Crosshatch gone.

Does it mean a cylinder is toast if the crosshatch is gone? Bike has 100 hours on it. 2nd piston. Cylinder looks very dull and crosshatch is completely gone. What do you guys think.

Probably time to replate or replace. Refinish it with a ball hone and measure it. If it's less than .002" out of straight/round, you can use it.

Thanks

With the cylinder being nicsil I would not think it needs to be re-plated unless you have had a major engine failure. I would not suggest using a ball hone on the cylinder, I would take it to a shop that has a ridged hone with proper nicsil stones. I work at a shop and I have ball honed a few cylinders but would not leave them like that. Once I have used the ball hone with some proper mineral oil. I leave the gritty oil on the cylinder then use the ridged hole with the proper stones to get a real nice cross hatch. This really only works with oem nicsil which is harder than lets say one from millennium technology or whatever they call themselves. Also like grey said make sure you spec it out and see where you are at.

just my 2 cents

yz007f

I have done many top ends over the past 10 years both 2 & 4 stroke and as long as the cylinder was in spec I used a ball hone and never had a problem.

I've used ball hones in EVERY engine I built for close to thirty years. Never a failure to seat and run well, regardless of engine type.

If you just let the hone spin in place, you won't get a proper cross hatch, but if you run it up and down the bore as it turns, you will.

Rigid stone hones are fine IF the cylinder is perfectly straight, or nearly so, but if there is one thousandth's wear on the bore, then you will have to remove at least that much plating from the rest of the bore to get the hone to contact the low spot, and that may well push the bore as a whole over the .002" wear limit.

Since .001" out of round is well within tolerance, unless you'd rather replate or replace, better to use a ball hone and put a proper finish on the bore and use it that way.

Besides, if too much is removed in the process, the OEM piston is no longer an option, and you're stuck using an expensive aftermarket unit in a cylinder that's compromised as to the thickness of the plating.

I know what your saying using a rigid hone if your cylinder is out of spec. But that really only plays a big part when your dealing with a iron born cylinder. Working with big company's like Polaris,Cat etc they do not advice to use a ball hone with nicsil at all.The nicsil is so hard that you wont cut a .001" if you tried. You would need the diamond cut stones that are worth huge money! I don't know of any shop that has those other than the guys that re-nic cylinders...

The nicsil is so hard that you wont cut a .001" if you tried.
It's Nikasil, and how do you think that you hone a freshly plated cylinder to the correct size? Diamond hones. Every shop that replates or reconditions them uses these.

And if the cylinder is that hard (and it is; Nikasil is pretty much off the top of the Rockwell C scale at 86+), how do you propose that a fixed stone hone will follow the wear pattern of a used cylinder, as a ball hone freely does? Are we going to run the hone until the stones wear to match the bore?

Bear in mind, there are different abrasives available. Aluminum oxide is the cheapest, but also the softest, and while it will cross hatch the cylinder surface reasonably well, it will wear quickly on Nikasil, and not do as good a job as the harder abrasives (at least silicon carbide), which are preferable.

http://www.brushresearch.com/flex-hone.php

I saw that there were 2 available. Thanks for the heads up:thumbsup:

Bear in mind, there are different abrasives available.

I should have asked but, I had read up on it a little and it seems 240-320 is what is needed for finishing. The cylinder I am currently doing is in nice shape. Basically I'm going to freshen up the cross hatching for a new piston and rings. What would you recommend, 240 or 320?

Thanks!

I usually use 240.

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