why do i have a neutral switch?

01 WR426

I destroyed the treads on my oil drain bolt so I'm pulling the engine and taking it to a machine shop to have a sleeve put in, but that's a different story. To remove the engine the manual says to remove the neutral switch. Neutral switch? If I don't have neutral light why do I have a neutral switch?

You can heli-coil the drain plug hole with the motor in the frame...I did mine that way. Just put some grease on the drill to catch the chips...

Now, on to your question: Te neutral switch alters the timing whe the bike is in gear (I forget if it advances or retards) to make it easier to start in gear.

Yep, leave the engine in the frame.

Too late. Engine is already out of the frame. Also, there is a slot cut down the side of the bolt-hole threads to allow all the oil to drain out. A heli-coil would block this slot and not allow all the oil out of the engine. I know not all the oil comes out anyway so this is really a matter of preferance, but I'm going to have the machine shop drill a hole in the side of the sleeve to allow all the oil to drain.

Te neutral switch alters the timing whe the bike is in gear (I forget if it advances or retards) to make it easier to start in gear.

My bike's still impossible to start in gear.

After looking at it closer I realised it not only detects neutral, but it detects all gears. In addition to the starting thing, I'm gussing it feeds the gearing info to the CDI to adjust the spark for engine load. This engine rocks.

My bike's still impossible to start in gear.

After looking at it closer I realised it not only detects neutral, but it detects all gears. In addition to the starting thing, I'm gussing it feeds the gearing info to the CDI to adjust the spark for engine load. This engine rocks.

You're right...the engine rocks, but it's not quite that advanced. The curve is the same no matter what gear you are in. The switch only detects if you are in gear or in neutral.

One of the reasons that these bikes are so hard to start in gear is that you really have to get the piston moving to carry it through the intake and compression strokes. The extra drag of the clutch when you are in gear and pulling the lever takes away energy from the piston. Both my 444 and my boy's 250 are almost impossible to start in gear, but light off easily when in neutral.

You're right...the engine rocks, but it's not quite that advanced. The curve is the same no matter what gear you are in. The switch only detects if you are in gear or in neutral.

One of the reasons that these bikes are so hard to start in gear is that you really have to get the piston moving to carry it through the intake and compression strokes. The extra drag of the clutch when you are in gear and pulling the lever takes away energy from the piston. Both my 444 and my boy's 250 are almost impossible to start in gear, but light off easily when in neutral.

Well that's a little disappointing. The switch has a separate contact for each gear, so I assumed that it was using all that info. The motor still rocks. And it weighs so much less than my XR650L engine, and it makes more power. Not that the XRL is any kind of bike to compare it to, I'm just sayin.

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