96-2010 DR650 LED Conversion

I decided to get rid of all of the standard bulbs on my bike.... if not for amp savings then for the durability of LEDs. It also seemed logical to me to install the electronic flasher instead of resistors so there will be an actual charging system gain for future power resources.

I've always disliked the position of the indicator panel on the DR650..... hiding there behind the throttle cables...:worthy: so I moved it to just in front of the crossbar with an aluminum bracket that I made and mounted on the forward handlebar clamp bolts.

I installed 3 standard LEDs in the panel. One each 74-G, 74-A and 74-B (green, amber, blue). They are daylight viewable but not eye piercing at night. I went with the brighter 74-WHP (white high power) LED for the instrument light. I did order the 74-CWHP3 (it has 3 HP LEDs) but it was crazy bright and the instrument about blinds you at night with this bulb. The 74-WHP gives a very nice white look and is much nicer than the stock bulb. I used a small amount of liquid electrical tape around each bulb base to socket joint after pushing them into position just to water proof and reduce vibration. Be sure to check that the bulb works before sealing them in since LEDs do have polarity.

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I used a 24 LED Red 1157 tail light bulb that has some forward facing LEDs for better reflection in the DRZ250 tail light assembly (P/N 1157-R24). The previous part numbers are from Superbrightleds.com. $1.19 for the STD's, $2.49 for the HP and $7.49 for the tail light bulb.

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I needed my single flasher indicator to work so I installed a Kuryakyn 4709 diode kit in the flasher indicator bulb circuit. I bought mine from Bikerhiway.com for $7. DennisKirk and many others stock these diode kits. I removed the headlight/number plate cowl and just followed the wires back from the indicator panel until it hit a plugged connector. On the main harness side of the connector I cut the light green w/gray dashes wire and the black w/gray dashes wire a ways back from the connector. (the wires actually change at the connector to black w/light green stripe and solid black on the instrument panel side of the connector. One of the clipped wires (doesn't matter which one) that lead to the instrument panel needs to be hooked to ground. I used the available black w/white stripe (ground) wire in the cowling connector group and hooked it to the black wire. The solid green wire that goes to the panel hooks to the blue wire on the diode kit. The other two red wires from the diode kit hook to the wiring harness side of the clipped green and black wires. Test your panel indicator.... if it doesn't light pull the bulb and spin it 180 degrees.

Now for the turn signals. I wanted a quality flexible shaft indicator that still stuck out a ways instead of the flush mount units. I went with the DRC MOTOLED 602 smoked lens flashers (P/N D45-60-208). I bought mine from wheelingcyclesupply.com for $39.95 a set. Not cheap but they are really nice units. I've gone through two sets of phillips aftermarket turn signals so the extra money is well spent IMO. I turned my ProMotoBillet rack flasher brackets around backwards to bring the flashers in closer to the fender. They are recessed enough to not break off but do stick out enough to get the attention of motorists behind me. The smoked lenses are pretty cool. The flashers have a nice long sheathed wire that I was able to run all the way up to the stock connectors under the seat so there is no spliced connections under the fender to get water in and corrode. I just cut the wires and soldered the stock flasher connectors onto the Motoled wires and then heat shrunk everything. Nicely plug and play for when you need to remove things. I used the Customled.com model ELFR-1 electronic flasher ($19.98). It is totally plug and play and fits in the stock rubber flasher holder. Easy! Now all I have to do is install a HID headlamp. I should have plenty of current capacity for heated grips and a vest after that. :thumbsup:

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Another fine job/write-up!:thumbsup:

Kind of reminds me when I was rebuilding my 460/truck,how custom do you want the motor/truck to be.It just very stopped!:worthy:

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Nice job and write-up!!!

One thing I did was to swap front turn signal brackets. This raises the lights to just under the handle bars.

Looks clean. Suzuki is going to hire you soon!

Another fine job/write-up!:thumbsup:

Kind of reminds me when I was rebuilding my 460/truck,how custom do you want the motor/truck to be.It just very stopped!:worthy:

I hear ya. It never ends.... but I love to tinker. Every single project I've taken on with the DR650 has been motivated by something I've read, and agreed with the concept, here on the DR forum. This is great because I always have someone else to blame when the wife starts using words like "obsessive compulsive", and other words I don't understand, at 11pm in the shop. :)

Nice job and write-up!!!

One thing I did was to swap front turn signal brackets. This raises the lights to just under the handle bars.

Thanks... Hey, that's a cool idea. :thumbsup: I'm never done because of people like you. :) I really need to get the LED project done so I can get going on mounting up the DRZ shock......Sheesh! :worthy:

Looks clean. Suzuki is going to hire you soon!

I was a mechanic in a couple different Suzuki shops back in the day but soon figured out someone else was making all the money. :thumbsup:

Looks good Rob.

Hmm..... I have a very similar set-up, but I only replaced the turn signal indicator light in the pilot display (left the hi-beam and neutral light indicators stock) with an LED/Diode setup (courtesy of Older & Slower), and I have the DRC LED tail/plate light and bracket from Keintech. I went with the V-LEDS Universal Electronic MC Flasher.

Flasher: http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Electronic-Flashers/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-p5189745-1-3.html

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LED pilot display indicator light from Older & Slower:

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No brakes, right signal on:

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Brakes on, right signal on:

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Front signals:

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I am just using the load resistor( for now) tuck behind the head light shroud.

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Yeah it blinks fast.

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Hey MX Rob,

I am going to change over to LED everything but head light.

Have diodes and resistors for the indicator, turn signals.

Getting ready to order tail light and indicator LEDs.

On my '08 the neutral and turn indicators are both green in color, clear bulb green lens although I have not pulled the bulb to confirm that.

When you did yours did you in fact place an amber LED behind a green lens, or was yours amber to start with.

I know the flashing is the difference but would rather have an amber turn indicator.

Yours is showing amber very well in the photos, was wondering if it was green to start with.

Alan

Hey MX Rob,

I am going to change over to LED everything but head light.

Have diodes and resistors for the indicator, turn signals.

Getting ready to order tail light and indicator LEDs.

On my '08 the neutral and turn indicators are both green in color, clear bulb green lens although I have not pulled the bulb to confirm that.

When you did yours did you in fact place an amber LED behind a green lens, or was yours amber to start with.

I know the flashing is the difference but would rather have an amber turn indicator.

Yours is showing amber very well in the photos, was wondering if it was green to start with.

Alan

Nope, Green, amber and blue lenses with matching color leds. That is strange about your lenses... my wife's 05 DR650 has Green, amber, blue lenses as well. Mine is a 99. You certainly want to match the led to the lens color (don't use white) It may be that an amber led would still produce amber light albeit a bit darker maybe? I'd order an amber led in addition to the two greens to give it a shot. Leds produce a spectrum specific light so it might work just fine. My Gold Wing has red running and brake light leds in the amber blinker housings. They run red except when the blinker is on. Not sure if you'd have the same results amber to green though.

Thanks Rob

Suzuki must have run out of amber lenses.

That was my thought to, order a green and an amber for the turn indicator, pull the bulb push in the amber led and place it across a battery to see what it does.

They are cheap enough for that.

I was also going to order a red on for the speedo. I had a 77 GS750 which had red lighting on the tach and speedo, very easy on the eyes at night.

Will post results, may be a while, still riding right now.

Alan

Thanks Rob

Suzuki must have run out of amber lenses.

That was my thought to, order a green and an amber for the turn indicator, pull the bulb push in the amber led and place it across a battery to see what it does.

They are cheap enough for that.

I was also going to order a red on for the speedo. I had a 77 GS750 which had red lighting on the tach and speedo, very easy on the eyes at night.

Will post results, may be a while, still riding right now.

Alan

Hmmm, never thought of a red instrument light... maybe even blue huh? I have a couple extra colored leds.... although not the higher powered ones. I might have to throw them in there and see if I like the looks. I can just order the higher powered one that looks best. :busted:

Geez Rob once again I'm following you down another rabbit hole! HA!

I like the looks of this... if I go with the red instrument LED is the high power brite enough or would you go back up to the hp3? It looks like you lose lumens on the colored vs the white ones.

Thanks once again for sharing,

Mike

Geez Rob once again I'm following you down another rabbit hole! HA!

LOL! Glad I could help keep you from being bored... :bonk:

I like the looks of this... if I go with the red instrument LED is the high power brite enough or would you go back up to the hp3? It looks like you lose lumens on the colored vs the white ones.

Thanks once again for sharing,

Mike

Stay tuned... I have blue and red hp and hp3's on order. The extra std colored led's that I have were obviously too dim. I'm thinking the HP's will be all that is required... even in the colored led... we shall see. :bonk:

Not to highjack, but I have a question about LEDs.

I replaced the huge stock tail light with the DRZ 250's smaller unit - this uses the standard 1157 incandescent bulb. I then installed Jesse's fender eliminator / LED tail light setup. Next, I spliced in a TailBlazer 100HD brake light modulator. This setup worked great.

Next, I replaced the 1157 bulb in the DRZ 250's brake light with a 32-LED 1157-style bulb. Now, with Jesse's LED tail/plate light and a LED bulb in the DRZ 250 tail light, the TailBlazer will not modulate.

Do I need an in-line resister between the brake lights and the TailBlazer modulator to fix this issue? If so, what size, and will I need to insulate it so it doesn't melt plastic parts around it (if it even gets hot)?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Do I need an in-line resister between the brake lights and the TailBlazer modulator to fix this issue? If so, what size, and will I need to insulate it so it doesn't melt plastic parts around it (if it even gets hot)?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Evidently the modulator you have is load based like the OEM turn signal flasher so the answer is yes to the resistor requirement. What level of resistance you will need is another story. You will need to figure the current requirements of the incandescent bulb as compared to the led and select the appropriate resistor to make up the difference or..... http://www.motogadget.de/en/m_stop.html

LOL! Glad I could help keep you from being bored... :bonk:

It's propably a good thing your still in Michigan....your wife would be wondering who the guy living in your shop was:D

Stay tuned... I have blue and red hp and hp3's on order. The extra std colored led's that I have were obviously too dim. I'm thinking the HP's will be all that is required... even in the colored led... we shall see. :bonk:

Looking forward to it!

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