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batwing

clutch basket ?

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I've decided to change to hinson clutch basket in my 426 due to all the chronic problems. Can anyone assist me with installation. Possibly some step by step type stuff. Im not very mechanically inclined. Thanks!

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I have a Hinson sitting on my workbench waiting for installation as well so I'll be monitoring this post for advice. I've read the section in the manual several times and it doesn't appear that difficult or intricate of an installation. I DO know that we have to drill out the rivets that hold on the gear on the back side of the old basket and bolt it on with the Hinson supplied Allen head bolts to the new basket. I want to inspect the main gear key behind the basket as well since there have been some reported failures with that key.

[This message has been edited by Boit (edited 10-27-2000).]

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Last issue of MXA had a real good article with step by step instruction with pictures on putting a Hinson on a YZf. I'm pretty sure it will still be on newstands but not for long if it still is...

Mike

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I’ll try to give you some step-by-step directions with the disclaimer that I may forget a step. So it would be good if others who have done this check for gaps and correct…

1) Remove brake pedal

2) Remove clutch cover. I left the bolts in their holes (in cover) because there are two or three different lengths.

3) Remove pressure plate (six bolts and springs).

4) Pull out round actuator and actuating rod.

5) Remove plates. I try to keep them in order but this may not matter.

6) Bend locking tab on washer flat. I use a chisel, first the sharp end then a few taps with the blunt end to flatten the tab.

7) Remove hub nut. I cheat and use an air-impact. You may need an extra set of hands if you don’t cheat. One way to hold shaft while you “break” hub nut off is to spin rear wheel so that bead lock is just above swingarm, then place a tire iron on top of swingarm but below bead lock bolt. With bike in a tall gear the shaft should be held firm enough to allow you to get the hub nut off. I’ve never tried this method so I can’t vouch for its effectiveness, but I would be careful not to bend your bead lock.

8) Remove nut, washer, clutch boss, and splined washer behind boss.

9) Remove basket.

(There is more than one way to skin a cat but the following is how I skinned mine)

10) With basket right side up, take an SAE drill bit that is just smaller than the rivet heads that protrude slightly on the inside of the basket. I can’t remember what size I used, just that it was larger than the rivet shaft but smaller than the rivet head and was SAE, not metric.

11) Drill out the rivet heads. You should be able to easily tell when the bit penetrates the head and makes contact with the harder clutch basket underneath, that is when you stop drilling each rivet. With rivets gone the basket is worthless, but you need to reuse the backing plate, that is why I’d rather drill from the basket side.

12) Separate backing plate and basket. You may have to drive a few rivets out with a punch, but if you’ve properly drilled the rivet heads things should come apart relatively easy.

13) Install damper springs, backing plate and gearset to Hinson basket. Use red loctite on supplied fasteners. Get them on as tight as possible.

14) Voila. Install goes: basket, splined washer, boss, lock washer, nut (bend tab back onto edge of PROPERLY TORQUED nut), plates (starting and ending with friction plate), rod, fitting on end of rod that I called actuator earlier, pressure plate and then clutch springs and PROPERLY TORQUED spring bolts.

To get the basket to mesh with kick idle, pump, and main gears try rotating the basket one notch at a time while applying pressure to see if it is aligned. Be patient, eventually it will go on. I promise.

Make sure it mates completely, it should be all the way inside the right side cover (obviously).

Before you reinstall you may want to check for clearance between rivets (or replacement bolts on Hinson) and the case and pump drive gear. Look for signs of contact with case on the rear head bolt boss (area around where this bolt is threaded into the cases, it protrudes out slightly). If you can get a finger in there check for play between counterbalancer drive gear (behind main gear on crankshaft) and shaft, sometimes this gear wears out the straight key that holds it on.

Hope this helps more than it hurts…

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Thanks a lot Hick, This is just what I was waiting for. I've printed your instructions and will have them next to me as I do the replacement.

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I used a mototool with a grinding wheel and ground off the rivet flats and then punched out the rivits with a center punch, otherwise did everthing as Hick described.

On my WR 400 My Hinsion bolt heads interferred with and contacted the bottom inside of the case where the right rear head bolt pocket is. This left some stuff in the oil filter until it clearanced itself. When I subsequently installed Heavy Duty clutch springs I removed the basket and ground down each allen bolt head holding the Hinson basket together just a little to provide additional clearance margin.

Clark

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I also took a grinder (carefully) to the allen heads when I was done because my stock basket’s rivets were contacting the case in the exact same place (and I figured they’re never coming back off anyway). I was unfortunate enough to later ruin a case and thought it was interesting that the replacement part had an indention cast into it in the exact place where the clutch basket rivets were rubbing.

In my earlier post I forgot to mention that there are two small dowels that go in clutch cover bolt holes, so keep an eye out for those.

Med,

I don’t recall but I think the Hinson basket is about $225.

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