eye on things.

What does your keyway look like? If it is damaged maybe you should call a crank rebuilder to see if this can be repaired or replaced/rebuilt. I think Falicon Cranks rebuilds cranks, they seem to be mostly 4 cyl. road bike oriented but it’s a start…

Hope this helps and good luck with your scoot.

I used the Locktite 640 High Strength Sleeve Retainer. The key was sloshing around in it as I was fitting the cb gear. I torqued the main gear to the crankshaft to 60 ft/lb to get the lockwasher flat to fit exactly square with the nut. The manual says 54 ft/lb but as you probably know the bevel on the crank fits up against a collar on the nut. Do you think an extra 6 lbs will place undue stress on the bearings? How finicky are these bombs?

Thanks for all the help.

rep

p.s. This is really good therapy, can you meet for over at www.unrequitedloves.com and help me with this darn fixation with Anna Nicole Smith?

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Originally posted by rep:

Do you think an extra 6 lbs will place undue stress on the bearings? How finicky are these bombs?

I doubt it. I’ve abused mine several times with a ¾” drive air-impact at 125 psi. This is also the method I used to install a new crank so I don’t think you can hurt it with a torque wrench unless you are really trying hard.

As for Anna Nicole, I like full-figured women and all, but dang. I have a rule (okay, okay, call it a guideline) about women who outweigh me, and I’m only good for about 175…

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