Two WR450 observations

Some 450 owners have complained about their bikes not starting with the e start, but they start right up with the kicker. I think I have the answer. Up until now I have used the e start for all starting, even in very cold weather. After rejetting (160 MJ, 48 PJ) it started pretty good in very cold weather, but I had been making sure the battery was charged well. Because I had a defective turn signal switch it took me quite a while to find the problem and my battery was running low. Using the e start it just wouldn’t start up, so I decided to give it a kick. VROOOMMM. Since the starting and lighting systems are independent of the ignition system it had to be something else. I believe the problem is that if the battery is a little low or the weather very cold or jetting if off quite a bit the E starter can’t get the RPM up high enough for the decompression to release so the fire doesn’t want to light it up. Give it a swift kick, you have gas, air, and spark as with the e start, but now you have compression since you reached the RPM level that kicks out the decompressing. Make any sense?

After rejetting the bike ran much better, the snorkel was out , I was using an old style vortip which worked well on my 426, but there was still some rumbling and minor sputter down low. I hadn’t done the gray wire mod yet since on my 426 it didn’t seem to do anything. But I decided to do it and see if it made any difference. OMG, it is running so smooth now I can’t believe it. I rewired it so I could but a switch in and switch it back and forth to see how much difference it made. I didn’t get time to put the switch in line yet. I plan to put it in and test it further, and if disconnecting the gray wire it was what made change in my bikes performance, I’d suggest you do it if you haven’t done it yet.

Let us know the results!

Inquiring minds want to know.

The E-Start (happy-button) is handy, but you can definately get more rotational speed with a swift kick. I found that mine cold starts easiest if I run the e-start button a few revolutions to get a fresh charge in the cylinder and then one kick to light off.

When stalled on a nasty sidehill, after 2 hours of flat-out racing, the happy-button will be wonderful!

Guys are you using the master off button when you are not driving you bikes? Maybe there is some electricity consumption that kills the battery...

Same deal with mine. Will not start cold with e-start. Turn it over a few times the kick, starts right up. Once it is warm no problem, e-start works fine. I have ther throttle stop cut, exaust baffle out, airbox baffle out 160 main 48 pilot and I have a 72 starter jet to try out (not installed). I will have to get the grey wire unhooked and see what a difference it makes. Sabin, I shut off the master power every time. The dealership said that the charging system does not charge enough to keep the battery charged up fully. The recomend using the kicker and saving the happy button for when you need it. Race restart button? That is what they said. ---Mike

Guys are you using the master off button when you are not driving you bikes? Maybe there is some electricity consumption that kills the battery...

The starter on mine turns the engine over just fine, I'm just saying that the kick starter can provide a quicker spin.

Perhaps it won't even be an issue when I have the jetting worked out, but for not I figure why put the wear on the starter motor when my leg works just fine? I want the e-start for trail use, not cold starts.

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