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Not all are going to be adjusted to 1 and 3/4 turns out. To adjust it, after you let off the throttle:

if the idle hangs high then drops to normal, you are too lean on the fuel screw - screw it out a little to richen it up until the it idles normally without hanging above idle or dropping below normal idle

if the idle drops below normal then rises to normal, you are too rich - screw it in a little to lean it out until it idles normally without dropping below normal or hanging above normal idle

This is one of those things you just have to play with for a little while to get the correct adjustment. The zip ty screw should make it a lot easier to adjust. Do you know how many turns out it was before you adjusted it to 1 3/4? When you say it is running like crap now, what are the symptoms? Let us know so that maybe we can help you out. Let us know what your MJ,PJ,PAJ,needle and position and are you running with stock exhaust, airbox lid removed, elevation etc.

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The one we are reffering to is the Pilot Screw on the bottom of the carb. What you are thinking of Kiwi is the Pilot Air Screw that replaces the stock Pilot Air Jet at the back (air box side) of the carb and you are right about screwing the PAS out would lean it out, but that is a different subject, for now at least. ?

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Check out the March addition of Motorcross Mag. It has about a 5 page article that tells you exactly how to adjust the screw. I had the same questions and the article helped ALOT. For starters, It tells you to run if for a bit never knew you needed to turn up the idle adjuster while you adjust the fuel screw. Recommends about 1800 rpm. It's a really helpful article. You can go to www.motorcrossactionmag.com and order it. Good Luck.

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