Turning Radius

[Gary jp4]

I'm on my 11th 200 since 99 (#12 on order). On the older bikes the forks hit the radiator cap and/or the CDI box, not much you could do about it.

Just for the record, there is plenty you can do about it. That's what this thread is about.

On the newer bikes, the rad cap has be relocated (inboard) so it isn't the limiting factor, now the forks hit the louvers and have a slightly better sweep angle, but still not very good.

I have solved the problem by using Flatland Racing radiator guards. They sit pretty close to the rad, I have my adjuster bolts almost all the way in, big improvement on the sweep angle.

Oh, and out here in the West, the trails aren't tight, its all those big rocks right next to the trail that are tight...

Yeah, everything is big and commands awe and respect. I saw a trail between Gunnison and Aspen CO with a big shear drop off (cliff) on one side, like a thousand feet, and a wall on the other. There was a big rock in the middle and you had to go around one way or the other. There was more room on the side with the drop off, but folks were squeezing there jeeps between the rock and the wall to stay away from the drop off. There was paint and metal streaks on the rock and the wall to commemorate their choice

Gary

[dirtbeater]

I am sure everywhere is like this but within two hours from my house I can hit desert, sand dunes, double track, single track, open fields. So I think people generalize "open tracks out west." Sorry for the not related info.

[Mabin-300]

Learn to flick turn and couner steer ?

[delleetodd]

I cut out the upper corner on each of my plastic radiator guards so the forks have more room to swing. This allowed me to turn my steering stops all the way in. You can also get radiator guards that fit tighter to the rads but I went the cheap route. 2008

[nobade]

Yes, this is an old thread but I need to do something about my new to me '02 200 so I can make it through the switchbacks. Not bad going uphill but downhill and having the trail turn tighter than the bike can is a real pain. Thanks for the suggestions to all who have posted on this thread, and I have to ask, are there any other new solutions out there? Time to get busy and relocate some parts! 

[Sir falls alot]

Following

[sbest]

I posted this to another thread, but relocating the CDI box on these earlier bikes lets you crank the left side stop in and protects the CDI.

Stock CDI location on the steering stem:

 

The parts you gotta make:

 

Where you gotta put them:

 

What it looks like when installed:

 

Original turn stop:

 

Turn stop when completed:

 

Hope this helps.

 

Steve

[slideleft]

Get the new chassis or adjustable offset triple clamps.

[sbest]

Get the new chassis or adjustable offset triple clamps.

 

Pick up a new chassis?

Isn't that like really expensive and/or work intensive? 

 

Offset triple clamps? 

Won't that seriously affect steering geometry and handling? 

[Creeature]

Offset triple clamps?

Won't that seriously affect steering geometry and handling?

The offset clamps are pricey and you can switch between 20 or 22mm. The SX comes with 22 and the xc/w models come with 20 from the factory. The change isn't all that "serious" although it is noticeable, it's hard to describe what it does.

Ktm states "20mm will give you better driving stability on fast courses. 22mm offset will improve handling in tight curves".

I prefer the 20 offset on my sx and noticed that I go through front tires faster than rears after I made that change. Front feels more planted with the 20. It also feels like it turns in quicker IMO regardless of what Ktm says... Don't really ever run the 22 anymore..

I'm sure neither offset effect "turning radius"

Edited November 24, 2016 by Casing-daily

[slideleft]

Pick up a new chassis?

Isn't that like really expensive and/or work intensive? 

 

Offset triple clamps? 

Won't that seriously affect steering geometry and handling? 

 

The newer bikes so much better than the older ones. Since its way to much work to spoon a old motor into a new frame get a newer bike.

  Yes KTM sells adjustable clamps. So do you want to go fast in a straight line or turn.

[slideleft]

The offset clamps are pricey and you can switch between 20 or 22mm. The SX comes with 22 and the xc/w models come with 20 from the factory. The change isn't all that "serious" although it is noticeable, it's hard to describe what it does.

Ktm states "20mm will give you better driving stability on fast courses. 22mm offset will improve handling in tight curves".

I prefer the 20 offset on my sx and noticed that I go through front tires faster than rears after I made that change. Front feels more planted with the 20. It also feels like it turns in quicker IMO regardless of what Ktm says... Don't really ever run the 22 anymore..

I'm sure neither offset effect "turning radius"

 

You can get them 20 or 22 or adjustable 20/22. Fixed offset are not as expensive as the adjustable ones.

[sbest]

The newer bikes so much better than the older ones. Since its way to much work to spoon a old motor into a new frame get a newer bike.

  Yes KTM sells adjustable clamps. So do you want to go fast in a straight line or turn.

 

So I have a 2001 KTM 380. I happen to like the kick ass power and light weight of the 380.

KTM doesn't make them any more.

So how does advice to go out and spend $10,000 on a bike that is not available help? 

I happen to have 1 kid in college, another going next year and drive a 4yr old high mileage vehicle. 

I really like the 380. So let's hear practical solutions to the problems discussed here. 

 

Solutions like "Buy a new bike" come from a place of "More money than brains".

Often not much of either. 

 

Steve

[slideleft]

So I have a 2001 KTM 380. I happen to like the kick ass power and light weight of the 380.

KTM doesn't make them any more.

So how does advice to go out and spend $10,000 on a bike that is not available help? 

I happen to have 1 kid in college, another going next year and drive a 4yr old high mileage vehicle. 

I really like the 380. So let's hear practical solutions to the problems discussed here. 

 

Solutions like "Buy a new bike" come from a place of "More money than brains".

Often not much of either. 

 

Steve

 

Your personal problems didn't come into play with my response to the OP.

[sbest]

Your personal problems didn't come into play with my response to the OP.

 

You missed the point...   I'll try to make it simpler next time.

but then, what am I even doing trying to make it with you...   

 

So, sorry, carry on with your gifted advice.  

Edited November 24, 2016 by sbest

[nobade]

I ended up getting some rubber spacers from the hardware store to space the radiators out about 3/8 inch. That helped, I could adjust the stops in some. Next step is to relocate the CDI. I made a plate that will allow it to live in the air box, but need to get some connectors to make up a longer wiring harness to reach. That will allow much tighter left turns and not beat up the throttle cable in the process. 

[thefullmonte]

http://appliedrace.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1311

 

I used these on my 05. I wasn't personally after tighter turning radius, but it was a nice side effect. 

[Sir falls alot]

I posted this to another thread, but relocating the CDI box on these earlier bikes lets you crank the left side stop in and protects the CDI.

Stock CDI location on the steering stem:

The parts you gotta make:

Where you gotta put them:

What it looks like when installed:

Original turn stop:

Turn stop when completed:

Hope this helps.

Steve

old post but I took your advice and relocated my CDI. I used tough velcro and a few zip ties and I was surprised how secure and clean it all turned out.

[Sir falls alot]

Hey need some ktm help. What's the newest year front fender I can put on a 2000 ktm 300? Is it the 2010 or 2012 that fits. Thanks