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redswr

stupid valve cover!!! 07...

18 posts in this topic

hey guys... i took off the cover (which took about 30min) and now when trying to put it back on i've got it stuck between the timing chain and frame. i have it lodged in there pretty good and when trying to move it the paint on the cover is chipping off and falling into the valves... :bonk:

any tips?

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I find that it is easier to insert the valve cover from the right side of the bike and drop it over the cam chain and sprockets. Are you putting it in from the left side, maybe I misunderstood the question? WR Dave

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I'm curious, did you remove the uper motor mounts/hangers before taking the cover off? If they are still in place then you really need to remove them.

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I took the mounts off and i'm putting it in from the right side... It's sitting forward on the motor and I can't get it to slide back over rear cam cause of the frame. These 07's are a PITA to work on!

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The only reason why I took it apart was cause I was bored...lol

It's a success then. 07's and up cannot be considered boring to work on. Frustrating yes, but not boring. Good luck with it, I'm about ready to check my valves as well for the first time. Maybe I'll just blow it off for another 50 hours or so. :bonk:

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+1 :bonk:

Good thing its a Yamaha and they hardly need working on :bonk:

+2 - The one time I took mine off I thought I was never going to get it back on. These do suck something fierce to work on...

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I'm about ready to check my valves as well for the first time. Maybe I'll just blow it off for another 50 hours or so. :bonk:

Brett you would probably be fine by taking that approach. I have checked mine twice and they havent moved. Heck my dad's 06 didnt move until around 14K miles :bonk:

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hey guys... i took off the cover (which took about 30min) and now when trying to put it back on i've got it stuck between the timing chain and frame. i have it lodged in there pretty good and when trying to move it the paint on the cover is chipping off and falling into the valves... :bonk:

any tips?

Know where you're coming from. Just checked my valves last weekend. Thought I had the valve cover removal/installation down pat last time, but do you think I could remember how I did it? As someone else said, definitely easier to work with putting it off and on from the right side. It is a PITA.

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alright guys... i've even went as far as taking off the rad hose in the front and for some reason this things still a PITA!!! i've probably got so much dirt and stuff down in the valves that its not gonna run when i'm done.

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alright guys... i've even went as far as taking off the rad hose in the front and for some reason this things still a PITA!!! i've probably got so much dirt and stuff down in the valves that its not gonna run when i'm done.

If I remember right put one corner on and then start jiggling it untill it finds it's way on. it's kinda like one of those chain link puzzles you get. just keep jiggling around different angles untill things slip on easy.

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Having just checked my valves for the first time last night at approx 64 hours (I know, I know, but hey, it's a Yamaha ), I thought I'd share my experience as to this valve cover issue.

First and formost, give yourself every advantage possible and clip off all the zip ties that are holding the wire harness in the way, that needs to be able to move from side to side as needed. Not sure if it's mandatory, but taking off the upper engine mount will only give you more room to work with. And absolutely make sure the top of the engine and underside of the frame tubes overhead are clean before you start. Best to wash the bike before you do any engine work and then take a damp rag and clean up everything visible you can find before opening up the valve cover. It goes without saying that you need to remove the coil on top of the spark plug and the valve cover breather. Unplug the wires that plug into the coil and pull them out of the way. Remove the coil, but not the spark plug as it's in there deep and won't be in the way.

I could tell right away that I was going to need to separate the gasket from the valve cover, but was not comfortable with just loosening the left side so those little half circle rubber covers would flex out of the way. I felt I would tear the gasket, so I just separated the whole thing very carefully from the valve cover to give myself the most room to work with. It was very tedious to get the cover off, but basically I lifted it up on the cam chain side until it would clear the chain while gently rotating it back and forth until it would slide more and more to the right side of the engine. Ultimately it rotated somewhat clockwise before it came out the right side of the frame.

It was at this point I noticed that the gasket has ridges that stick up to fit in grooves on the valve cover, but the bottom side is flat--not good. My concern was that in reinstalling the cover, I would have a hard time getting those ridges seated if the gasket was allowed to slide around because of the flat bottom surface. This turned out not to be an issue. Upon reinstalling the cover, I found it was easiest to put the back side of the cover in first from the right side and then rotate it counterclockwise until it falls into place. Not sure why, but putting it back in turned out to be stupid easy compared to getting it out, littlerally taking seconds.

Take a flashlight and look carefully round the complete perimeter of the valve cover to make sure that the gasket is flat and coming completely to the edge of the cover. Do the same where the gasket forms a ring around the spark plug hole. This is not as easy to see, but you can tell when it's good. The part you can't see is the part of the gasket that goes around the cavity for the breather tube, but you can pretty well feel when everything is right. If not, just lift up the cover and wiggle it around a little and drop it back down until it lays completely flat over the gasket.

I was hoping that my valve clearance would have been a little more, but as it turned out all exhaust and all intakes were at the tighter side of the allowable tolerance, but still acceptable. My thought was that because they were all the same (per side) that likely it was set roughly like this at the factory. By the way, make sure that the plug that clips into the coil actually clips in. Mine would not stay clipped no matter what I did so I zip tied it in place.

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If I remember right put one corner on and then start jiggling it untill it finds it's way on. it's kinda like one of those chain link puzzles you get. just keep jiggling around different angles untill things slip on easy.

Exactly. Just did my first valve check (all three intake out of spec btw) kinda got the cover stuck like reds, pulled it back off and just worked it back in until it dropped..find the right angle and you absolutely won't have to force it.

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Exactly. Just did my first valve check (all three intake out of spec btw) kinda got the cover stuck like reds, pulled it back off and just worked it back in until it dropped..find the right angle and you absolutely won't have to force it.

one thing I forgot to add was it's crucial to remove the hot start cable to give you the clearance you need.

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I was hoping that my valve clearance would have been a little more, but as it turned out all exhaust and all intakes were at the tighter side of the allowable tolerance, but still acceptable.

Thats how mine came from the factory...I checked them before I ever started the bike and then at 20/40/60/80/100 hours (They havent moved)

Yamaha :thumbsup:

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