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stev0

slow trails, bike runs way hot

16 posts in this topic

on average my bike runs at about 80c but when things get tough and i crawl in 1st, my temp shoots up to 120-125c. If i get going, i can drop it down to 100-105c quickly

My biggest concern is that the bike then boils at the rear bottle. Should I keep going or stop?

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on average my bike runs at about 80c but when things get tough and i crawl in 1st, my temp shoots up to 120-125c. If i get going, i can drop it down to 100-105c quickly

My biggest concern is that the bike then boils at the rear bottle. Should I keep going or stop?

If your jetting is stock, you need to re-jet to remove the lean condition.

If your pipe and intake are still stock, you can benefit by doing the 'free mods' which will cool the motor down even more.

Read the 'stickys'.

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If your jetting is stock, you need to re-jet to remove the lean condition.

If your pipe and intake are still stock, you can benefit by doing the 'free mods' which will cool the motor down even more.

Read the 'stickys'.

Then when it still overheats you need a fan. On some of the terrain we ride , any bike without a fan will overheat.

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on average my bike runs at about 80c but when things get tough and i crawl in 1st, my temp shoots up to 120-125c. If i get going, i can drop it down to 100-105c quickly

My biggest concern is that the bike then boils at the rear bottle. Should I keep going or stop?

Agree with the jetting and exhaust info above to help in this. I have been on trails in Mexico in August and had the overflow bottle "perculate" on my '08 and have seen gas boil at the same time in a friend's '03. Sometimes hot is just hot. Personally, if I know that the trail is going to open up soon, it is probably best to keep going and get some airflow through there, the radiator and overflow are doing what they are supposed to be doing. If I know that there will be more of the same, it's time to stop for a few and let things cool down before proceeding.

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1+ on jetting, when stock I used to boil easy, after mods and JD jet kit and water wetter I never boil it anymore

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mylers radiators on mine (because I crash a lot and pretty much destroyed the stock ones) have helped a lot. I can actually let it idle for a few minutes without overheating now. I didn't measure the coolant capacity but they say 30% more I think.

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I have a Boyesen impeller and cover and a 1.6 rad cap and it's helped.

If it's still making power then keep moving, but if it starts missing and there isn't any fast riding ahead, best to shut her down.

I've boiled her almost dry in a race before. Believe me I wasn't the only one :moon:

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If it pushes water to the back, after I stall it. should I continue right there and there or should I leave it for a minute or two to let it cool ?

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If it pushes water to the back, after I stall it. should I continue right there and there or should I leave it for a minute or two to let it cool ?

If it's fast riding giver, but if it's going to be a few more miles of first gear walking then you might as well let her cool for a bit.

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but if it's going to be a few more miles of first gear walking then you might as well let her cool for a bit.

Under these conditions a fan is indispensable. In these conditions, even the exotic coolants will allow the engine to get way too hot without a fan.

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Well, if you 'crawl' a lot, drop a tooth on the counter-sprocket. I run a 13-49 final on my '06 now. I originally dropped the 14 for a 13-50 final drive. First gear was truly a tracor. I ride woods with single track and hill climbs, etc. The RPM has a chance to stay within the means of cooling in association with the lower gearing. Cheap investment for a counter sprocket. The WR has lots of wind to cover the big end.

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Check my prevoius posts re a fan fitting, I used a Spal 4 inch fan on the RHS rad, works a treat.

I ride in manila heat and traffic all the time ( 30C) and it now never overheats

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