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What gearing are people using?

16 posts in this topic

1st what's the stock gearing? 2nd what gears do you all use? On my friends WR426 his 1st is real low and his 2nd is quite a bit higher. I stalled it a couple of time in 2nd and found that you have to be moving to use 2nd, with stock gearing of course.

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14/52T, plus mods seen in my signature.

Bill

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97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards , Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC.

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Stock is indeed 14/50. I love to ride in the tight woods (my friends call me a bushwacker) and found it too easy to stall in 1st when trying to chug through. To fix it, I went to a 13T front which works great in the woods but I think it goes too far because now the bike doesn't like to wheelie as much. As soon as the snow melts, I'm gonna put the 14 back on and do some math to figure out what size rear would be in between stock and what I have today.

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Yamahalic: With the 53 in the rear is 2nd more user friendly in tight wood and won't stall as easy? It seem as long as you keep moving your fine but, as soon as you slow down a little(in between a crawl and a steady pace) 2nd will stall. I dont like always shifting from 1st to 2nd and back. I would rather leave it in 2nd and ride on and only use 1st to go up a real steep hil or starting off.

696

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I think it is an individual thing. I went with 13 in the front for tight technical stuff combine with a some open area mixed in. It works fine for me and I can get the front end up. Gearing alone won't prevent you from stalling. I had to learn to feather the clutch a lot more than what I was accustomed to. Hydralic clutch may be in my future. I must be getting it right though because stalling is becoming less and less a problem for me.

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Bill,

Thanks for the ratios list. I have the same stalling problem others seem to have. I'm new to the WR world, just changing from an XR. The XR lugs better.

I think I'll try a 14/53 combination to combat the stalling and increase my ability to lug it in steep rocky areas.

Jerry

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Jerry

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I run 15/49 for dual sport with alot of street riding. 14/49 for tougher dual sport rides and 13/49 for tight trail riding. I just change the counter shaft sprocket.

Clark

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Heres some ratios:

14/50 3.57 (stock)

14/51 3.64

14/52 3.71

14/53 3.79

13/50 3.85 (just changing the counter shaft)

13/51 3.92

13/52 4.00

13/53 4.08

Hope this helps

Bill

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i was on 14/50

went 15/50. what a mistake! kept stalling & had no go.

went 13/50. kept changing gear.

10oz flywheel & magura juice clutch fitted.

now it doesn't stall. can go right down to zero, feather the clutch, fan the throttle etc. so...

back to 14/50. very happy.

recently. big improvement in my jetting & power from taff cam timing so i'm on 14/48.

Taffy

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I ride alot of tight trails in W.WA and this has helped the stall problem. Still doesn't lug like the XR, though. But with the power, suspension and other features, it is worth the extra money.My brother bought an 01 XR400 in August. He has ridden my 01WR acouple of times and now wishes that he had waited for one.

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I only ride in the woods on really never hit the top end of my bikes. So will a 13/50 let me stay in second and ride on or, should I go with a 14/53?

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I had the same experience as Taffy. With 13/50 it was killing my top end on the road (bike is dual sported). Went with a 10 oz. flywheel weight and back to 14/50 and am loving it!

Mike

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Interesting, my 98WR wears 14/50 with a small flywheel and WR timing (didn't care for YZ timing)for tight woods and hasn't stalled for at least twelve months. When the bike came back from the 98 ISDE it had 15/50 and got up to an honest 170ks very quickly, I'v considered going back to 15/50 to raise first gear for hills, second can be a bit high if the track is tight and first runs out of revs too easily. I find that by moderating the throttle against the clutch and rear brake I can get trials like control over the power delivery, really whips through the tight and windy. The only changes that may have effected power are a modified silencer and a reduced compression ratio. Reducing high speed compression damping on the forks probably made more difference for trail riding than you might think. When it comes to WRs Grunt is the guy behind the counter at the bike shop.

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