Grayracer Manual

Gray

I don't use my manual anymore; I just type in a topic and get your analysis. Perhaps you should hit Yamaha up to do their future manuals 'cuz basically they suck (well maybe that's harsh) but the competitions are a bit better:p

I prefer Yamaha's manuals to those from the aftermarket. Other than the apparent difficulty in translating Japanese to English, the information is more accurate. But everyone has their own opinion.

Yamaha's "Owner's Manual" for the YZ series is far better than those offered with some other bikes, and it nearly qualifies as a true service manual.

I have to give 1 ups for both the Zuk and the Red riders manuals:doh:

I have to give 1 ups for both the Zuk and the Red riders manuals:doh:

Really? I think the Yamaha manuals are much better than any of the Honda or Suzuki ones I've had, though it has been a few years since I have owned a Honda or Suzuki. There isn't much that cannot be found in the Yamaha manual, it spells out how to do most everything.

Yamis aren't bad but apparently they couldn't afford to pay a photographer to do 'real' pics in their instructions, spell out bolt sizes, etc. I have found the others a bit more user friendly

Bolt sizes are listed. Good drawings work better in many cases than photographs do, IMO, especially poorly lit and printed photographs.

The manual is pretty good except for the lack of "zoomed in" images that don't show things like seal lips or spacer ridges, grooves etc... A graracer513 index would be a good addition !!

At least the Torque Values are correct in the Yami manual :doh:

I love the yammi service manuals for the most part. I just rebuilt the trans on my 06 and that particular section of the manual could use some help. There was quite a bit of trial and error even following the manual step by step.

Bolt sizes are listed. Good drawings work better in many cases than photographs do, IMO, especially poorly lit and printed photographs.

+10000 - they get the point across way better!

Love the Yamaha Manuals too - between them and greyracer's manual - you guys can't do anything wrong.

Speaking of some of the things in the manual that are not clear (at least to my ignorant a$$), can someone explain the proper procedure for tightening the cylinder head bolts? What's the deal with the manual talking about torquing the head bolts and then turning them another 1/4 turn?

Speaking of some of the things in the manual that are not clear (at least to my ignorant a$$), can someone explain the proper procedure for tightening the cylinder head bolts? What's the deal with the manual talking about torquing the head bolts and then turning them another 1/4 turn?

Exactly what it says, torque the bolts to the torque it says in the order it says, then turn each one 1/4 turn extra in the order it says. I'm not sure why they tell you to do this, it probably has something to do with the gaskets squishing.

Grey sounds like a new part-time job oppty to me......like you have time huh? :doh::snore::lol:

Speaking of some of the things in the manual that are not clear (at least to my ignorant a$$), can someone explain the proper procedure for tightening the cylinder head bolts? What's the deal with the manual talking about torquing the head bolts and then turning them another 1/4 turn?

The process is called Angle Torquing.

The perceived problem is that thread friction can affect the accuracy of torque wrench readings at or near 25~30 ft/lbs to the extent that the actual clamping force on the head bolts can vary significantly. To deal with this, the approach goes like this:

  • The bolts are treated with a thread lube and tightened evenly to 22 ft/lb, which is adequate to pre-crush the head and base gaskets, but not the full torque load.
  • The bolts are then backed off, the retorqued to 14 ft/Lb. Now the head is lightly clamped at a torque load that is light enough to be very consistent from one bolt to the next, and the gaskets should be evenly compressed, so that the top end stack is sitting squarely on the case deck, and is evenly clamped at this point.
  • Then, the bolts are marked and rotated 1/4 turn at a time until each has been rotated one half turn farther. Since the threads will travel the same distance into the head on all four bolts, and they started from an identical point, the clamping tension between the threads and the base of the bolt head should be exactly the same in all 4 corners, even if the rotating torque required to turn the bolt that far is not.

In doing the head on the AL frames, the only way to regrease the bolts in between the two torquings is to tip the head out of place. I refuse to do that, and so I don't do the regrease on those unless the engine is on the bench. It's more important to me to keep the head right where it is.

I am, however, obsessive enough that I actually do the angle torque in 3 steps instead of two. :doh:

I don't know about the Yamaha bolts but Ford uses torque to yield bolts and are made to stretch, torque and then go 90 degrees twice, once the bolts are stretching the torque reading is not accurate, automotive, mainly Ford has been using that style for a while now and work very well, Ford says not to reuse the bolts. I don't see where Yamaha says not to reuse so it is probably different.

I love the yammi service manuals for the most part. I just rebuilt the trans on my 06 and that particular section of the manual could use some help. There was quite a bit of trial and error even following the manual step by step.

:doh:

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