Only 3 days left! 05/01/2017Enter The Giveaway!
13 posts in this topic
So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue.
First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder).
But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0
Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works.
I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
Just bought a new 2017 yz250fx, has about 2 hours on it and ive already done an oil change, and overall made sure everything is in good condition.
I rode for about an hour last Saturday around a farm and than stopped to turn off the bike, about 20 minutes later I came back and started it up and now every time I rev it/ blip the throttle the bike just shuts off.
Than about 6 days later tried again, Now it wont even run without choke, I warm the bike up on choke and as soon as I shut it off bike turns off
Not only do I want to fix this so i can ride my NEW bike, I am very pissed because its brand new and ive done nothing wrong to it.
Any help is much appreciated
So apparently some mx fcr carbs have removable valve seats and some dont. I didnt know this and just thought mine was really stuck in there so i drilled it out. Was going to replace it anyway. But it turns out that i have the model that is not suppose to have the valve seat removed. or so i think. Is anyone aware of this difference between the same carb. Do you know where i can get another valve seat? its off a 2003 yz450f
Hey all, recently getting into motocross again and bought a used bike from a kid who lacked on the maintenance side of things for the bike. What I have found / believe is happening is oil is leaking out of the cylinder head breather tube. Before going on my first ride with the bike I had a respectable amount of oil right in the middle of the checkered oil marks on the dip sticks. However after about 5 hours riding I checked the oil to find that it was barely even on the dip stick. I know there has been oil leaking out of the breather but could have been caused because an overflow on the oil change from the kid. I mean the bike is 8 years old maybe it is time for some top end work. On that note would a person change out the piston regardless of condition along with the rings? Is it possible the rings are just not positioned right? I would definitely do the valves while I have the bike open anyways.
Any info would be greatly appreciated I just find it odd that it took 5 hours to drain, reading through other posts some guys were having puddles of oil after 20 minuets of running time.