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HELP PLEASE! 1995 RM250 motor on a 1998 RM250 Possible?


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Hi all, I am new to here and need help fast. I have a 1998 RM 250 with a blown water pump and milky oil. I have the motor out and started to break down the motor and holy crap, it is involved more than I thought. In the interest of saving time, I have a chance to get a 1995 (J114) motor for a good price but mine calls for a (J115). Besides the obvious, will the 1995 bottom end 1. work with my existing electric 2. will my cylinder and head work 3. will the motor mounts align? Thanks in advance for your help.

Joe

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I have a 1994 RM 250 that I ride quite regularly and am familiar with the 1993-1995 series engines and I don't think anything will bolt from them to the 1996-1999 engines. Cylinders, bottom ends, heads, and mounting points are ALL different. It may be possible to swap the entire 1995 engine into your 1998 frame, but then you would still have to custom fabricate mounting points, pipe routing, airbox, etc. It would be a MAJOR headache probably costing you MORE in the long run than just fixing your 1998 powerplant properly.

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There is no way that a '98 cylinder will fit a '95 bottom end ~ unless you have a welder a machine shop and lot's of free time.

You really are better off just fixing your engine. The milky trans oil is just a sign that your water pump seal is shot, and that's an easy fix. You do not even have to pull the motor, just the left side engine cover.

Did the pump actually explode? Or is it just leaking coolant into the transmission? If it's just leaking then replace the seal and you'll be back in the dirt in less than an hour.

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Yes, you'll need to split the case to change the pump or the seal. Might-as-well do them both while your in there. Crank seals too.

You will need some specialty tools to get the job done... They will cost you about the same as having a mechanic do the job for you. The upside is you'll learn enough to not need a mechanic ever again!!

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I replaced all the seals in my cases on my 98 recently. First thing I will tell you is ONLY use OEM seals/gaskets on these bikes. I bought a complete gasket set and a complete seal set and wound up replacing them all again with an OEM set. The aftermarket stuff fit/sealed like junk.

You've got to take the motor out anyway to swap them; instead - Take the 98 motor out, take off the covers and clutch, cylinder, and then split the cases. To change the seal you need a pair of snap ring pliers. Its easy. It really truly looks complicated, but after having done it once now, it wouldn't be THAT bad to do again - Its a dumb design, but not impossible.

[edit] Oh yeah, I got my OEM seals/gaskets from my dealer, a la carte. I paid about $77 for all the seals, and gaskets needed to get the thing back together. That was LESS than buying a crappy aftermarket seal kit and a crappy aftermarket gasket kit. I just went through the fiches that are available for the bike and got the OEM part numbers that way.

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How about the "Suzuki" wrenches needed for the clutch basket and stator nut? I have tried everything. I would hate to get this far to only take it in to get done. Any ideas?

Got air tools available? I just used an impact in reverse to get mine off. Worked like a charm.

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Wow, I never realized that replacing a water pump seal on the '96 to 2000 RM250's was such a pain.

Moton Pro (and some others) sell a clutch hub tool that looks like a big set of vise grips. It's designed to grab the hub so you can take the nut off with an air wrench or a simple ratchet. It also works great when it's time to install the nut and torque it down. Any cycle shop should have one, or you can order one from the T store.

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