2010/2011 YZ450 Owner EFI & Timing Map Database

Race Map (Jay Marmont)

TP FI

4/4 -1 +3 -2

1/2 +3 +4 -3

1/4 -2 -3 -2

TP IG

4/4 +2 +2 +2

1/2 +2 +4 +2

1/4 +2 +4 +4

Very aggressive map. Also suits the DRD pipe also.

I've been racing MX for years, and was a Pro/Expert Supermoto racer for a while(before having kids). Now I just ride MX a few times a week. I went through all the maps that have been posted here(to include the 4 on Yamahas website) with full stock exhaust, then with stock header and FMF 4.1 RCT muffler, then full FMF system(Mega Bomb header and 4.1 RCT muffler), to see what made the best power curve and ridability. I also changed the rear sprocket from the stock 48 tooth to a 49 and 50 to test each set-up(pretty much spent a whole day swapping combinations). When I changed the stock muffler to the FMF muffler, the stock power curve was broadened and didn't fall as flat on top. The muffler also added some decent power all through the RPM range. The swap from the stock header to the FMF Mega Bomb header only seemed to give a very slight improvement on the bottom. I even tried the differnet set-ups with the stock air filter and the DT-1 'Over the cage' filter.

I Found the Marmont map to be good with stock exhaust or the "FULL" FMF system. The stock header w/ FMF muffler seemed to loose slight bottom end power, which made the 'Snappy' map better. Going up 1 or 2 teeth on the rear sprocket also helped with the 2nd to 3rd gear gap. I currently use the Full FMF system, the Marmont map, and DT-1 Filter... BUT... I did find the 50 tooth to be best for me. 49 was good but I weigh a little bit more than i used to, so I liked the extra pull from corners. The 'slow' or 'less hit' settings worked well when the track became really hard packed and slick(power didn't come on as strong). 'IMO', if you are going to invest in exhaust, just buying a quality slip-on mufller from FMF, Yoshimura, or Akropovic(though longer and more prone to crash damage), would be sufficient for most riders. THE TUNER IS A MUST THOUGH! Good luck, hope this may help some people.

Edited by dcrider942

Was flipping through the WR450F section and found a link to an article from www.transmoto.com.au regarding mapping for the WR450. While not directly related to the YZ some of the mapping settings recommended for the WR may work for those of us that ride trails or off road. I don't know about you but I sometimes feel a little like I'm taking stabs in the dark with the tuner. Using a "base map" from another source and tweaking has worked well and also seeing what the settings are or how they're classified have helped learn how to tune better.

http://www.transmoto...aha-WR450F-Maps

WR Woods

This map delivers very smooth power, allowing accurate control of your acceleration at very low speeds.

woods.jpg

Edited by WouldsAssassin

Race Map (Jay Marmont)

TP FI

4/4 -1 +3 -2

1/2 +3 +4 -3

1/4 -2 -3 -2

TP IG

4/4 +2 +2 +2

1/2 +2 +4 +2

1/4 +2 +4 +4

Very aggressive map. Also suits the DRD pipe also.

Currently running

2010_yz450f_PowerTunerChart_01.gif

was wanting to run this one just was not sure if it would work, be the best for this setup.

2012 vp 4.4 50/50, gytr head/cams, full fmf 4.1, and a KN air filter.

run mostly trails, hill climbing, dunes(st. anthony).

Edited by RVisser

Race Map (Jay Marmont)

TP FI

4/4 -1 +3 -2

1/2 +3 +4 -3

1/4 -2 -3 -2

TP IG

4/4 +2 +2 +2

1/2 +2 +4 +2

1/4 +2 +4 +4

Very aggressive map. Also suits the DRD pipe also.

i like this one, give little more over rev, very good power down low to high, works good on sand tracks

OK here is the map that was in my 2011yz450f when I bought it. The guy I got it from said his neighbor was sponsored by JGR in arenacross (just what I was told. He did tell me his name but I forgot sorry) this is a very smooth short slick track map for the guy that would rather grab the next gear than rev the bike. I took the map out of my bike but figured I would post it cause there is not a map even close to this one on here.

Bottom is amazing mid is very smooth top is weak. But I will say the torque is there all the time. Its unreal the things the bike will do in 5th gear with this map.

FI

+1 +3 +1

+3 +1 +1

+3 +3 +3

IG

+2 +1 +4

+1 +1 +1

+1 +1 +1

Will the maps shown in this database be the same if they at put in a 2010 model and a 2014 model yz 450?

I doubt it, but you can use them as a starting point.

 

Understand two things:

  • The stock map is all zeros on every year model EFI YZ450
  • The stock map is different on the '10-'11, the '12-'13, and the '14. 

What that means is that if you had a map for a '10 that recommended going +2 in the center cell for fuel, that change will be +2 above the stock zero.  But the stock zero in a '12 or a '14 might already be "+2" over the stock '10 map, so if you made that change to a '12, you'd be +4 over the stock '10 at that point.  That might or might not be a bad thing, depending on how the bike is tuned overall. 

 

The '10-'13 models all had the same cams in them, so the only thing likely to make them run differently is the timing and fuel mapping.  The '14, of course, is a much more powerful engine, mostly due to the cams and head.  That means that the fuel and timing are likely to be considerably different, but the same sort of changes will generally have the same kind of effect, even so.  So, if you wanted to try a map from an earlier engine, you can.  It shouldn't do any damage if you observe the normal cautions, but it may not produce the same results on a later model than it did the '10. 

I see the maps to take out the hit, but what about a map to dumb down the machine across the board. I just came off a ktm 350 and would really like to try to make this feel less powerful like that was. 

I see the maps to take out the hit, but what about a map to dumb down the machine across the board. I just came off a ktm 350 and would really like to try to make this feel less powerful like that was. 

 

That's what the "less hit map" does.

 

Please follow the format of the thread by not posting anything other than maps in this thread.  If you have a question that relates to the maps, ask it in a new thread, or another existing one, not here.

Year Model: 2013
Posting or Edit Revision Date: 0
Pipe/muffler: FMF 4.1, Full System
Significant Mods (cams, etc.): Rekluse EXP 3.0 Auto-Clutch, K&N filter
Altitude Range: 2500-5000ft
Temp Range: 55°F
Humidity Range: DRY!
Type of Use (Track, Trail, Desert, etc.): Desert
Fuel Injection (FI)
+6 +4 +2
+4 +2 +0
+2 +0 -2

Ignition (IG)
+4 +4 +3
+3 +3 +1
+2 +0 +0

Comments:

I was wanting a map that was soft in the low throttle range so I could chase my son around on his 50cc but be strong in the top end for where I ride in the desert.  I like to climb the walls in the washes and climb mountains etc. I've been using this one for a month now with no problems. The throttle control together with the EXP is nice and smooth so the tire won't spin when on loose rocks while trying to climb.

Hi, I apologize for my English (it's not my native language) and I'm new here, so please correct me if I do something I shouldn't.  I had a YZ450F-2006 (loved it for Enduro) and switched to a 2010. I don't love it that much yet, but perhaps with some help of you experts (some mapping hints if it might help) I'll look at it more friendly  :-) :-).  My only concern is that its engine brakes to much (I used to use in the past a YZ250 and loved its no engine braking) and my 2006 really didn't brake very much. So is there any mapping that I can use to achieve to reduce this on the 2010? I wouldn't it also to be to snappy coming off idle (low end).  Any help on this?,  thanks and regards from Chile, Gerardo

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1426227223.918322.jpgtry

Try this it helped me out. If you google yz450 maps there r a bunch you can try but this helped tame down the throttle and still helped me on my mid and top

I'm looking for a map that gives the most low end as possible.  We race some pretty tight single track here in my area, and I need to have as much bottom and be able to lug the bike down, if that's possible.  I've already switched to 13/50 gearing, which helped some, and I've changed the throttle cam to give me as smoother power delivery.  Bike is a 2011 YZ450F, stock pipe, stock motor.  

 

Would the "woods map" be what I am looking for from page 1 of the thread? Or would I want to go with a  "snappy" map from motocross action that have below?  I saw something above about a WR map, but I don't know how that would translate over to the YZ.  

 

YZ450F-IGNITION-FUEL-MAPS.jpg

 

Again, the goal is bottom end and lots of it.  This is my first FI bike, so I'm trying to understand how I make the power at those RPM's.  

If anyone can help out it would be great. I just picked up a 2013 yz450f that has a fmf 4.1 titanium pipe and the mega bomb titanium header. Everything else is stock, including the mapping.

 

I ride at 0-1000ft

Temp is going to be 45F or less (winter)

Terrain is trails, hard pack, roots and rocks.

 

I would just like to post this out here while I am doing research to understand the mapping system. Thanks.

I use the smooth map from this picture (which is the top map in the attached photo) but your best bet is to add a weighted flywheel. I have a 9oz stealthy flywheel and love it. all though I use my bike at the track I've heard woods riders say that it is a necessity for them. don't know how much it will help with the engine braking, but it will make it a little harder to stall it and it helps smooth out the hit so it's not as instant. I'm not sure you can change the engine braking with a map, but I could be completely wrong with that so wait until a more informed member chimes in. also a throttle tamer like the g2 can help smooth the throttle response to make it "feel" like it has less hit.

1477004672350.jpg

I use the smooth map from this picture (which is the top map in the attached photo) but your best bet is to add a weighted flywheel. I have a 9oz stealthy flywheel and love it. all though I use my bike at the track I've heard woods riders say that it is a necessity for them. don't know how much it will help with the engine braking, but it will make it a little harder to stall it and it helps smooth out the hit so it's not as instant. I'm not sure you can change the engine braking with a map, but I could be completely wrong with that so wait until a more informed member chimes in. also a throttle tamer like the g2 can help smooth the throttle response to make it "feel" like it has less hit.

Thanks for this.

 

Another interesting observation is that my friend with the 2012 came over last night to check out my 2013. He has been having a problem where if his throttle is blipped it will stall. He went to blip my throttle and it did not stall. Then he's like hmm maybe I should get a mega bomb header. Not sure what mapping he is running but I am wondering has anyone had this same issue?

Woods map will help a lot with the cough stall.  Helped my 2011 tremendously.  

Thanks for this.

Another interesting observation is that my friend with the 2012 came over last night to check out my 2013. He has been having a problem where if his throttle is blipped it will stall. He went to blip my throttle and it did not stall. Then he's like hmm maybe I should get a mega bomb header. Not sure what mapping he is running but I am wondering has anyone had this same issue?

I don't think adding a megabomb header would really influence the cough/stall unless his bike isn't mapped correctly. you also have to remeber that the 2012/2013 might have different settings from the factory. I know the 11 has different stock map than the 12 (I'm pretty sure about this, but correct me if I'm wrong), one reason would be for the different style silencer probably. but no matter what the year, when you plug the same tuner into either of the bikes, it will show all 0's; even though the 13 might have -1 on everything, it will still show as all 0's. sorry if that doesn't make sense, it's tough to explain. it's the same as if you hook a 14 up to the same tuner, it will also show all 0's when the mapping is definitely different, so when you are looking for maps to try for your bike make sure your looking up maps for your specific year bike or be prepared to tweak them and test out what works best for your bike.

as far as the stall/cough goes, I know if I don't give my bike a good solid warm up, and I blip the throttle with the starter knob pushed back in it will indeed cut out sometimes. I've learned that my 2011 really likes to be sufficiently warmed up before I go to ride it. also try adjusting the idle speed which is done by turning the starter knob, if you have the idle low it will make it easier to stall. but as I said before the flywheel weight helped me tremedesouly, I can now lug my bike through a berm/rut in 3rd gear at a pretty slow speed and chug it right through into the meat of the power without an issue when before it would have stalled half the time trying to do that.

I don't think adding a megabomb header would really influence the cough/stall unless his bike isn't mapped correctly. you also have to remeber that the 2012/2013 might have different settings from the factory. I know the 11 has different stock map than the 12 (I'm pretty sure about this, but correct me if I'm wrong), one reason would be for the different style silencer probably. but no matter what the year, when you plug the same tuner into either of the bikes, it will show all 0's; even though the 13 might have -1 on everything, it will still show as all 0's. sorry if that doesn't make sense, it's tough to explain. it's the same as if you hook a 14 up to the same tuner, it will also show all 0's when the mapping is definitely different, so when you are looking for maps to try for your bike make sure your looking up maps for your specific year bike or be prepared to tweak them and test out what works best for your bike.

as far as the stall/cough goes, I know if I don't give my bike a good solid warm up, and I blip the throttle with the starter knob pushed back in it will indeed cut out sometimes. I've learned that my 2011 really likes to be sufficiently warmed up before I go to ride it. also try adjusting the idle speed which is done by turning the starter knob, if you have the idle low it will make it easier to stall. but as I said before the flywheel weight helped me tremedesouly, I can now lug my bike through a berm/rut in 3rd gear at a pretty slow speed and chug it right through into the meat of the power without an issue when before it would have stalled half the time trying to do that.

Thank you. I'll have to show him this. At this point he has tweaked his mapping. I've heard too that the mappings are different for each year. I know he has a GYTR silencer so I'm just wondering if he has the wrong mapping setting or what. I know it has been bothering him a ton. I've only rode my bike for about 10 minutes so I'll have to see what I think this weekend.

Year Model:2010 YZ450F
Pipe/muffler:Full DR. D system
Significant Mods (cams, etc.):Engine Relocation Kit
Altitude Range:900-1200
Temp Range:60-90
Humidity Range:50%-90%
Type of Use: MX, some trails

Fuel Injection (FI)
+5 +5 +0

+5 +7 +1

+5 +7 +2
Ignition (IG)
+0 +0 +0

+0 -5 +0

-3 -4 +0

 

I just got this bike after having a 250f, and this is my favorite map.  It is the GYTR gradual response, very long, smooth power map.  I like it because I can ride it somewhat like a 250f without the bike tossing me on my head.

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