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aedwards07

2010 Problem (cam cover leak)

103 posts in this topic

Well found my first problem with my 2010.At right around 38 hours the bike started to spit oil out the little spark plug weep hole and out the valve cover gasket.So I pulled the valve cover off and saw the gasket was ripped from when the factory installed it.GREAT.

So I ordered one and put some yamabond on it hopeing to seal it for the time being until the new one comes in.Has this happened to anyone else?I had 2 rips in mine.One around the spark plug hole and another one in the outer part of the seal right next to the spark plug.

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Exact same thing happened to mine last weekend. Oil was coming out of the hole side of cylinder, to all over right side of the bike and my boots. Took a tank off, looked into a plug hole, and could see the head gasket sticking out, and the hole was full of oil. I didn't take the head cover off, so not sure it it's lipped or not. Ordered head cover gasket, and install it this week.

Seems like head cover bolts were on too tight like every other bolts on this bike. When new, I had to use an impact wrench to take off steering head bolts because it was way too tight.

We joke that those temp Brazilian workers who work at blue factory have no idea what the hell they were doing, and just tighten the shit out of everything.....

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I will add another one to that list, my mates let go last sunday at a race meet, 1 month old, and no spare gaskets in Australia yet, he's pissed.

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The cam cover is held down by 3 bolts on the '10 model. The two on the left of the plug hole look a great deal like those on the earlier models, while the right side bolt is longer.

On the older bikes, the bolts are shouldered so that they can be tightened metal-to-metal, allowing them to hold more solidly, without compressing the gasket beyond a certain point, and thus making it impossible to crush the gasket by over torquing the bolts.

By the looks of things, the same concept is being employed on the '10. However, it may be that the lengths of one or more of the bolts/shoulders are wrong, or that the gasket was made too thick, if you want to look at it that way, or that the washers under the bolts (seals, actually) may be too thick. The fault could also be in the machining of the height of the gasket surface on the head, or the cam cover. Either way, from these reports, it would appear the gasket is being crushed excessively, and that should not be possible.

My advice to all of you, regardless of the time you have on the bike, is to report the matter to your dealer, and to Yamaha , if you can figure out how to contact them. That way, when a correction is made you will more easily qualify for it as a factory adjustment.

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Hi, I had oil coming out that hole on Sunday which was our first race of season and I've only done 3hrs on bike.... A little dissapointing but thankfully nothing too bad.

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The cam cover is held down by 3 bolts on the '10 model. The two on the left of the plug hole look a great deal like those on the earlier models, while the right side bolt is longer.

On the older bikes, the bolts are shouldered so that they can be tightened metal-to-metal, allowing them to hold more solidly, without compressing the gasket beyond a certain point, and thus making it impossible to crush the gasket by over torquing the bolts.

By the looks of things, the same concept is being employed on the '10. However, it may be that the lengths of one or more of the bolts/shoulders are wrong, or that the gasket was made too thick, if you want to look at it that way, or that the washers under the bolts (seals, actually) may be too thick. The fault could also be in the machining of the height of the gasket surface on the head, or the cam cover. Either way, from these reports, it would appear the gasket is being crushed excessively, and that should not be possible.

My advice to all of you, regardless of the time you have on the bike, is to report the matter to your dealer, and to Yamaha , if you can figure out how to contact them. That way, when a correction is made you will more easily qualify for it as a factory adjustment.

The reason I/m chiming in cuz I will be going in the morning to pick my 450 up at the shop. Just what exactly does that mean that i high lighted in your quote Grey?

Does it mean they will pay for you a gasket and the dealer where you got it to fix it? Will Yamaha come up with a new gasket or different kind of bolt to solve the problem and the dealer will fix it?

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Maybe. Definitely maybe. But if you don't report the problem, they will almost certainly ignore you later on.

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It basically means IF yamaha admits a production problem then you will get reimbursed if you already bought it or will be elligable to get a new one.

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well i have ashit load of hrs on mine i need to check the tuner. ill check later but the bike was at race tech and mike sleeter did alot of testing for the sus on it i need a new top end feelin alittle slower but no oil out of mine. and i had one of the first ones.

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My advice to all of you, regardless of the time you have on the bike, is to report the matter to your dealer, and to Yamaha , if you can figure out how to contact them. That way, when a correction is made you will more easily qualify for it as a factory adjustment.

Does anyone know how to contact Yamaha via email to file a report? I want to send pictures. I've looked all over their website and all I've found is an 800 number.

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I called Yamaha customer service Japan, and the lady on the phone know nothing about it. will let my dealer know what's going on later.

I don't really care to make it a big deal though. if my new gasket solves the problem, I'm ok. I just wanna fix it and go ride again. Parts recall on dirtbike always happens in US first, and then comes back to Japan, like a Y-pipe recall on 06? CRF250.

meantime, here is what my gasket looks like.

fcf9.jpg?BCTpi8LB59T1Jw46

a rip around plug hole

8600.jpg?BCTpi8LB6p5Vd2jh

52af.jpg?BCTpi8LBiS8yXygx

bolts

inside

7552.jpg?BCTpi8LB0C7UblKu

28fa.jpg?BCjsk8LBaRfRvFXp

New gasket

8078.jpg?BCjsk8LBzDvTlMk8

Looks the same as what I have on my bike. so I might have the same problem again....:ride:

5f76.jpg?BCjsk8LBjYA4k5pk

Back side.

Edited by TokioMX

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Hey thats right where mines riped.Go figure.So I take it your supposed to cut that extra piece off in the middle?

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... I take it your supposed to cut that extra piece off in the middle?
The long bridge between the plug hole and the half moons has to be cut away unless the gasket goes on the head before the cam chain is installed, yes.

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Hey thats right where mines riped.Go figure.

Maybe heat buildup around a plug hole is much grater on 2010 than regular forward slanted motor, because it gets less airflow to the head. I don't know....

I let my dealer know about this. meantime, I'll just install a new gasket with liquid seal, and see.

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Maybe heat buildup around a plug hole is much grater on 2010 than regular forward slanted motor, because it gets less airflow to the head.
Uh, no.

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my sons done this,looks like the valve cover surface could be to thin or to sharp and is cutting the rubber gasket and it squirts out the plug side allowing oil to enter the plug area

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I haven't gotten my '10 yet but I guess I'll check the torque on the valve cover bolts when I put on my hour meter and doing other set up work before going through a full heat cycle. Sounds like some of the bolts (like also the axel) may be done too tight. I know when I do a top end, I have to retorque the cylinder and head after a heat cycle. They do expand and move that much, maybe that's causing this problem.

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I have this bike also, but i have not got a chance to use it yet. my question is should i do anything before i use it to prevent a problem at the track?

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