Gray's stud

Gray, you mentioned in a post title "2009 Yz450f best exhaust?" that you run a stud and nut on one of the bolts holding the oil filter cover on. You did this in order to avoid having to move the header each oil change.

While that is a great idea what do you think of ALSO doing that on the oil drain bolt that always gets stripped. I do really like your ball bearing idea but I am too afraid I will screw it up. Putting a stud with some locktight in a pretapped hole sounds so easy a caveman (like me) could do it...

If you think that is reasonable, what lengh of stud did you use, I assume you use some type of washer between the cover and the nut and torque it to about the same setting??? Is locktight even necessary or should some anti-sieze lube be used in case I ever need to get the stud out. I am certainly not an engineer and only have some basic skills so any relative info would be much appreciated.

thanks.

The only negative regarding the use of a stud in the lower oil filter cover hole is that the stud would lack the enlarged shoulder that the OEM bolt has. This shoulder aids in centering the cover, which is important to the alignment of the oil feed passages in the cover to those in the case cover. I may be assigning more importance to that function than it deserves, but it merits a look.

That hole is open at the bottom, so the length of the threads on the inboard end of the stud would need to be carefully chosen to allow it to jam at the top of the hole threads, and yes, I would mount it with red Loc-Tite.

Another thing that solves this problem is using a Time-Sert or Heli-Coil in that spot to close off the drain hole. But frankly, the installation of such inserts is much easier to "screw up" that the insertion of the ball in the filter well. What part of it are you afraid of?

drilling mostly then getting the stake correct without just tearing up the case.

I am sure I could do it but in the back of my mind I would be hesitate during the entire procedure. I almost feel better finding a good mechanic to do a time-sert. I am really anal, to a fault. Even if I did an okay job I would be thinking in the back of my mind that it isn't perfect. I know, its crazy, but it's the truth:bonk:

To avoid errors in drilling, fit a piece of metal tubing over the drill bit so that 5/16" of the bit is all that extends beyond the tube. You can then drill no deeper than that, regardless.

You can avoid drilling altogether by using a 5/32" ball rather than a 3/16.

Staking is a good finishing touch, but not really necessary, given that the forces at work on the ball will actual tend to push it INTO the hole rather than out.

There's really nothing to worry about.

To avoid errors in drilling, fit a piece of metal tubing over the drill bit so that 5/16" of the bit is all that extends beyond the tube. You can then drill no deeper than that, regardless.

You can avoid drilling altogether by using a 5/32" ball rather than a 3/16.

Staking is a good finishing touch, but not really necessary, given that the forces at work on the ball will actual tend to push it INTO the hole rather than out.

There's really nothing to worry about.

Okay, here is a little bit of my crazy coming out. any advantage to the smaller / larger ball? I do assume drilling with then placing a larger ball will keep the ball from working down into the threaded channel for the bolt.

I wil start gather the needed stuff and will do this on my next oil change. Even better, I will practive on my 426 first before I do it on my '09 450:smirk:

any advantage to the smaller / larger ball? I do assume drilling with then placing a larger ball will keep the ball from working down into the threaded channel for the bolt.
The step created by the drill does completely eliminate that possibility, but the 5/32 ball should fit snugly enough not to move down on its own. In any case, the ball can only go until it contacts the bolt.

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