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pnwdr350

Dr350 starting problem/ignition problem

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Can somebody show me a pic of your ignition. specifically the key positions.

I have no key for my bike, my brother said the p/o turned the bike to the on position and pulled the key out and lost it.

WELL, today I was working on my bike trying to get the pig started. I put a screw driver and turned the ignition all the way to the right position, but I can not get it to go back to the left. What is the position right before all the way to the right.

I am having a HELL of a time getting it started, like the kill switch is on, but it is not. spent about 1-2hr trying to get it started going up and down with the idle control screw(not underside mixture screw),

I just bought this carb a week ago (pumper carb). started fine the last few days, one or two kicks. Is there a way to "hot wire" the ignition? could I just hook a 12v source to a post on the coil???

I would have checked the spark plug, but I do not have a 18mm deep socket yet. got 17mm,19mm, but no god dang 18mm. :bonk::banghead::bonk: I AM GOING NUTS! I'm about ready to take it to a Suzuki mechanic.

Could something be shorting out somewhere and causing me no spark???

I've got a few wires hanging off the side of my bike, I don't think it really matters though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/UBER_LEET/CIMG0142.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/UBER_LEET/CIMG0143.jpg

my side stand switch is gone what color is that cable, it needs to be grounded correct?

I know it's a basket case.:bonk:

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Black with yellow and Black with white stripe wires are "kill switch" wires. Connect them together= no spark. Disconnect them = spark. Easiest way to turn the ignition "on" is to disconnect the seperate "Black with yellow stripe" wire from the key switch wiring. It is the only wire by itself, and has a small bullet style connector on it.

Ignition switch has three positions, "off" "on" and "park". Park disables the ignition and turns on the tail light only.

The DR's ignition is self contained. No battery is needed. The stator has its own seperate pole to power the CDI and HV coil. There are also one or two smaller trigger coils to provide timing for the CDI.

modify_inline.gif

Here is a diagram of the switch:

ignitionsw.jpg

The kickstand switch wires need to be connected together when you remove the switch. The bike will still start ok if you forget to connect them, but will die the instant you put it in gear.

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Thanks Jcalis, I found the wire you are talking about behind my speedo, I will try this tomorrow. Sounds like just what I needed. I appreciate it.

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Hi pnwdr

did you disconect that black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, if so did it sort out your problem? I am having problems and disconecting this wire will help me eliminate the ignition switch.

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Hi pnwdr

did you disconect that black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, if so did it sort out your problem? I am having problems and disconecting this wire will help me eliminate the ignition switch.

Disconnecting the black/yellow wire sorted out my ignition problem, but now my headlight and tach aren't powered.

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I have fond that if you take off the dial and ignition housing and turn it over you will see the wires at the bottom of the ignition switch, if you make a contact between the red and orange wires you will have full ignition. If you make this a permanant thing you would have to disconect the battery every time you leave the bike.

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thanks Greg. I do not have a battery and I am kick start only. I will remove my ignition from the cluster housing tomorrow, and connect the red to orange. I don't plan on riding my bike on the street till at least spring time. And at that time I'll get a new ignition.

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You need to conect the red to orange wires (as mentioned) and also the green to brown wires. That will get all the lights working when the engine starts up. Make sure you have a capacitor installed in place of the battery if you removed it. The regulator may not work correctly without it and your lights may be dim / flickering.

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