HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
CaptainKnobby

Threads coming out of oil drain hole?

25 posts in this topic

I was changing the oil in my 06 just awhile ago when I noticed something felt wrong when putting the drain bolt back in the hole when it did not seem to get snug.

I noticed it looked as if there was a spring in the hole. I looked at it closer and the threads were uncoiling out the drain hole:excuseme:.

I thought the threads were embeded in the mold of the motor and not wraped inside the hole.

How is one to fix this? It is the drain bolt under the right side footpeg (back brake pedal side).

I might note that I have an aftermarket drainplug with a magnet on the end but I have never had any issues when tighting or takeing it off until now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you aren't the original owner, probably some one put a helicoil in there to repair the threads in the past?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No.......I bought the bike new in Feburary of 2006 right off the floor. Never had any issues with the bolt til today.

I just noticed when putting the bolt back in that it would not tighten like it did the last time I changed the oil which was this past friday.

It is odd that the threads look like a spring coming out the hole.

The third thread in the front and on back are close together but I would bet if I pulled on the first thread it would unraveal the rest of them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to hear something even more odder. I pulled on the end of the thread that was at the end of the drain hole and as I suspected it uncoiled the rest of the threads in the drain hole.

So I pulled out the loose thread until it broke off and I seen some more threads in the middle of the drain hole so I took a small screwdriver and stuck it in the drain hole and picked out the end of the thread to get a hold of it and pulled it out.

I put the drain bolt in the hole and screwed it in and as I was turning it...........it felt kinda tight but was going in. It went in all the way and as soon as it seated to the case on the motor I stopped and give it just a little turn (barely) and it stayed.

I guess this will fix it until I change the oil again. It seems to be pretty tight, tight enough to where I think that the motor vibration will not cause it to work out. I didnt use a torque wrench but by the way it feels I believe it feels like it is torqued to over 10ft pounds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which drain bolt is it, left or right (under bike)? I've had the same problem with the left drain bolt on my 06 and 07, however both bikes were used when I got them. Also, make sure you didnt mix up the drain bolts when you put them back in. The right drain bolt is a tad larger than the left drain bolt. Hope this helps some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Which drain bolt is it, left or right (under bike)? I've had the same problem with the left drain bolt on my 06 and 07, however both bikes were used when I got them. Also, make sure you didnt mix up the drain bolts when you put them back in. The right drain bolt is a tad larger than the left drain bolt. Hope this helps some.

If you would read the thread!..... I stated it was the right drainbolt (crankcase) Clutchcover side.

And no I didnt mix the bolts up cause it would be about impossible to do that since both bolts are completely different in size (like a etheopian and Budda).

And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.

However the bolt is back in and seems to be tight and I believe it wil hold this time. I will have to see we I change the oil the next time and see if it will be hard to take out or thread back on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.

Seems unlikely, but maybe they use this type of thread insert from the factory (Grayracer might answer that) or it was somehow stripped when prepping the bike and fixed with a helicoil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the "spring" comming out can bend and not break its a thread insert, If it breaks when bent its the aluminum tearing out. Either way it is not a good idea to have any screw/plug in a condition that if it comes out you will loose your oil.

Even if you can get a bit of torque on it I would atleast safety wire it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If the "spring" comming out can bend and not break its a thread insert, If it breaks when bent its the aluminum tearing out. Either way it is not a good idea to have any screw/plug in a condition that if it comes out you will loose your oil.

Even if you can get a bit of torque on it I would atleast safety wire it

I saftey wired it somewhat but now I have washed the bike and cleaned it real good and took it to the basement and I will safety wire it better so it will not turn out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If its a hard metal its a heli coil if its aluminum its the actual threads (not sure how that would happen though),sounds liked somebody F'd up along the the way and tried to hide it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its not hard at all. When I took the thread out it broke into easy. If someone did mees up it took it 3 and a half years and a lot of oil changes to finally tear out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you would read the thread!..... I stated it was the right drainbolt (crankcase) Clutchcover side.

And no I didnt mix the bolts up cause it would be about impossible to do that since both bolts are completely different in size (like a etheopian and Budda).

And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.

However the bolt is back in and seems to be tight and I believe it wil hold this time. I will have to see we I change the oil the next time and see if it will be hard to take out or thread back on

Woa! Sorry just trying to help :worthy: And how many threads do we have asking bout the drain bolt mix up? I wouldnt chance anything when it comes to drain bolts but that's just me...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Its not hard at all. When I took the thread out it broke into easy. If someone did mees up it took it 3 and a half years and a lot of oil changes to finally tear out.

Last night I finished splitting my cases due to the same issue. I am taking it to a machine shop to have them put the insert in for me. Two years of over tightening the drain plug caused mine to pull the threads out as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You stripped the thread, plain and simple. The rear drain hole is an M10x1.25 thread. You will have to at least partially remove the engine from the frame to repair this, since the frame rail is in the way with the engine in place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same exact thing happened to a friend on an 07.

It was the first oil change after 5 hours and I know the guy wouldn't tight without a torque wrench (calibrated)

In fact he was not even at the stage of tightening but just make it snug and knew that something was wrong.

Went to the dealership the day after, got it inspected by a tech and Yamaha stepped up on new cases + labor, but like i said the bike was new

In your case you should at least give it a shot and have the damage inspected by a Yamaha dealer but the chances are pretty slim IMO...

So you're going to need an Helicoil insert

It's easy to install but to do a clean job it would be better ot have the cases splitted so that you don't have any chips from the drilling/tapping going into the cases

I know some guys don't even care and just drill and install the insert

You need to be prudent and take your time if you go that way

Drill at incremental depths and back out often to remove the chips

Same thing when tapping

Good luck !!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Same exact thing happened to a friend on an 07.

It was the first oil change after 5 hours and I know the guy wouldn't tight without a torque wrench (calibrated)

In fact he was not even at the stage of tightening but just make it snug and knew that something was wrong.

Went to the dealership the day after, got it inspected by a tech and Yamaha stepped up on new cases + labor, but like i said the bike was new

In your case you should at least give it a shot and have the damage inspected by a Yamaha dealer but the chances are pretty slim IMO...

So you're going to need an Helicoil insert

It's easy to install but to do a clean job it would be better ot have the cases splitted so that you don't have any chips from the drilling/tapping going into the cases

I know some guys don't even care and just drill and install the insert

You need to be prudent and take your time if you go that way

Drill at incremental depths and back out often to remove the chips

Same thing when tapping

Good luck !!!!

Good point! heres the shop tip o the day!...When you are drilling or tapping a hole like that pressurize the cases with either low pressure shop air or even a vacum cleaner exhaust. ..it will blow any chips out as you drill and tap....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You stripped the thread, plain and simple. The rear drain hole is an M10x1.25 thread. You will have to at least partially remove the engine from the frame to repair this, since the frame rail is in the way with the engine in place.

I ordered the Time-Sert application kit and it will be here tomorrow. I ordered the M10x1.25 kit for the drain hole bolt.

Which way will be the best to raise the motor enough to clear the frame rail to gain good acess to put the insert in? I dont want to split the cases but Iam going to take my time while drilling and tapping and clean the shaveings out.

I was just wondering which would be better> Take the motor out the frame or just some of the mount bolts and lift the motor up enough to gain acess the the drain hole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0