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whyZE426

Deal or no deal? 01' 426

17 posts in this topic

Hey all , I think i just scored a pretty good deal so i wanted to get some opinions on what the tt community thinks... The ol' trusty rusty warrior was startin to get a lil warn out and vibrate apart so i figured id go lookin for a new toy. I picked up a 2001 yz426 with an enduro kit, all legalized in pa, Bike is in excellent condition, usually starts on second kick when cold. I let myself get used to the auto decompression on the crf450 so it took a lil bit to get used to the decomp. lever on the new one haha. But im startin to get the feel for it. When i bought it , my buddy threw in all the extra parts he had layin around for it. Which includes all the original electronic stuff (stator etc.) from when it was strickly mx style bike, two brand new front # plates, A 4 gallon tank i think, along with the factory tank, 2 extra brand new sprockets for trail riding. and a few other things i cant think of right now.

Seems to run fine so far. I took it out on about a 3 hour ride today of woods/road riding and didnt have a single problem at all. The only thing that is wrong with it is that the wires for the brake lights need saudered back on, (no biggy) and im a littlw bit outta shape for the bike lol my own fault. I had a knee surgery in january and ive been bein a bit lazy since then in the phsyical fitness department.

So i just wanted to see what you all thought about the new bike.

whyZE426

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how much did u buy for? i bought a 2002 yz426f this summer that was bought new in 2005. the bike blew up after 2 rides. the timming chain skipped and a valve hit the piston and broke. i would highly recomend replacing the timming chain. cheap insurance and you can do it your self. i had to sell it for 750 for a parts bike when i bought it for 2100. just sold my broken bike today. good bike but replace the timming chain every 40-50 hrs of ride time and you should have no problems. i would check your valve clearences as well when you replace the timming chain. all you really take off to replace the chain is the valve cover, flywheel and stator. do your self a favor and replace it. dont end up like me.

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if your buddy, the guy you bought it off of, was not the type to bang the thing off the rev limiter at every occasion, you should have no worries.

there were issues with the valves "way back when" but the general consensus was that converted 2stroke riders were too rev happy.

congrats on the new ride.

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there were issues with the valves "way back when" but the general consensus was that converted 2stroke riders were too rev happy.

Funny. I don't remember that.

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should i be as worried as i am about my timing chain and not ride my bike until i get a new one and put it on or what? there's no unusual top end noise and it runs great...

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yeah, it was a long time ago...my memory fails a little more each day. :busted:

i don't know it from experience. thru the grapevine, i was given the impression the '01 426 had some issues with the Ti valves that was attributed to over-rev. coulda been an isolated incident blown out of proportion.

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you got ripped off. bring it by and i'll reimburse you the $1500 provided the title is clear. :busted:

i've wanted to motard mine for the street but, the price just to make it legal is crazy. you did good.

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should i be as worried as i am about my timing chain and not ride my bike until i get a new one and put it on or what? there's no unusual top end noise and it runs great...
It's not likely to fail, but it certainly could. The only way you'll ever know for sure how long it will last is to go until it breaks. But I don't recommend that.

Another of the 2 or 3 most common causes of timing failures in a 426 is camshafts seizing to the head as a result of improper retorquing of the cam cap bolts following a valve adjust or timing chain replacement.

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Regarding the cam caps:

  • Always seat the caps as completely as possible only by pressing them into place by hand. DO NOT draw them down with the bolts.
  • Torque them in small increments (snug, 40, 60, and 75 in/lb) and in the pattern specified in the manual. DO NOT run them down to the full specified torque in one step.
  • My advice: Use 75 in/lb as the torque spec instead of the 86 the book calls for.

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I have NEVER heard of a single valve wear issue in ANY 400/426/450 since 98. The only time you hear about valve problems on the Yammies is if something else causes them to fail- skipped timing chain for example. Before you go spend the bucks for the timing chain, get out the manual and look for the spec and see if your chain is in spec or not. Might save ya 35 bucks.

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Before you go spend the bucks for the timing chain, get out the manual and look for the spec and see if your chain is in spec or not. Might save ya 35 bucks.
As soon as someone finds any spec for the cam chain in the manual other than the type and link count, and a warning not to use it if it has stiff links, please publish it.

It's not there.

Some have suggested counting how many turns it takes to retract the chain tensioner, but that only works if you did it when the bike was new, since the baseline will be different for each unit.

One way of gauging that could be fairly accurate would be to take a look at the cam timing. If the chain has worn, both cams will appear slightly retarded at TDC. But since the timing marks on the cams are not extremely precise, it again depends a little on knowing what it looked like to start with.

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As soon as someone finds any spec for the cam chain in the manual other than the type and link count, and a warning not to use it if it has stiff links, please publish it.

It's not there.

Some have suggested counting how many turns it takes to retract the chain tensioner, but that only works if you did it when the bike was new, since the baseline will be different for each unit.

One way of gauging that could be fairly accurate would be to take a look at the cam timing. If the chain has worn, both cams will appear slightly retarded at TDC. But since the timing marks on the cams are not extremely precise, it again depends a little on knowing what it looked like to start with.

I knew I should have got my manual out first... I thought there was a pin-to-pin length spec posted for the cam chain. I suppose you could test the tensioner by determining how far it is extended? It would be crude at best, but if the tensioner is, say, more than 75% extended the chain should probably be replaced.

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i would not take the time to check the chain just replace it. i just bought a 01 wr426f today and im ordering a cam chain. i hope i get some more use out of this bike than i got out of my yz426f. same your self some heart ake and gain some peace of mind and replace it

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thanks guys... i'm just going to get the chain and be done with it... cheap insurance. i need to tear it down and check my valves and everything anyway.

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$ 1500 for a dirt bike with a tag sounds like an awesome deal

Thats what i figured haha. Im just headin out now to piss around with the turn signals and brake lights. Then i think im gonna throw the new tank on :busted:

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