Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
e30M3

grease, assembly lube, anti-seize...

6 posts in this topic

Okay, got the new bike pulled about and working on properly greasing everything. On the steering head I have been a bad boy in the past and just torqued down the steering nuts while they were dry but reading the new manual (I am sure the old 426 manual says the same thing if I ever looked at it...) it says to use lithium soap based grease on the steering stem threads. Transworld website has a nifty how to spot that shows a nice clean red anti-sieze agent. I have looked at all of my local parts stores and bike shops and all the anti-sieze lubes are this gunky grey stuff.

I have read about the anti-sieze lubes and understand why they are think and grey but can I am now assuming I can just use a good bearing grease like maxima or bel-ray instead? I think it would be much easier to work with and also much "cleaner".

Any real world experience between the two? Just looking for info/advice and I am getting ready to put everything back together.

Oh, also, the lower nut (I could do a lot with that statement), one spot in the manual says to torque it, back it off, then litely tighten it. Another part just says to lightly tighten it? Is it important to have that initial torque setting to set the bearing or something? I don't have the proper tool (I don't think anyone does) so I don't think I really have choice but to put it on hand tight???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only real world experience I have with using grease instead of anti-seize comes from a friend of mine, that used axle grease on his car's lug nuts instead of anti-seize.

He lost 1 wheel on the highway, and 2 more were loose. There could be a few different culprits at work here, as he is not very mechanically inclined, but I would not interchange the two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, also, the lower nut (I could do a lot with that statement), one spot in the manual says to torque it, back it off, then litely tighten it. Another part just says to lightly tighten it? Is it important to have that initial torque setting to set the bearing or something? I don't have the proper tool (I don't think anyone does) so I don't think I really have choice but to put it on hand tight???

Pre-torquing the ring nut and rotating the stem several times is done so as to settle in and align the bearings squarely in the races. Torque used for this step is not particularly critical, just tighten it to roughly 25 ft/lb. I use a simple pair of "Channel-Lock" pliers in the case that I don't have a spanner the correct size.

Likewise, although somewhat more important the the pre-torque spec is, the 5 ft/lb spec for the final setup isn't terribly critical, either. Use your judgment, and get close.

Don't worry that the bearings feel loose at that point. They will tighten up once the crown nut is torqued over the top clamp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On any larger nut I just use a small dab of blue permatex loctite and it lubes the threads for torque, and keeps them from backing off. On small stuff I use the gray anti-seize.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gray anti-seize is OK. It requires no more than a tiny dab to accomplish the purpose at hand, which is to keep the nuts from galling the threads on the aluminum stem.

Grease will work as well. Speaking from long experience, axle grease had nothing whatsoever to do with the wheel problem mentioned earlier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I were you I would apply a little anti-seize on your rad shroud bolts. It's a PIA when one seizes in the tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0