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idamoh

08 WR450 Fork Valves

15 posts in this topic

I just recently revalved my base valves on my WR using Gold Valves, and felt compelled to post some pics and show part of the reason the suspension on the WR is not good.

The valve on the right is the stock WR valve. It actually uses that spring you see at the bottom of the valve to allow fork oil to flow through the valve. The pic on the left shows the Gold Valve and shim stack right below it. Race Tech had me remove that entire spring mess which placed all the suspension damping on the shim stack. The second pic shows how the stock WR valve goes together. There are only 4 shims (all the same size by the way) located below the valve on the stock WR base valve. Once again shame on Yamaha for putting this crap on our bikes:banghead:

Picture001.jpg

Picture002.jpg

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By the way I took her out for a little test this afternoon, and it is like night and day. No more bottoming on jumps, and she stays up when braking hard coming into corners. I am very pleased!!

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So did you install the recommended shim stack for your weight and style? Do you feel that you would go back and change anything? The reason I ask is I want to install one of these kits too and just don't want to have to take it apart more than once. Not that big of a deal if I do, however. Thanks!

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I am 6'6" and weight 250 pounds, so the soft WR suspension has been an issue since I bought it. I first changed out the springs to a .5 in the front and 6.7 in the rear. I was fairly happy with the rear, but nowhere near happy with the front. I decided to add fork oil to the max level without any noticeable results. At that point I knew I had to revalve the forks.

I was a little weary about having to take things apart again as well. I put in what Race TEch recommended on the low speed compression stack, because I didn't want things to be too stiff there. On the high speed compression stack I added an extra 24mm shim just to be on the safe side. I figured if it was a little stiff in the desert I could always turn my compression clickers out a little. It was easier than I thought. It took a total of about 3 hours to do everything.

All in all I am happy so far with the way she handles in the desert. It feels like she stays up better when braking into corners, and handles bumps and whoops really well. I remember with the old suspension I used to really compress the front end when braking into corners, and whoops used to really wear me out. I didn't feel as fatigued and felt faster through the whoops. I also just installed a GPR stabilizer , so I'm sure that helped as well.

I haven't had a chance to get to the track and test out the bottoming resistance on some jumps, but plan to soon!!

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Hi

I'm just incomming after my first run with my wr 450 -07 after I had the fork rebuild with DaveJ's base and midvalve kit. I must say that it was a huge diffrent at the frontfork now ,and I haven't adjust the clickers , they are in standard position. So later this week I will work with the rebound and comp clickers.

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I have read that the base valve spring looses tension over time and adding a 1mm shim under the spring with firm it up again like when new. I found my forks were great when new but then went bad after a few months.

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Is there a tutorial somewhere that shows how to install the new valve . I would like to do this mod also.cheers!

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I wonder if you could remove the spring all together and create a shim stack using the stock valve. It might take some experimenting to get it right, but cheaper than buying gold valves.

I have also heard of guys adding a shim at the bottom of the spring, but the spring loses tension again after few months and your back to square 1.

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I've just done this in the last 2 weeks

Yes the instruction as a little vague, and I thought I have the wrong kit or there were bits missing, to start with but it all fell into place with a bit of thought

Toss the big spring and the top hat shaped spacer away

Place one of the big thick washer from the Gold valve kit onto the base valve - to act a stop plate (stops the shims bending too far back)

Then build up you shim stack as per the RT recommendations

Then place on the gold valve (make sure you get it the right way up - there a recess for the check plate collar to locate in which goes towards the nut end)

Rest is just replace what came off - the small collar spacer (that the check plate rides up & down on)and the check plate, the very light spring, the cupped washer, and the small washers and finally the nut

Are you modding the mid valve to get rid of the compression shims inside the cartridge?

Had my first ride yesterday on the new forks and they are real good

On a side note, the stock springs are supposed to be 0.46kgm/mm - they actually measured 0.41kg/mm - no wonder it was soft. Fitted some 0.44kg/mm K-Tech springs, set oil level at 110mm (the Race tech way) and now no more bottoming. Still have about 3/4" of travel elft after yesterday.

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After purchasing gold valves, I decided to go with Smart Performance Phase 4 kit. Still have the gold valves new in the box. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.

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dumb question but how much $ is the phase 4 kit?

Call Dave....www.smartperformanceinc.com. Just ordered springs front and rear, phase 4 front and rear, Dave's fork and shock butter, and seals and it was incredibly affordable.

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