keihin pwk 36 vs 38

I didn't realize you had another carb that you could switch with, I'm guessing the tops will interchange. Let us know what you find out. :moon:

Ok, so I tried the 36pwk. The carbs are identical from the 36pwk short body to the 38pwk short body. I was able to use the cable & top off of the kx125 carb so with that delima over I took off the fuel cut off silenoid & realized something, with the silenoid unplugged the tapered end remains up so in simple terms the boost port silenoid remains open all the time. So when the RPM's increase more fuel is being drawn in through a hole in the fuel bowl & up along the side of the carb & turns 90 degrees & through a tube in the intake bell opening where the beveled tube connected to the boost port is. I noticed that from 1/8 throttle on the jetting seemed to remain rich no matter how I leaned out the needle clip & main jet circuit. So I plugged the whole boost port circuit with Jb weld & took off the bowl & plugged up the hole in it too. Now after doing that I put the nj back in the middle clip & put the 168 mj back in & now im able to adjust my carb settings with more positive results. Also I took the throttle position sensor off & plugged that hole so now I have room to be able to loosen up both clamps & turn the carb to change jet's or change needle clip settings. End result, It ***'n rips ass!!! Better than the 38pwk even,not that it's a bad carb but it's definitely a serious woods weapon now. If you look @ the carbs on the ktm's pwk's the boost port castings are there but no holes or silenoid or tp sensor.

Finally i bought a 36 pwk long body.......the ''problem'' is that the carb is 1cm longer than the mikuni....if someone mounts a long body keihin.....is that a problem?

Ok, so I tried the 36pwk. The carbs are identical from the 36pwk short body to the 38pwk short body. I was able to use the cable & top off of the kx125 carb

Did the cable fit the Honda throttle? or did you have to use a Kawasaki throttle?

with that delima over I took off the fuel cut off silenoid & realized something, with the silenoid unplugged the tapered end remains up so in simple terms the boost port silenoid remains open all the time. So when the RPM's increase more fuel is being drawn in through a hole in the fuel bowl & up along the side of the carb & turns 90 degrees & through a tube in the intake bell opening where the beveled tube connected to the boost port is. I noticed that from 1/8 throttle on the jetting seemed to remain rich no matter how I leaned out the needle clip & main jet circuit. So I plugged the whole boost port circuit with Jb weld & took off the bowl & plugged up the hole in it too. Now after doing that I put the nj back in the middle clip & put the 168 mj back in & now im able to adjust my carb settings with more positive results.
That "boost port circuit" is the power jet circuit. The power jet is replaceable and screws into the bottom of the carb/bowl mating surface, directly below the solenoid. You can plug the circuit by replacing the power jet with a small allen head set screw that has the same diameter and thread as the screws that retain the bowl. You might want to keep an eye on the JB weld, we had some trouble with gas disolving it once.:moon:
End result, It ***'n rips ass!!! Better than the 38pwk even,not that it's a bad carb but it's definitely a serious woods weapon now. If you look @ the carbs on the ktm's pwk's the boost port castings are there but no holes or silenoid or tp sensor.
Sounds like your happy with it. Can you post your jetting specs? Main, pilot, needle#, clip position, and slide #? Did you use the slide from the YZ or the KX? Did you notice the difference between the two?

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