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wack23

09 YZ 450 Rear Wheel

8 posts in this topic

I believe I know the answer, but just want to make sure. I just bought an 09 YZ 450 and I'm looking to get a spare rear wheel at an affordable price. I'm looking to buy used to save some $$$$$. In 09 Yamaha changed their rear wheel axle from 22mm to 25mm,my question is: Will a 06 to 08 rear wheel off a YZ 450 and a conversion kit, new spacers & bearings,work? or am I better off buying a new after market rear wheel? Does anyone know of a good after market wheel that won't break the bank?

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As far as I know, it will work. No need for different bearings. You just have to run the appropriate axle and blocks. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

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I just read this in an old "new for '09" article. My buddy suggested it when I was looking for supermoto wheels, but ended up finding talons.

The older wheels can be used with the smaller axle and blocks in the newer swingarm, but a spacer would be needed for the brake caliper carrier, and a washer to take up the extra length.

Also, a talon hub from earlier years can be used with a conversion kit, which is available from GYTR, that has larger bearings, spacers, and tube.

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As far as I know, it will work. No need for different bearings. You just have to run the appropriate axle and blocks. I'm sure someone else will chime in.
Not a very good idea, as this would leave 100% of the load of supporting the axle on the axle blocks, and thereby on the ledge that overhangs them, and none on the swing arm slot.

New bearings for an older hub will only work if the right bearings can be found, AND there is room in the center of the older 5ET hub for a larger center spacer.

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Not a very good idea, as this would leave 100% of the load of supporting the axle on the axle blocks, and thereby on the ledge that overhangs them, and none on the swing arm slot.

New bearings for an older hub will only work if the right bearings can be found, AND there is room in the center of the older 5ET hub for a larger center spacer.

Just stating what I have read in other posts. Not my "idea" and I wouldn't do it personally.

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Regardless of whose idea it is, you have my opinion of it. But, it might be "OK" for a street driven SM style application...barely.

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My opinion is that the load from the wheel is being placed on the axle, and when you tighten the blocks and swingarm together against the inner bearing races and tube, you essentially create one member. Very little load is placed on the top if the swingarm slot, which is only 10mm wide X the area the round axle touches it, a hairline. I've never seen notches worn into either the top of the swingarm slot, nor the axle from, pressure between the two. At least not on my bikes.

Of course, if one wanted to, two spacers with an O.D. 25mm, I.D. of 22mm, and 10mm wide could easily be made to fill the gap.

I only say this because earlier used wheels are much easier to come by than '09-'10 wheels. I know, I've been looking for an 18" for my '09. :banghead:

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My opinion is that the load from the wheel is being placed on the axle, and when you tighten the blocks and swingarm together against the inner bearing races and tube, you essentially create one member. Very little load is placed on the top if the swingarm slot, which is only 10mm wide X the area the round axle touches it, a hairline. I've never seen notches worn into either the top of the swingarm slot, nor the axle from, pressure between the two. At least not on my bikes.

Of course, if one wanted to, two spacers with an O.D. 25mm, I.D. of 22mm, and 10mm wide could easily be made to fill the gap.

You can say that if you like, but the axle is designed to be located vertically primarily by the slot in the swing arm, and secondarily by the axle bearing on the block, which in turn bears on the top ledge of the channel in which the block rides. Using an undersized axle takes the primary support mechanism out of the picture.

While it is true that the clamping force of the axle nut is an important element in the equation, it's purpose is to stabilize the assembly and resist forces that try to shift the axle around, not to be a load bearing member. A more obvious example of the differences in these two roles is seen in the fasteners that hold the rear sprocket in place. If the mounting holes here are allowed to become oversized, it becomes nearly impossible to keep the sprocket from loosening, regardless of how tight it is made, because the clamping force of the bolts is simply not effective at preventing the parts from shifting in shear.

You could, as you tried to say, make custom spacers having a 25mm extension to their outer ends, but that would complicate assembling the rear wheel, since the wheel with spacers would be wider than the swing arm.

The only structurally sound way to address this is to either convert the hub to accept a 25mm axle and be done with it, or make up a set of steel sleeves with a 25mm O.D. and a 22mm I.D., and press fit them into a pair of axle blocks to be used with the undersized axle. Use of a good grade of steel is critical, since the walls of the sleeve will only be 1.5mm (.059"). Any other means is just ... inadequate.

I only say this because earlier used wheels are much easier to come by than '09-'10 wheels. I know, I've been looking for an 18" for my '09. :banghead:
Without intending offense to you personally, this is the kind of surrender to convenience that leads to bad decisions. Putting something that you want ahead of what is technically correct is unwise, and often dangerous. I have an uncomfortable feeling that something the buyers of used '09's and '10's are going to have to look for is wallowed out swing arm slots and axle block channels because people just had to have their extra wheel on the cheap.

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