Back in business !!

Well i finally got a new woodruff key for my bike.i retorqued to 47 lbs and loctited it. i put 25 miles on it so far no problems yet knock on wood . my first key went at the 14 mile mark.

I would check it every so often.I had 110 miles on mine till it broke and think the flywheel was still seating.My dad said the old huskies were the same way.

If you torqued it down with red loctite on the taper and the thread don't bother checking ever again unless you suspect it failed. You are going to bend your pullers getting that flywheel off. :)

Indy,are you saying dont mess with it if you havent had any problems? I have almost 200 miles on mine,runs great.should I ever check it?

No problems here with 126 miles....anybody else checking or leave it alone until it becomes problematic? :D:).

I checked mine after 100 miles after it broke the first time then again after another 100 miles.No movement and i'm done checking.

Sorry if i confused Anyone. :)

SJW,

I think there were some under torqued units with some marginal taper fits. I checked mine after every ride and stopped worrying about it. I will check it once a year from now on.

WRF riders: I have been watching this flywheel shear on the forum for some time. I had old Huskys and Bultacos with massive aluminum flywheels. I never sheared a key or heard of one being sheared. How big/or heavy is the flywheel on the WRF and what size is the actual threaded end of the crank?

I just read "WOODRUFF KEY FAILURE AFTER LAPPING". I think I get the picture. I hope you guys can get it solved without replace the crank or the rotor. It sounds like a manufacturing problem. It may take some time to sort this out at the expense of the rider to different degrees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now