Yamalube junk??

Who are these "others" who have compared them? Can you point to a published paper?
I tried it in my '03 450 early on, and took it from a 50wt to a mid 40 in just over two hours, so one of them would be me. My own samples of MCF have stayed in grade as long as 11 hours, although normally, I would never run it that long. People including members on this board have submitted UOA's here, to me personally, and elsewhere. No one has to believe any study if they choose not to; they, or you, can test your own oil.

Whether YL full syn was ever any good or not is now a moot point, because it isn't the same oil anymore. It's a new product, and we can all either wait and see, or test some ourselves, or ignore the whole thing. From my standpoint, whereas I had evidence that the old product was inferior, the new product is an unknown value, so my own opinion has moved from distrust to skepticism.

As far as my feathers being ruffled, don't imagine that it means that much to me. I have an affordable, convenient, highly effective oil to use, and I know it's one of the best available because I researched the question. It's really not important to me whether it's the best there is or not, and I'm not looking to replace it.

xr88 I am a Grandpa! Wanna race:p

My unscientific studies which is pretty much racing every weekend for the last 35yrs is that if you change your oil on a regular bases, as in every other ride which I do, just about any oil will do. Chances are heat and/or dirt will kill your engine before a oil breakdown issue...in my humble opinion.

On the other hand, in Nov I am doing the Baja 1k which means 18 or so hrs strait. I have been running rotella for years but for that I think I will spend a few extra bucks and go with synthetic. :thumbsup:

hell tea old man il race you bhahahaha,ive been schooled by some 50 year olds before theres a guy 53 years old here that races a yamaha 110 in pitbike class an he is the dirtiest rider ive ever rode against,i enjoy a good block pass every now an again

hell tea old man il race you bhahahaha,ive been schooled by some 50 year olds before theres a guy 53 years old here that races a yamaha 110 in pitbike class an he is the dirtiest rider ive ever rode against,i enjoy a good block pass every now an again
Because I read, write, and speak only English, it is unclear to me what you just said, but if it was what I think it was, I have 3 things to say in response:

  1. What will it prove regarding oil, specifically, or in general?
  2. How are you going to explain it if it's even close?
  3. I'm your Huckleberry (but I make the rules and pick the course)

:thumbsup:

If you ask my dads friend who works for Parts Canada what kind of oil he runs he'll say, "The slippery kind" :thumbsup:

Gray, I downloaded and studies that oil test. I noticed MANY charts and graphs. Oddly enough, someone might expect that in an oil test!

In your opinion, which graphs are most meaningful?

Gray, I downloaded and studies that oil test. I noticed MANY charts and graphs. Oddly enough, someone might expect that in an oil test!

In your opinion, which graphs are most meaningful?

I'd say they are all pretty important, except for price, and the zinc content comparison. ZDP is an "anti-wear" additive. These are more correctly called boundary lubricants, and become important at times when the oil film fails to keep the two parts moving over one another separated. It's an extremely important function, but ZDP is only one of several BL additives in use, and there are a number of newer moly compounds created for this purpose that are being used successfully.

My big deal has been the Viscosity retention test (D-6278) on page 9. As little as 5 years ago, this was an area where the majority of even premium oils were failing, simply because they weren't formulated to hold up in a transmission. Now, an increasingly larger number of oils are passing. If there is a reason to use a 40wt instead of a 30wt, the oil should stay a 40wt, don't you think?

Wear protection, gear performance, and high temp/shear are directly, mechanically meaningful, as is foaming tendency in a more secondary way. Then, oxidation and volatility. These two don't matter much unless the oil performs fairly poorly, or you run the oil longer than 1 or 2 rides, or you ride in extremes of heat.

Rust protection is only really meaningful to those who live in humid climates and store their bikes for several weeks at a time (which is probably quite a few people, eh?)

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