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mikeythefokker

Removing coolant overflow tank. What to do with old radiator hose?

20 posts in this topic

I'm taking a bunch of stuff off the wr, and the coolant overflow tank is going bye bye. There is a little elbow that comes off the top of the radiator that fed the old overflow. Now that the tank is gone, should I run just a short hose off of it? Cap it? Leave it alone? Yeah yeah, I know it doesn't weigh much, but I'm pulling off everything except the magic button. Kickstand and lights are going, old battery is getting replaced with an ebatt, old rear spring and pegs are getting swapped out for stock yz titanium parts, and I'll be throwing on some nuetech tubliss inserts. Then I'll work on trying to get the thing to turn. In the meantime though, what should I do with that radiator elbow?

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Just run the hose down past the bottom of the frame a little bit so if it overheats the coolant blows on the ground and not on your bike and don't plug it!

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I think you should put a yz radiator cap on it because the yz has no coolant tank. :busted:

I have also put my WR on a diet. I have lighter rims,hubs,mx tires,alloy bolts,lightweight lights,drilling, deleting bolts, odo delete no stand. Replacing the factory muffler made a huge difference in weight.

I have YZ125 forks, 2 sizes heavier springs, forks are slid up 8mm in the YZ125 triples, rear sag is 60mm, Reed bend bars. It turns better than I ever thought it could.

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How much weight do you think that the forks saved you? I didn't realize that the forks on a 125 would be any lighter. Aren't all kyb 48mm's the same weight? I just had mine re-valved and setup with the smart performance phase 4 kit and proprietary fluid. I'm keeping them forever. What year is your bike?

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The forks did not save any weight but the yz valvind and stiffer spring helped it turn and soaked up some of the nastier terrain better, at least in my case. I am not suggesting you swap forks, I was just telling u my setup.

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when i first bought the wr i removed the coolant tank, tailight, headlight, and some other things. i realized that the lightest thing removed was the coolant bottle and since i race desert i ended up putting it back on. its nice to have a catch tank for coolant.

anyways, the best way to see how to route the house is go over to a yz250 and check out the hose. it goes straight from the fill neck, down the front frame rail and into the skidplate. thats it

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You COULD replace the radiator cap with a YZ one part no. 22W-12462-00-00 CAP, RADIATOR

but its the same one as a WR.:busted:

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I think you should put a yz radiator cap on it because the yz has no coolant tank. :busted:

I have also put my WR on a diet. I have lighter rims,hubs,mx tires,alloy bolts,lightweight lights,drilling, deleting bolts, odo delete no stand. Replacing the factory muffler made a huge difference in weight.

I have YZ125 forks, 2 sizes heavier springs, forks are slid up 8mm in the YZ125 triples, rear sag is 60mm, Reed bend bars. It turns better than I ever thought it could.

I'd like to see some photos of the modifications you made to your bike.

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You COULD replace the radiator cap with a YZ one part no. 22W-12462-00-00 CAP, RADIATOR

but its the same one as a WR.:banana:

:banana::busted: I wondered if that was the case. I guess there is no need to change the cap. Thanks for the info and duh.

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I welded up a aux gas tank and mounted it where the coolant overflow tank was. It goes on and off in a minute and saved me the $ for a new bigger tank.

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+1 ^^^^^ I just make sure that my radiators are full, and I run with my reservoir empty.

Mike

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when i first bought the wr i removed the coolant tank, tailight, headlight, and some other things. i realized that the lightest thing removed was the coolant bottle and since i race desert i ended up putting it back on. its nice to have a catch tank for coolant.

anyways, the best way to see how to route the house is go over to a yz250 and check out the hose. it goes straight from the fill neck, down the front frame rail and into the skidplate. thats it

+1

Unless you are using the bike only for mx, I don't suggest removing the tank, not worth the tiny weight loss. My tank has been a life saver for me in the really tight going.

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I took off the overflow bottle when i got my '2000 and have ridden it in temperatures up to 43c which is pretty hot and its never overheated or ran low on coolant.

If you need an overflow bottle because of fluid loss,then either you have a coolant leak, blocked radiator or inoperative water pump.How long do you think the little bit of coolant in the bottle will last then anyway?

I think its just for road use to stop coolant leaking on the road when the cap releases a little fluid.

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All the WR's I have owned have overheated in slow going from time to time.

An overflow bottle is a really good idea.

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With all the weight mods I've done I would never remove the puke tank. Even with a 1.6 rad cap and boyesen water pump. There are still times in the tight gnarly it gets used and it weighs so little. Like others say just keep an inch or so of coolant in there.

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The point is, when your bike boils over, the coolant will be in the tank, where it will eventually go back into the radiator, not on the ground leaving your rads less than full.

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I have had the overflow bottle disconnected for 7,000 k's now with no dramas.

Ride in thick single trail in 30+ celsius without loosing any coolant

I add about a capful of coolant about every 1000 k's :bonk:

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Me too,just a top up reqired! I've taken the tank off a heap of wr450's and never once has one boiled. You would have to be very going slow to get one to boil?

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All the WR's I have owned have overheated in slow going from time to time.

An overflow bottle is a really good idea.

With all the weight mods I've done I would never remove the puke tank. Even with a 1.6 rad cap and boyesen water pump. There are still times in the tight gnarly it gets used and it weighs so little. Like others say just keep an inch or so of coolant in there
The point is, when your bike boils over, the coolant will be in the tank, where it will eventually go back into the radiator, not on the ground leaving your rads less than full.

:bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :lol:

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