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soccermike7

pictural tutorial request: '08 and '09 carburator!

7 posts in this topic

Hey everyone, I'm going to pick up a new 08 or 09 wr450 this spring, and along with it i'm going to order from TT the JD jet kit, pro billet insert, (maybe TT AIS kit), & zipty fuel screw. should I cut down the stock throttle stop or order one? i'm concerned the threads will get messed up (and the cut end may rust)

From the new frame it appears as though more work is required to get to the carb and many advocate removing the rear suspension, etc (see below)

If i am correct the stock leak jet is 60, and dropping that down to 50 or so should help the throttle response. Some say you can get to the needle and the main/pilot without all that work. Should i drop the leak jet down while doing the rest or will the other changes + o-ring make it a non-issue. If i leave it, I SHOULD be able to keep the carb relatively in place on the bike. correct?

Back to the subject of the title: could someone make a picture tutorial similar to the one found here: (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309069)

for what to remove to get the carb loose on an aluminum framed bike?

the following list of "what to do" was obtained here: (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=604828)

"-Remove seat, side covers, and tank.

-Remove the lower bolts of the sub frame and the muffler bolts. (leave the muffler on)

-loosen air boot band clamp at the carb.

-remove the lower hose to the air box (vent hose)

-Slightly loosen upper subframe bolt and swing the rear end up.

-remove the rear shock

-remove the throttle cables

-remove the hot start cable at the lever (leave the cable attached to the carb it makes it easier i think)

-loosten the band clamp on the other side of the carb.

-remove the carb and work your magic.

I have done it a few times, it takes like and honest 15-20 min, it takes a little more disassembly but it is the least frustrating way to work on the carb." - mvryder

And if you do, please IM me about it :)

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I'd say buy a yz throttle stop, it's cheap and it wouldn't be worth the hassle of trying to cut the wr screw. As far as the tutorial, you already got all you really need, the instructions are accurate, and the pictures from the other thread are all you need. It can be a bit of work, but it's not impossible, it's actually good practice and will help you to get to know your bike better. Grease the rear wheel bearings and shock/linkage while you're there, get a six pack of cold ones, play some music in the garage and have fun!.

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+2 on the replace instead of cutting the throttle stop.

Swapping a leak jet on the alloy framed bikes is more difficult with the carb on the bike. Pull the carb. I suggest instead of the leak jet, get a Merge adjustable one. Then you can easily make leak jet changes trail/track side instead of pull the float bowl off.

Do not buy an alloy fuel screw like the zip ty. Get either a Merge, Kouba, James Dean or Scotts. These are either brass or stainless and are much better made. I prefer the Merge myself.

Also, if you have the carb off, I rec. a stiffer AP spring over the oring as it is a longer lasting solution. This must be done 'on the bench'.

Yes, the needle, pilot and main can easily be done on the bike in all of two minutes. However, if the carb is on the bench, might as well do all the changes at once where it is easy to get at everything. Follow the instructions of the parts you are going to install to the letter, keep notes of what was in, what you changed and any settings.

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Do not buy an alloy fuel screw like the zip ty.

Hey William the almighty, :):banghead:

What are the issues with the alloy fuel screws?

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Just replaced the fuel screw on my 08. All I can say is what a total pain in the arse!!!! I love the WR but not for how easy that frame is to work around :)

In the end I took most of the back end off the bike to get to the carb. Love the swinging the subframe up trick though!

Just wait till you need to get the cam cover off...

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Ok, well when I get my bike I will follow these the best I can. I'm not concerned about tearing into the carb itself, I have a good understanding how it's built now.

Only thing i'm not sure of (and I don't know if having the bike in front of me will help, i'm just trying to think in advance so when I do get it, I can proceed without questions) is the location of the subframe bolt

"-Slightly loosen upper subframe bolt and swing the rear end up"

If anyone can just run out and snap a pic, draw an arrow in MS PAINT -- well I would be ecstatic!:)

well, not really but I'd be very appreciative:thumbsup:

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Ok, well when I get my bike I will follow these the best I can. I'm not concerned about tearing into the carb itself, I have a good understanding how it's built now.

Only thing i'm not sure of (and I don't know if having the bike in front of me will help, i'm just trying to think in advance so when I do get it, I can proceed without questions) is the location of the subframe bolt

"-Slightly loosen upper subframe bolt and swing the rear end up"

If anyone can just run out and snap a pic, draw an arrow in MS PAINT -- well I would be ecstatic!:)

well, not really but I'd be very appreciative:thumbsup:

That bolt is really easy to find, just remove the seat and it will be there. Just follow the subframe rails back to the bike's frame and you'll see it, it's not hidden or anything.

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