removing pivot bearing and bushing on swing arm

05 EXC 525. I was taking off my rear shock today and noticed that I have upwards of 1/2 inch of play in my pivot bearing and bushings where the shock connects to the swing arm. Im certain that this has to be too much play so I ordered a new bearing and the bushings. My question is this...how do you get the stock ones out/new ones in? Are they pressed in? It seems like they may be.

If you dont have access to a press, how do you remove them? I was thinking Id use a C-clamp and some sockets to create my own sort of press. Anyone have any ideas, suggestions, etc.?

Thanks in advance

Jake

remove the outer seals, they come out hard. Then use the c-clamp and sockets, a hammer and socket or even a piece of all thread and sockets. Look up the F bushing from Synergy seals for your next one, easier to do and last a long time.

too late. already ordered a stock replacement. any tips for getting the outer seals out? what tools did you use?

just did this on my 450. Are you doing the heim (where the shock hooks to the swingarm AND the main pivot bearings (swingarm at the engine). My heim I was able to smack the seals out with a screwdriver and a hammer. Removing the bearings and the heim joint was a PAIN!!! Bent the c clamp. Had to use a large bench vice to get enough pressure to push them out. Used the socket method to press them out with the vice. I could not believe how siezed mine were, but they did come out. Pressed them back in with the c clamp. was not hard at all. The hardest issue I had was getting the swingarm bolt out. It was frozen solid in there. Took 3 days of soaking with pb blaster and smacking with a hammer. Finally had to take 3 full swings with a 6# sledge and on the 3rd swing, the bolt moved 1/4 inch.. Then blasted, smacked again till it came out. Lesson learned......... grease them suckers on a regular basis.!!!

I used an old screw driver for the seals

A socket of suitable size, hammer, and something on the other side to support and take the force (remove the swing-arm, don't hit the bearing with the swing-arm still in the frame, time to grease the whole system anyway...)

Im only doing the heim joint on the swing arm. I got the seals and bearing all out fairly easily. Im a little weary about putting the new ones in. I imagine I will put them in with the "C" clamp, otherwise Ill have to take it to a shop and have them press the new ones in and Id much rather not do that. I think with the swingarm all nice and cleaned up the new seals and bearing may go in nice and easy with a fresh dose of grease. We'll see.

it should go easy, use a anti-seize on the outside of the bearing where it touches the swingarm.

will do, and Ill let you know how it goes, thanks ya'll!

If Im not mistaken the bearings come lubricated with white lithium grease and the ydont recommend greasing them once installed. Please correct me if Im wrong. Anyhow, if this is the case, does anyone think that I should just lubricate the bejeezus out of the thing with more white lithium grease before putting it in, or should I stick to my original plan and goober it all up with some nice waterproof bel-ray sweetness?

Im going to put the new pivot bearing in in a few hours, so, if someone can chime in soon, that'd be huge. thanks in advance.

Jake

Sorry I can't give you any advice on greasing the bearing. I replaced mine a few months back with a different kind of spherical bearing as an experiment. I'm not using any lube and I made a different arrangement for the seals and the bushings. So far I have about 4-500 miles on it without any problems. I haven't pulled the shock to check the bearing yet but it doesn't have any play. If it proves to work out I may put together a kit and sell it here if that's allowed. Stock replacements are a bit pricey and don't really last all that long.

yeah, no shit. 55 bucks for a stock replacement is a little outrageous I thought.

Your expecting the installation being easier with everything cleaned up makes sense to me. I installed the F-bushing and installation was wasy. I did use the makeshift socket/c-clamp set up you mentioned just to make sure it wasn't cocked as I slid it into position. Also, per mfg recommendation (and as seen on other sites) I coated the bolt shoulder (NOT THE THREADS) with Bel-Ray waterproof grease before inserting it. After putting the bolt in place, I put some blue loctite on the bolt/nut threads and trqued it to spec. Hope this helps.

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