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tech24

scotts stabilizer questions?

34 posts in this topic

im not getting much help in general so ill post this over here.

bike: 2004 yz450f

I am in the process of ordeing pro-circuit triple clamps and a scotts damper.

Has anyone used this combination on any of their bikes? Is there any fitment issues?

I also need to know bar position, does the pro-circuit lamps have more than one position? If so what is the most commonly used position?

Can I still use the rubber inserts or do I have to put in the solid ones?

Thanks for for you help!

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Call scotts and they will have your answers.

+1 They are gurus at that kind of stuff. We are a Scott's dealer, so we inface with them a lot on fitment issues of combinations like this and they are quite helpful.

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+1 They are gurus at that kind of stuff. We are a Scott's dealer, so we inface with them a lot on fitment issues of combinations like this and they are quite helpful.

I shot them an e-mail, we're busy at work and get bitched at for being on the phone. I'll try and call when I get caught up.

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I shot them an e-mail, we're busy at work and get bitched at for being on the phone. I'll try and call when I get caught up.

They are not fast at email, just so you know. And they are open I believe until 7pm PST. Don't be surprised if it takes 2-3 days at least to get an email reply. They are phone guys in my experience.

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I have a Scotts top mount damper on my '06. Before that, it was on my '03, and I'm convinced it saved my ass more than once on that bike. I will not ride without one anymore if it can be helped.

I don't know how the PC clamp is set up, and I certainly wouldn't know how you like your bars positioned. I see it as the wisest choice to get that part sorted out before buying your damper mount.

The reason they need to know the bar position is that the damper needs to be mounted so that the center line of the damper pivot shaft is centered over the steering stem. The part that is adjusted for differences here is the handlebar top clamp, which the damper itself bolts directly to. The distance from the bars back to the stem then becomes the question.

The good thing is that if you are using a standard damper on top mounting, and you do decide to relocate the bars either forward or back on the clamp, you need only order a replacement for the bar clamp. If you use a SUB mount, you can still do the same thing, but the damper mount in that case is the lower half of the bar mount, and is more expensive.

So, as I said, it would be prudent to hold off on the damper until you get the rest of the clamp/handlebar picture cleared up, then go from there. One thing certain, the damper is worth every cent.

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I have a Scotts top mount damper on my '06. Before that, it was on my '03, and I'm convinced it saved my ass more than once on that bike. I will not ride without one anymore if it can be helped.

I don't know how the PC clamp is set up, and I certainly wouldn't know how you like your bars positioned. I see it as the wisest choice to get that part sorted out before buying your damper mount.

The reason they need to know the bar position is that the damper needs to be mounted so that the center line of the damper pivot shaft is centered over the steering stem. The part that is adjusted for differences here is the handlebar top clamp, which the damper itself bolts directly to. The distance from the bars back to the stem then becomes the question.

The good thing is that if you are using a standard damper on top mounting, and you do decide to relocate the bars either forward or back on the clamp, you need only order a replacement for the bar clamp. If you use a SUB mount, you can still do the same thing, but the damper mount in that case is the lower half of the bar mount, and is more expensive.

So, as I said, it would be prudent to hold off on the damper until you get the rest of the clamp/handlebar picture cleared up, then go from there. One thing certain, the damper is worth every cent.

Thats the info I was looking for, thanks. I'm not sure how the bar position is setup on the pro-circuit I assume its reversable or something. I hope I can use the rubber mounts to help out my arms a bit. Hopefully I will get a hold of scotts here soon. My only concer is I would really have to hate to grind on a set of $600 triple clamps....I'll guess we'll see.

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My only concer is I would really have to hate to grind on a set of $600 triple clamps....I'll guess we'll see.
I'm not sure why you're worried about that. There is absolutely no modification to the clamp ever required that I know of.

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I'm not sure why you're worried about that. There is absolutely no modification to the clamp ever required that I know of.

On the install instruction is says some top clamps need grinding for clearance. The only one it says for sure is the stock WR top clamp. I doubt I will have to.

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Check out brp triple clamps on www.brpmoto.com

I have just fitted a set of their clamps to my YZ400F and found them very responsive to email queries. Also their clamps are excellent quality.

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They emailed me back and gave me a measurement instruction shit to find the correct bar clamp. So I guess its time to figure out what tripple clamps I want for sure and fork out the money.

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There again, get the clamps on the bike and really get settled with the bar position before ordering your damper.

Yeah thats the plan, I should have them tuesday but the bikes in pieces. However looking at the pictue of the clamps there is only 1 position.

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...looking at the pictue of the clamps there is only 1 position.
A lot of times, even when there is a single set of holes in the top clamp, the bar clamps are offset, so that reversing them moves the bar position 10-15mm.

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A lot of times, even when there is a single set of holes in the top clamp, the bar clamps are offset, so that reversing them moves the bar position 10-15mm.

Ok thanks, I thought they worked something like that.

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what part needs replaced if I decide to change bar position? I assume 31. I might just get so I have it.

254.jpg

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Nope, no part of the actual stabilizer is changed. The adjustment for differing handlebar offsets relative to the stem is made by changing the handle bar clamp (assuming a standard mount):

286sm.jpg

The two small holes between the four bar clamping holes are what the damper bolts to. The off set of these two holes relative to the main four is what gets changed. The part is available by itself, so that you can change things later if you like, but it's $65.

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gotcha, damn I'd really like file down my weld on the frame and check the fitment before I have it powdercoated guess I'll have to spend the extra dough if thats the case.

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gotcha, damn I'd really like file down my weld on the frame and check the fitment before I have it powdercoated guess I'll have to spend the extra dough if thats the case.
OK. I see what your predicament is now.

If it was me, and there were two bar positions available on the clamp, I'd order the kit to fit the farthest forward one. I think you'll be OK with that, and then you can fit the damper pin mount to your frame before you coat it, as planned.

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