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truckjunky87

New to me '06 YZ450 - What to service first?

21 posts in this topic

I picked up an '06 YZ450, first bike in a long time. I've changed the oil and cleaned the air filter - anything else I should do before I put too many hours on it? I've read some threads saying to grease it - but grease what specifically?

Man this bike is fun!:worthy: I haven't been able to wipe this smile off my face in a week.:banana:

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HEY! nice bike...i just bought the same exact bike a few weeks ago my self..totaly bad ass bike!:worthy:

i recently took mine all apart to greese the steering neck bearings,swing arm and all linkage bearings...most of them still had some grease but not much..the only bearing that was totaly Fubar'd was the pivot bearing on the rear suspension linakage that the back of the straight links (looks like a big U) was bolted too...it was totaly rusted and all the needles were frozen...since i fixed that it rides like a totaly different bike...and dosnt creek any more:thumbsup:

other then that just keep up on oil and filters

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my 06 is still perfect with 150 hr, in 100 hours i had some rust in the bearings so regrease. steer tube bearing get water inside very easy and die.

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Grayracer has a bunch of tech tips on a sticky on common YZ issues. The short list for the '06 YZ450:

1. Upgrade your steering stem bearings to the new part #, '06 rusts;

2. Chain slide mod;

3. Oil Filter drain hole mod;

4. Jetting change 45/168 (relative to your riding area);

5. Use the right oil (no comment:bonk: );

That will keep you busy for awhile

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on the 06s some of them came with bad cam timing chains - they stretched too soon causing the chain to jump and much $$$$ in repair cost.

I highly advise checking the play in the cam chain.

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Grayracer has a bunch of tech tips on a sticky on common YZ issues. The short list for the '06 YZ450:

1. Upgrade your steering stem bearings to the new part #, '06 rusts;

This one caught my eye. I am still running the original bearings on my '06 - no rust present. However, my buddy's '08 came from the factory with bearings that were bone dry and which consequently gave up the ghost after just a few rides. YMMV I guess.

Anyway, back to the original question - I think it would be worthwhile checking the valve clearances when picking up a used bike with a somewhat unknown history.

The other thing you should do is check your spoke tension. They gradually loosen and I have thrown one before. Also check your rear sprocket bolts. They have a tendency to work loose. These are things that would obviously apply to any bike, but have been areas where I've had to pay extra attention on my '06 YZF.

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The chain issue seems to be more of a kinking problem than actual stretch, but the results are bad either way. If the bike has any time on it, just replace the chain.

While you are doing that, take the time to pull up the lifters one by one and note the shim sizes that are currently in it. If it ever actually does need to have the valves adjusted, you'll be able to tell what shims to buy without having to disassemble it further.

While greasing the steering head, replace the top bearing with the new design that includes an integrated inner seal. (PN 93332-00078-00, NOT 93332-00068-00)

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180 main 48 pilot....that bike wakes up big time with those jets! other than that be careful tightening the spokes, they strip really easy...

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While greasing the steering head, replace the top bearing with the new design that includes an integrated inner seal. (PN 93332-00078-00, NOT 93332-00068-00)

*makes a mental note to get updated part during next head service*

Thanks Gray.

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180 main 48 pilot....that bike wakes up big time with those jets!

The OP is in Utah. In all likelyhood he will need different (probably leaner) jetting than you.

[Edit] Beat by Gray.

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Its running a 155 main and 142 pilot - everything else in carb is stock spec.

I get some popping on decell that I can almost get rid of with the fuel mixture screw but it gives up 0-1/8 throttle response so I'm going to pick up a 145 pilot.

Grey - when you say the chain has a kinking problem are you talking the cam chain or the drive chain? both are mentioned earlier on.

I've put about 10 hours on it so far so I'm going to need to do some of the work mentioned before I get too many more on it - so far it has ran well.

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In order to need jets like that, I would have to be running U4e at or below sea level in 50 degree weather. I run 165/45 summer, and 168/45 winter.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3521488#post3521488

mine was SUPER lein from the showroom...those were the jets i found here on TT from burned back in the day...i always had a problem starting mine and after those jets went in the bike fired on one kick and the popping was gone...also i would guess another pony all the way through the powerband, maybe even 2 or so on top...goods specs man trust me :worthy:

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.. the popping was gone...
...a clear indication it's too rich.

If you're talking about the recommendations Eddie made very early on, remember that was an estimate based on a test he did in Colorado in the winter.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2750635#post2750635

A lot of people who went with a 170/48 or bigger that winter backed away from it as the weather warmed up. Looking at the jetting DB thread shows that.

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The chain issue seems to be more of a kinking problem than actual stretch, but the results are bad either way. If the bike has any time on it, just replace the chain.

I torn my '05 YZ450 down because my drive-chain let go and punched a hole in my case but while inside I found a number of "early catches" and the kinked cam chain was one of them.

IMG_3859.jpg

The result was some very unusual wear on the crank teeth, so I replaced them both. It'll be alot cheaper if you just have to swap the chain before it does this to your crank.

IMG_3865.jpg

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