how do i install a ignition key on my wr426f??

i bought an electrosport ingnition key and need help installing it. it seems like a plug and play thing since all the wires it came with have connectors at the end. do i use the kill switch wire to install it to or what.

here is a pic of what i got

DSCN8122.jpg

i need help with the wirering not mounting it. i did see any thing about pluging it in or wirering in that thread.

Go back and look through the thread. It includes notes about moving pins in the switch's connector, a pin-out/diagram of the switch's internal wiring, a full, modified schematic of a 2007 WR-450, and text that talks about the ability to use it for either a kill switch or ignition/power switch.

i cant download that diagram on my computer for some reason. what connecters do i unplug and what connecters do i attach?

here is a pic

DSCN8141.jpg

DSCN8142.jpg

Sorry, I don't own a WR-426. Do you have a schematic for it?

If your bike currently has a power/ignition switch, you'll need to connect the new keyed switch in place of the existing power/ignition switch using the Red and Solid Black wires from the new keyed switch.

If your bike does NOT currently have a power/ignition switch, you'll need to connect the new keyed switch in parallel with your existing kill switch. (ie. Tap into one wire from your existing kill switch with the Green wire from the new keyed switch, and tap into the second wire from the same kill switch with the Black & White wire from the new keyed switch. With this method, you will NOT be disconnecting any existing wiring. )

does the kill switch wire usally end on a connecter? could i unplug it and just plug the key in it?

if you look at my second pic of the wires the big green wire connecter thing and the yellowish white/ clear connecter that both look the same besides the color are connected to the kiil switch. the wires are the ones that seperate the highest on the frame. it doesnt seem to go to a connecter for a while. the connecter i think it passes through eventually is near the carb.

The existing kill switch very likely has a connector on it, but it's not going to match the connector that came on your keyed switch. However, if you disconnect your existing kill switch, it would no longer work. I would NOT recommend this method.

If you are wiring this into the existing kill switch wiring, you're going to have to remove the existing connector on your keyed switch, any way. You might as well do it right and cleanly tap into your existing kill switch wiring. This way both your existing kill switch and the keyed switch will work like they should.

what do you mean by tap into the two wires? do i just cut off the kill switch and use those two wires to conect to the key switch?

Leave the existing kill switch wires connected just they way they are.

Find a spot where you can carefully strip some insulation off of these two existing wires.

Solder one wire from one of the stripped wires to the Green wire on your keyed switch.

Solder a second wire from the other stripped wire to the Black and White wire on your keyed switch.

Carefully heat-shrink each joint or wrap each joint carefully with electrical tape.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I would strongly recommend finding someone to help you.

can i mix the wires up on my switch or do i need the green wire on my kill switch to connect to a wire on the key switch that matches? same for the other? ive never soldered before but i have welded. i watched i video how to do it and it seems simple. do i just get some extra wire to wire into the two kill switch wires to the key switch wires?

Wire colors on your existing kill switch don't matter. Either one can be connected to either the green or the black & white wires on your key switch.

You will likely need to extend the wires on your keyed switch to reach the wires from your existing kill switch. 18-guage or 16-guage wire should be fine. Just make sure you put the keyed switch through the mounting plate BEFORE you solder all of the wires together.

if i just cut off the kill switch and mount the key there wouldnt it kill the motor when i turn it off? i wouldnt really need the kill switch then right? it would just be more convenient and faster i supose to shut the engine off if i kept the kill switch.

The point is that if you do it this way, you still need to solder the wires to the keyed switch and you have to remove your hand from the handlebars in order to kill the engine.

alright ill try to solder it some where down that wire or find some one who can. i dont have a soldering gun but some one in my family might

what kind of soldering iron do i need? will any work?

Any soldering iron, soldering gun, or soldering pencil will work. The larger the wire or the more wind that you have, the bigger the iron needs to be.

30 to 60 watts should work fine. If it's something that you don't forsee using a lot, buy a cheap one at Radio Shack, Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, etc.. Just be sure to use small, rosin-core solder. Acid-core solder (as used for plumbing) will corrode the wires.

If you end up buying a higher-wattage soldering iron/gun/pencil, just be careful how long you keep it on the joint or it will quickly melt the insulation off of the wires.

Here's a cheap soldering kit at Radio Shack that includes everything you will need except a tool to strip the wires and electrical tape.:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758

Be very careful when you strip the insulation off the the wires that you don't nick or cut the wires, themselves.

i got this stuff today and im going to try to get the key on tonight. think this stuff should work. 18 gauge wire shrink wrap and the only solder they had at sears. it says for general purpose use.

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