Turbo YZ

Just thinking here, don't you have to put the carb before the turbo?

It can go on either side, and locating it on either side has its own set of problems to deal with.

in this case, probably easier after the turbo and pressurize the system to offset the boost.

ill tell you what, when FI is the standard, i bet a lot more thumper turbo kits will be available. itll be so much easier.

in this case, probably easier after the turbo and pressurize the system to offset the boost.

ill tell you what, when FI is the standard, i bet a lot more thumper turbo kits will be available. itll be so much easier.

I wonder if anyone that owns one of those new FI "dirt bikes with training wheels":moon: has been boosted yet??

I wouldn't want to cut up a new bike to put turbo on a already fast bike. Unless I had lots of time and money ...but some people do...

You might be better off getting some mild pipes mandrell bent and building a fresh pipe to clean it up some. Once you have that mastered move on to the expesive stainless or titanium. What u have now may cause big trouble. I am not sure if Titanium can be welded without special wire in your machine. Mixing weld metals usually doesn't work. With stainless you could get it tig welded just about anywhere. Do all the fab work yourself tak weld it with some stailess wire then take it to a pro to TIG it up. I built headers for my 4x4 truck once, there is alot of info, tips and tricks posted online to help out. Like flooding the tube with argon gas so the inner joint isn't exposed to the atmoshpere while you are welding it to keep the inside as strong as the outside. Unfortunately yours may blow apart after a few heat up and cool down cycles. Plus with all the extra HP you'll be pounding out it will likely be going down once or twice the strength of the head pipe is needed for that reason to.

Wouldn't a simple N02 fogger be cheaper and have the same effect if dialed in proper?

Good luck making stuff go fast as hell is fun as hell.

Don't worry about nay sayers. Guys are turbo charging everything from snowmobiles to sport bikes. I know a guy who turbo a Honda Big Red once for the hell of it. Wasn't fancy but it worked. My neighbor turbo'd his Yamaha 4 stroke snowmobile, cost $15G but it will climb mountains like nothing. Take your time don't be scared to re-work stuff or start over if its not right.

Don't worry about nay sayers. Guys are turbo charging everything from snowmobiles to sport bikes. I know a guy who turbo a Honda Big Red once for the hell of it. Wasn't fancy but it worked. My neighbor turbo'd his Yamaha 4 stroke snowmobile, cost $15G but it will climb mountains like nothing. Take your time don't be scared to re-work stuff or start over if its not right.

I have a supercharged yami 4 stroke. its a kick! just over 230 horse @ 11 or 12 pounds of boost. stock compression on pump gas. its flawless.

I could only read the first couple pages before I got annoyed but as it sits this thing will never run right. You have to have an airbox for this kind of turbo set up. Like greyracer said before you have to equalize the pressure in the float bowls.

I commend you for trying to take on a project like this but it will never run!

At least never run right......

Good luck

Give us an update in about a year or so. It might be a good time for the rest of us to buy stock in a piston manufacturer, you're gonna be eating them up!

im awar "as it sits it will never run". its not even close to being done yet. im also awar of how to make the carb work. and i do not need an airbox, just a boost line off of the charge tube and a rising rate fuel regulator. and when you say "float bowls" i hope you mean float bowl. before you go and make a post like that you really should read the whole thread

whats hes tryin to say is, if you dont have equal pressure in the vent lines gas is just goin pour out of them.

Quote: I wonder if anyone that owns one of those new FI "dirt bikes with training wheels" has been boosted yet??

Look at this RMZ450015.jpg

Would expanding the oil tank help these bikes live longer? Or add an oil cooler to keep things cooler?? And I would think oil changes would be frequent.

this is not a dry sump engine. and if you fill it to full of oil you'll blow seals. a oil cooler would be a good idea. and oil will be changed quite often

I wasn't sure about the oil tank on the newer bikes. But I do know turbo's like to cook oil.

Quote: I wonder if anyone that owns one of those new FI "dirt bikes with training wheels" has been boosted yet??

Look at this RMZ450015.jpg

HOLY $#!* that is crazy looking where is the rear tire and swingarm? Is that a 2 moto bike without the ski out front?

Quote: I wonder if anyone that owns one of those new FI "dirt bikes with training wheels" has been boosted yet??

Look at this RMZ450015.jpg

Oh and by "dirt bike with training wheels" I was talking about the new YFZ450R!

this is not a dry sump engine. and if you fill it to full of oil you'll blow seals.
It actually IS a dry sump engine, as are all YZF's. The "tank" is located in the cavity forward of the actual crankcase, and it has both a feed and a return oil pump.

It is possible to increase the oil capacity by adding an auxiliary tank externally, and that would be beneficial, but the fact that the feed oil reservoir is internal to the engine makes it a bit of work to get it to function as it should.

It will not, BTW, blow any seals if you over fill it, but it will over oil the cylinder, smoke, and belch oil from the breather.

What do these engines typically run in the way of oil pressure?

If its low, and this guy manages to build boost and hold it some damn how, it might fry the turbo, as well as the returning oil.

Quote: I wonder if anyone that owns one of those new FI "dirt bikes with training wheels" has been boosted yet??

Look at this RMZ450015.jpg

i would love to see more pics and video of that beast!!!

It actually IS a dry sump engine, as are all YZF's. The "tank" is located in the cavity forward of the actual crankcase, and it has both a feed and a return oil pump.

It is possible to increase the oil capacity by adding an auxiliary tank externally, and that would be beneficial, but the fact that the feed oil reservoir is internal to the engine makes it a bit of work to get it to function as it should.

It will not, BTW, blow any seals if you over fill it, but it will over oil the cylinder, smoke, and belch oil from the breather.

i didnt know that! that explains why you have to start the engine up to get the dipstick to read after a oil change. i never even thought about that. i dont see a plausable way to make it hold more oil. i filled my bike up with oil this morning. i put about a quart and 1/4 in it. it should be about right. i got all the hoses on my carb fixed up. only problem is none of the vents have barbs. so idk if the hoses will hold on.

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