quick base valve question

[casper36092]

i have an 08 wr450. i had the forks revalved by my local tuner and they are still a little stiff right on the top on little bittie roots and stuff. it is very good on the bigger faster stuff though. i was going to take the base valve off and take a couple of the big shims off to soften the initial blow. (big as in the wide but paper thin shims that are on top.) this is the correct thing to do right.

my main question is though do the base valves just unscrew or do you have to have that tool to hold the inside from spinning?

thanks

chris

[Deserthound]

I did the suspension on my 07 and was able to get them out with an impact wrench without the tool. I don't think it would be very hard to make a tool out of pvc or something if you had to.

[tribalbc]

You can also use an impact gun and hold the spring in the tube for friction.

It might take a few attempts to get the final thread to spin out. You might need to pull on the base valve a bit on your final spins as well.

[Chas_M]

Be very careful if you use an air impact wrench. Make sure the six sided socket has been ground flat for full contact, and 'tap' the impact gun trigger very gently as the base valve head is soft aluminum and easy to deform.

[tribalbc]

Be very careful if you use an air impact wrench. Make sure the six sided socket has been ground flat for full contact, and 'tap' the impact gun trigger very gently as the base valve head is soft aluminum and easy to deform.

I don't get were you're coming from here

One it's a hex head, and two an impact is about as easy on bolts as you could be. Use the torque needed without an impact and you risk stripping things.

[Chas_M]

I don't get were you're coming from here

One it's a hex head, and two an impact is about as easy on bolts as you could be. Use the torque needed without an impact and you risk stripping things.

I was speaking in term of the fragile aluminum base valve in WP forks. If the Yamaha base valves are not aluminum, please disregard my comments.

[SXP]

You can also use an impact gun and hold the spring in the tube for friction.

It might take a few attempts to get the final thread to spin out. You might need to pull on the base valve a bit on your final spins as well.

Just completed the Smart Performance Phase IV upgrade - forks and shocks. Really, the only tense part was breaking the cartridge free of the damper rod (I used a heat gun to losen things up) on the forks, and drilling out the six ports on the crossover piston for the shock - didn't want to screw that up.!! Can't wait to test it, but we have rain for the next couple of days. I'd be interested in seeing your build sheet and comparing it to mine, if you don't mind. DaveJ was always a phone call away when ever I had questions.

[tribalbc]

Just completed the Smart Performance Phase IV upgrade - forks and shocks. Really, the only tense part was breaking the cartridge free of the damper rod (I used a heat gun to losen things up) on the forks, and drilling out the six ports on the crossover piston for the shock - didn't want to screw that up.!! Can't wait to test it, but we have rain for the next couple of days. I'd be interested in seeing your build sheet and comparing it to mine, if you don't mind. DaveJ was always a phone call away when ever I had questions.

Well I've drilled out the crossover piston port, wasn't too bad with a drill press. But I tore my oring on reinstall of the piston. So I'm waiting on some new orings now.

Waiting to finish the shock before I tear into my forks. It's full winter here so I have lots of time. Did you fabricate a holder for your damper rod when breaking it free? How about for holding the actual tube?

Shoot me a PM with your email and we'll exchange build sheets.