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123BigcoopDawg576

DIY TurnTech Battery

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I have been getting quite a bit of PM's on how to build your own TurnTech battery so I figured it would be easier to just post up a DIY for everyone.

After doing ALOT of research, I was finally able to figure out what cells should be used. K2 Energy is the manufacturer of the cells you will want to use. You can buy the cells direct but I found the best prices from from Robotic Power Solutions. I highly recommend calling Robotic Power Solutions to place your order. I also recommend buying your braided wire and shrink wrap for them :moon:

***Please note how many cells you will need when ordering:

To build a 2.5amp battery you will need 4 cells = $48 bucks plus whatever else you buy

To build a 5.0amp battery you will need 8 cells = $96 bucks plus whatever else you buy

Now that you know who to buy your cells from, here is what cells you want to use:

After talking with K2 Energy, the cells we want to use are: LFP26650P Hi Power Rechargeable 3.2V 2500mAhrs

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The reason for this is the 2500mahrs power cell provides the most cranking amps :cheers: (If you don't believe me, call and talk with Dave at K2).

Once all your cells, braided wire and shrink wrap show up, its time to soldier your cells into a battery. I am not going to into detail on how to actually wire them up but here are a few picks of my first 2.5amp battery (its nothing special and looks like crap but it does work! :smirk:) ***Note this was not the final product :smirk:

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So in the end, I was able to build a TurnTech battery that doesn't look as nice as TurnTechs but it is every bit as functional for $51 bucks compared to $99+ shipping from TurnTech (Please note that when I bought my cells they were only 10.5 each...they are now 12 from Robotics). Hope this helps out those who want to save a few bucks and dont mind spend some time in the garage wiring up a few cells in to a DIY battery :lol:

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One thing I don't see in this that is extremely important with Lithium Ion, Lithium Polymer, and other lithium based batteries is a charge/discharge control board. There is a serious risk of fire and/or explosion with these batteries without such a board in the circuit with them. The boards limit the charging rate, maximum rate of discharge, perform cell-to-cell balancing, and have a thermal cut off built in. They are usually available from the same people who supply the cells.

Such boards are not necessarily required when using Ni-Cad or Ni-MH cells.

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One thing I don't see in this that is extremely important with Lithium Ion, Lithium Polymer, and other lithium based batteries is a charge/discharge control board. There is a serious risk of fire and/or explosion with these batteries without such a board in the circuit with them. The boards limit the charging rate, maximum rate of discharge, perform cell-to-cell balancing, and have a thermal cut off built in. They are usually available from the same people who supply the cells.

Such boards are not necessarily required when using Ni-Cad or Ni-MH cells.

Gray

You are correct. However the regulator will not allow the charge to exceed the limits of the cells so with the K2 cells it is not necessary :moon:

I attached the specs on the cells. The recommened charge voltage cut off is is 3.65 per cell so for a 12v batter that is 3.65 x 4 = 14.6 volts (the specs show a max of 4.1 per cell which is 16.4 volts)

I know that from all the DC regulators I have tested on my WR I have never seen anything higher than 14 volts.

K2 LFP 26650P.pdf

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Here is my version, not trying to steal your thread but just share info. A123 cells LIP04. E Bay $50.00 They run higher voltage though 3.5v per cell. Tried the 4 cell from E Batt but it would not start the 07 WR450. Cranked slowly. This 8 cell starts better than stock and weighs in at 1.5 lb vs stock batt at 4.75 lbs.

Make sure to rotate the right batteries in pic 3. Can see it better in pic 8.

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Here is my version

:cheers::worthy::smirk:

Very nice job. :moon:

The A123 batteries are good stuff...a lot higher cranking amps...the only down side is if they blow....the K2 batteries have a pressure release that doesn't allow them to make a mess.

However, like Gray said earlier and like Ebatt was doing, a circuit board is needed (at least HIGHLY recommended) for the A123's

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will either of these two battery set ups work on a cold first e-start of the day?, or do you suggest to start the bike first with the K-starter?

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will either of these two battery set ups work on a cold first e-start of the day?, or do you suggest to start the bike first with the K-starter?

One other thing to think about regarding the first cold start of the day is that the starter bushings are plastic and putting that load on them could cause starter issues whether it will start cold or not. Cold start using the kicker is MY recommendation. WR Dave

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Gray

You are correct. However the regulator will not allow the charge to exceed the limits of the cells so with the K2 cells it is not necessary :moon:

Maybe, but the regulator isn't capable of controlling discharge rates. Or balancing cells. Ever seen a Li-Po pack blow?

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Maybe, but the regulator isn't capable of controlling discharge rates. Or balancing cells. Ever seen a Li-Po pack blow?

Yup scary stuff. That's why I stayed away from the A123's. According to K2 the explosion doesn't happen (but that doesn't mean it won't)

Gray I know your just throwing out warnings and I agree, everyone needs to do their homework before they just go but/build a LiFo battery.

For what it's worth, this thread is intended to help the DIY 's out! I don't claim to be smart when it comes to this stuff. I probably know enough to get myself into trouble and that's about it!!!

Keep the info coming guys :moon:

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