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Manx man

Valve Adjustment Tools

14 posts in this topic

Does anyone know if you need to have the tension stopper tool in order to perform the valve adjustments? Or is having that tool just a way to make it easier?

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Does anyone know if you need to have the tension stopper tool in order to perform the valve adjustments? Or is having that tool just a way to make it easier?

No its not necessary. you can use a screwdriver and vise grips (to hold it in place) or remove the tensioner all together

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I bought the tool with the bike. It is sweet and simple however it is pricey. If you are planning on keeping the auto adjuster (as opposed to purchasing an after market manual version) then a dedicated tool is way better than the ad hoc screw driver/vise grips or similar routine IMO. To each his own I guess.

Good luck.

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I just use a screwdriver and either clamp it to the subframe or duct tape it if I cant find my clamp. :thumbsup:

I also will remove it if I can't find the duct tape either.

I certainly don't bother with a pricey tool!

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I use a screw driver, but I do not leave it on the bike.

Take the screw driver and turn it to remove all the tension, then give it a little extra twist to make the tensioner hold itself in the open position. I've never had a problem. The tensioner has never released itself while I was working on the bike. Ive done this about 10~15 times.

You will also need an impact gun to get off the cam bolts without spinning the cam.

I like to use the motion pro tool that holds the cam in place while tightening the cam bolts. (better alternative to a screw driver or impact to tighten bolts)

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I just remove the two 8mm allen head bolts that hold the tensioner onto the cylinder.

You will also need an impact gun to get off the cam bolts without spinning the cam.

You can do it without an impact, what I do is put an allen wrench on the bolt that's behind the inspection cover on the right hand side of the crank (and keep the crank from turning over), then I loosen both of the cam sprocket bolts with another allen wrench. I don't remove them completely at that point because you're kinda giving the bike a hug - standing on the right hand side holding the big allen wrench on the crank, with my left arm reaching over the bike loosening the cam sprocket bolts.

I loosen them a bit first, then I'll stand on the left hand side of the bike and remove them one at a time. I wouldn't want one of those bolts falling into the cases.

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You will need a 3/8" drive metric allen set. A piece of wire to tie the chain up.

Torque wrench with socket extension. A micrometer will help measure the shim.

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Take the screw driver and turn it to remove all the tension, then give it a little extra twist to make the tensioner hold itself in the open position. I've never had a problem.

Oh yeah, I started doing that too after someone told me about it. It's been so long that I'd forgotten about it!

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This is some great info. Im definately going to refer back to it when its time for my 08 checkup

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You will need a 3/8" drive metric allen set. A piece of wire to tie the chain up.

Torque wrench with socket extension. A micrometer will help measure the shim.

What he said.

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I just built my own manual cam chain tensioner. Total cost 50 cent. Alls you do is get a 6x60 metric bolt (threaded all the way) and a 6mm nut to replace the auto mechanism. The housing is already threaded it takes like 30 seconds to make it. Never have to worry about the spring breaking.

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When I did it, I used a multi tool screwdriver ... just push the flat head in far enough to turn the tensioner then when its turned in far enough push it in all the way ... the hex from the flat head tool was the exact size and held it in place until I was done

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